The temp is like 85 and I dont have a problem at all it works better with it off....im not sure about the clip...where should that be...
And oil injects itself
The temp is like 85 and I dont have a problem at all it works better with it off....im not sure about the clip...where should that be...
To ensure that the correct AFR is delivered to the engine one must do all of the following.
Leak test, often.
Set float level.
Clean all jets/passages in carb.
Set idle.
Clean air filter.
Make sure that there are no leaks/blockages in either exhaust and inlet passages, including carb nipple and cap.
Check the fuel flows freely through float bowl drain whilst the engine is running.
Check tank vent for blockage.
Make sure the is no flooding.
The float level should 20 - 21.5 on a stock carb, now set the idle as follows.
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
You need not touch the air screw again, except marginally if it bogs when giving it throttle.
The middle clip is the most common place on the needle.
If that is a DMC header pipe the you are way too lean with a #230 main, the pipe alone calls for a #260.
The temp is like 85 and I dont have a problem at all it works better with it off....im not sure about the clip...where should that be...
Okay um Im not sure on what kind of air filter...so I have a problem since I have more power with it off? ?Clip should be in the middle. If it runs better with the lid off it alludes that you have a problem of being rich, it could be in part to the warm temps combined with a high elevation??? causing it to be rich. I'm not an expert on jetting, so maybe someone else can chime in on that. Did you check the float levels? Also what kind of air filter and you might have put too much oil on it. How does it idle, does the idle screw make much difference? I know it seems that taking the lid off just fixes your problem, but if whatever is causing you to run rich changes than it will be rebuild time before you know it!
.so I have a problem since I have more power with it off? ?
Running a richer mixture will make it run cooler.
Getting super hot is possibly that you are running way too lean, or have an air leak.
Leak test and plug chop before you ride it again.
There is no such thing as more or less combustion, the air/fuel ratio must be correct to provide an optimum burn.
Too lean a mix will create excessive heat within the combustion chamber which will fry the piston.
Too rich a mix will not allow the fuel charge to completely burn and power will suffer.
As stated before a mix just on the wrong side of lean will produce awesome power, but the piston will be subjected to excessive heat and melt.
Was it getting "super hot" before or after you removed the lid ?
Even totally bone stock, if you remove the lid you have to increase the main jet.
I suggest you look at this: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/jetting-101-everything-explained.1625/
Two strokes are very picky with their air/fuel ratio. As they go from slightly rich to "perfect", power will increase slightly and all is good. As you go from perfect to lean(er) power will increase and so will exhaust temps. Go lean, power will drop off very little but exhaust temps will shoot up drasticly. You would be looking at 1200* to 1400*+.
Did you ever list what jets you have in it? Now would be a good time to clean the carb, set the float level, ensure float needle isn't leaking and write jet sizes/needle clip posistion down.
What kind of fuel, oil, and plug are you running?
That main jet number doesn't compute. Doesnt match a Mikuni nor Kehein.
I suggest doing a plug chop with the lid on and either post a pic or tell us what it looks like. Also do a leak down test.
Not sure how hot it runs, but around 200*F is normal.
If you not gonna do plug chops just sell the bike now an get out of the hobby, plug chops are mandatory to figure out your jetting, an proper jetting is mandatory to the life of your bike, but if your to ignorant to do it, then that bike deserves a owner that will treat it rightSorry its a 230 my phone changed it...and I will just have to do a rebuild im not doing a plug chop