Best jetting guide ever

[stephen]

Read this!!! To all struggling with jetting

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Rebuilding your Top End

1. First off, pull everything out, Clean the motor, pipe and carb as much as you can because you do not want any dirt particles to fall into your bottom end upon disassembly. Also clean out an area that you will be working on your quad and lay down a towel below your quad so if any small parts are dropped, they won’t become lost - it will also give you a clean place to temporarily place parts.
2. Now start taking off the seat, gas tank, and any other body parts that might cause an obstruction while disassembling your top end.
3. Its now time to remove your cylinder. Start by removing your pipe, Base bolts and any other thing that may cause obstruction.
4. As you probably noticed by now - the motor and the other areas around my engine are quite dirty, it was my mistake of not cleaning it before the teardown, please do not make that same mistake. Anyway, you have also probably notice that my piston is quite scared - giving an excellent explanation of why I only had 110 PSI before the disassembly.
5. Ok, now you have successfully taken apart your top-end. Get a top end kit, bore and hone the cylinder (if needed) and get the correct size piston and rings.
6. All right, once you have gotten all your parts back in you can start assembling the motor... But first, here are some steps in doing so.
7. Start by removing your old piston and replacing it with the new one, take your 2-stroke oil and use your fingers to apply the oil to your piston pin, rings, piston walls (inside and out) and piston clips. Once you get the new piston on, take the cylinder and coat the walls (using your fingers) with 2-stroke oil. Make sure your piston rings are aligned with the pinholes and in there specific place, (REMEMBER TO APPLY YOUR BASE GASKET) and start CAREFULLY sliding your cylinder over the piston...Be carful not to let the rings pop out of their place. To check and make sure they are aligned with pinholes, you look through your intake ports and see if everything checks.
8. Once you have the cylinder on, you now take your base nuts and in a crisscross pattern, you screw them on to a little past finger tight. Check everything and make sure it’s all correct, then start tightening - again in a crisscross pattern till you get them very snug, I believe its 15-20FT/LBS to be exact.
9. Take the cylinder head (REMEMBER TO APPLY YOUR COPPER HEAD GASKET, and slide it over your cylinder. Take your head nuts and screw them on a little past finger tight. See that everything is right and in its place, then (again) in a criss cross pattern, start tightening your head nuts. Tighten them to 20FT/LBS. Screw in your spark plug but keep the plug cap disconnected for now.
10. Its now time to install your reed cage (REMEBER TO APPLY THE REED CAGE GASKET) and carb. Once you have all those on, take the Pipe and install that ALONG WITH THE GASKET. Your quad should now start to look like a living thing again. If you find any other small things, 'undone', now is the time to connect, or attach them (IE: Plug cap, throttle cable, clutch cable, etc.).
11. Start piecing back together, the body (Tank, plastics, seat, etc.). Once everything is back together, WITH GAS IN THE TANK, it is now time to see if you can get the beast running.

If you successfully get your quad running, (which should not be too hard) then give your self a pat on the back and head inside for a nice cold drink.

Following all this up, it is crucial to see that you properly break in your motor. There have been many posts on this procedure in the past so read through those before putting any time on your motor.

Well Fellas' I hope this will help you in rebuilding your motors in the future.

Double wide Foot pegs

1. First off, you are going to need an extra set of pegs. I got mine off eBay for 30 buck's shipped.
2. Mark the pegs with a magic marker. What you are trying to do is to cut off the mounting area of the pegs.
3. Get a sawzall or a hacksaw if you have to and cut off the mounting area of the pegs (A sawzall will make it much easier because the pegs are made of hardened steel)
4. After you have cut off the mounting area of the pegs, you will now have to find a way of mounting them. You have a couple choices of how to mount the extra set of pegs. If you have removed the stock heel guard's you can use steel bolts as a way of mounting them or you can weld them. If you decide to use bolts you have to be careful not to over torque because the pegs will bend. Whatever way you decided to mount them make sure you put your extra set towards the rear wheels. If you put them on the front, it will make it more difficult to get to the shifter or brake.
5. This step is -OPTIONAL-. Chances are the extra set of pegs you get are not going to have the same wear on them that you have on your stock pegs. To make them look a little better, you can take off your stock pegs and paint them along with the new set with Krylon Fusion paint.

Rejet your Carburetor

Start by first cleaning the outside of the carburetor while it is on the bike. You do not want any dirt getting into the carburetor.

Depending on what adjustments need to be made, you may or may not need to remove the carburetor from the engine. Often you can just loosen the clamps and turn the carb in the intake boots enough to gain access to the float bowl screws and jets. Other times you will need to remove the cap to change the slide or needle clips positions. I removed the carb from the bike by removing the throttle cable from the TORS unit.

1. Start by removing the float bowl screws.
2. Once the bowl is off you will see a large brass jet in the middle of the carb. This is the main jet. Just below it, down in the tube is the pilot jet. In addition, you will see the floats and float valve assembly. Make sure this area is clean and free of any dirt. You can spray it down with a carb cleaner if dirty.
3. Using a 6 mm socket remove the main jet plastic slash guard and washer. Don’t loosen the washer that is still stuck on the end of the needle jet.
4. Now, using a small flat blade screwdriver, remove the pilot jet. Be careful and use a good fitting screwdriver. You do not want to damage it. You can see the main jet, splashguard and washer, as well as the pilot jet. Just install your new jets and re-install them back into the carburetor.
5. To adjust the mixture screw lightly turn it in (clockwise) until lightly seated then back it out (counter clockwise) 1 1/4 ~ 1 1/2 turns out
6. To check the float level use a ruler or measuring tape to check the float height. For this just lay the level on the gasket surface area and measure to the top of the float with the metal tang just touching the float valve (not compressing it) the stock float level is 20mm-21.5mm. If it needs adjustment carefully, bend the metal tang that touches the float vale to raise or lower the float level. In my example, the floats are 21mm.
7. Now with the easy parts out of the way you may need to make a needle clip adjustment. For this, you need to remove the cap/TORS throttle control unit from the carb. To remove the throttle cable from the slide, you need to use you fingers and compress the slide spring then hold it back by clamping softly onto the cable with a pair of needle nose pliers. Then the cable retainer can be removed. Often just tipping it up side down will allow it to fall out. Once the retainer is removed, the cable can then be pushed down and to the side to disconnect the slide. In my example, I have already removed the spring just to show how the retainer hold the cable into place.
8. Next, remove the two screws that fasten down the needle retainer. In addition, remove the needle and washers; notice the vent hole in the slide. Make sure, when you replace this retainer, the open side of the retainer is over this vent hole so you do not block it.
9. Remove the washers from the needle. Now you can adjust the needle clip position. In my example, the clip is in the second spot (second leanest). The higher the clip (on the big end) the leaner the mixture is. The lower the clip the richer the mixture
10. After you have repositioned the clip, re-install the washers on either side of the clip and install the needle back into the slide.
11. Next, install the retainer (remember to line up the vent hole).
12. Install the spring over the cable.
13. Hook the cable to the retainer in the slide
14. Re-install the cable retainer and release the spring.
15. Make sure when putting the slide back into the throttle slide bore that the cutaway on the throttle slide is facing towards the front of the carb (the big end) if it’s installed backward the throttle will be stuck open and the engine will rev extremely high when started.
16. After you have the carb back on and running, you will need to fine-tune the mixture screw to get the best throttle response. Once you have it set, you adjust the idle speed with the idle speed screw located on top of the TORS unit. To adjust it you will need to remove the seat and turn the knob either by hand or with a screwdriver.

Getting rid of those nasty wires

This works for 88-02 model blasters. I am not sure about the 03-05 models.

1. The white wire with the red stripe that is coming out of the cdi box goes to the white wire with red stripe coming from the stator wiring
2. The black wire with the red stripe coming from the cdi goes to the black wire with the red stripe coming from the stator.
3. The solid black wire coming from the cdi goes to the black wire at the stator and it will need a wire spliced into it going to the coil and nothing else... Remove all the other ground points!!!
4. The solid orange wire coming from the cdi goes directly to the coil under the gas tank
5. The black wire with the white stripe is the kill wire... When it is touching nothing, the engine will run. *** You have to touch ground and it will kill the spark***
6. That leaves you with a yellow wire with a red stripe coming from the stator (this is the lighting coil wire). Just cap it off and cover it so it can not touch any other bare wire or any chassis points *** You don’t want it to touch anything grounded or any other wires*** or you can just remove the lighting coil from the stator completely

Any wiring other than this can be removed and is not needed for the engine to run.

All of this is good for removing at least 2 pounds of dead weight maybe even more (light, voltage regulator, lighting coil, tors control unit and excess wiring), and it’s a lot less wiring to go through if you ever have a problem.

How to Bleed 03-05 Brakes

Materials needed:

DOT 4 brake fluid, and a 8mm wrench and a second person helps a lot too or at least with +5 5/8 a-arms.... lol

Steps:

1. Fill master cylinder up with DOT 4
2. If new brake lines, unscrew both bleeder screws until fluid comes out (If old lines, just bleeding brakes, disregard this step).
3. Pump lever 7-10 times and HOLD it in on the last time. Keep holding!
4. While HOLDING the brakes lever or pedal in unscrew 1 bleeder until fluid comes out, then tighten it up, then do the next while still holding in the lever or pedal.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 as necessary until the brakes work well, but if you do it right it should only take about three tries or less.

 

[scottishblaster]

wow good site thanks

 

[Blasterboy46]

I have never seen the retainers around the needle clip.

 

[Jcalloway]

This sight will help me a ton.

 

[MercMenace]

The site linked here appears to be dead.

 

[Blaaster]

Not surprising the link is about 5 years old!

 

[MercMenace]

It's stickied that's why i brought it up