Adjusting a 35mm air striker?

turbowrenchhead

turbowrenchhead

Member
Jul 13, 2011
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It fired up on the third kick. It sounds nice. However the idle is too low. I tried maxing out the idle screw, no luck. Tried maxing out the cable, same results.
How does one adjust the small screw by the air filter.
I have misplaced the extra jets I bought with the carb. Too much sh*t in the garage, needs some cleaning.
 
for further help we'll need more info
where did this 35 come from ???
new ??? another bike ???
what jets are in it ???
chances are the jetting in it is too rich for our bikes, including the pilot jet, needle and main
the "small screw near the air filter" is the air screw, start by turning it in till it lightly bottoms out, then back it out 1 1/2 turns to start, then adjust till it idles the highest, then adjust idle screw to desired idle rpm's
if the highest idle of the air screw is.......under 1 turn out, get bigger pilot,
if over 2 turns out = smaller pilot

this will help..............

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/jetting-101-everything-explained-1625/
 
I had a similar issue with a brand spanking new 35 A/S. As Awk said see what pilot is in there, i believe i have a 45 in mine and i have some good motor work!
I also took that sh*tty ass plastic idle screw out and got the metal one it was cheap and for the life of me I can't remember where I got that from. That solved my lack of idle issue.
 
Its a new carb I purchased off of ebay (Mc Dermott Enterprises LLC). I don't remember what sizes are in there but I told them to put what ken recommend.
I put the air screw 1 1/2 turns out from bottoming out. I have not tried turning it out further.
 
Don't go over 2.5 turns! Mine is happy at 2 turns out and now it's cold out i am at 1.75 out. Watch that plastic idle screw, it likes to shave off pieces that get stuck on the slide!
 
Just chiming in, Carb specs from my build

45 pilot
Air screw 1.5 turns out
155 main
Needle at middle clip (CEL needle)

Open up the carb and be sure the jets are what they are supposed to be.
 
Took the carb off and I found my extra jets. There was a 168 main and a 68 pilot in it. I tired a 52 pilot and a 158 main, no change at all. My local dealer has some that are lower yet. I have to pick them up today sometime and try them. If that doesn't work then I am going suspect that I have a leak and I will have to build a leakdown tester.
 
Your extra jets were in the carb???

I would leak test that puppy before i tried to do anything bro, just trying to look out for your new top end! then I would Start with a 45 pilot, and maybe that 158 main needle on third clip-I also had to have that stupid plastic airscrew all the way in for any kind of idle.

where u located??
 
do u know what needle is in there?....the most popular needle to use in these carbs is defently the CEL....and those jets still seem abit big for that motor...im using a 48 pilot and a 152 main(i think) lol...and shes runs perrrrrfect
 
Right now I have a 45 pilot and a 155 main. I just built a leak down tester and found a small leak at the reed gasket. I pulled it off and siliconed boths sides of the gasket. I'm going to let it sit a little while to set and I will retest.
I do not know what needle is in there. How would I be able to tell what it is? What does CEL stand for?
 
You'll have to take the top cap off the carb and remove the needle, it has letters on the side to check, Mine came with a DGH, I put in a CEL it is a tad leaner needle and seem to smooth out the 1/2-3/4 throttle position.

Even with an airleak, you should be able to adjust the idle speed up and down.

With the carb off the quad and the throttle cable hooked up, look through the carb opening being careful not to put tension on the cable, there should be a gap of about 1/16-1/8" opening (you should see light through the carb). If you can't achieve this I'd replace that plastic idle screw with a metal one and try again. If still issues , I suggest trying a new throttle cable, if that is new already, then it has to be the pilot circut.
 
When I was at ace putting the tester together I picked up a stainless 30mm long screw for the idle set. Its the same length but it should push slide open further because there is not point on the end.
Right now I'm putting a 6" widening and shock conversion kit on the front while the silicone sets. I have spent many many hours on this thing. Its starting to wear on me.
 
The metal screw i bought is the same length as the plastic one but has the point on the end too. I know what it feels like to be a wits end. I've been there manym times with my blasty but this forum, got me through every one!
 
When I pulled the reeds out the gasket looked less then perfect so I scraped it off and installed a new one. Did the leak test and it was leaking pretty good at the top and bottom of the gasket. I took it off and coated both sides with silicone. I put the torpedo heater on it and let it sit for a couple of hours. Installed the tester and it drops 1/3 of a pound in 5 minutes. There is a very tiny leak where I siliconed but now on the LH side of the reed gasket. What is the best way to seal this thing? I put the 52 pilot in and a 158 main anticipating the cold weather soon coming. it still won't idle! Damnit! There is a D6K needle in it. Now I did notice if I hold the throttle ever so slightly with my thumb it will idle and when I moved the idle screw in and out it will change the idle. Bad cable?? Its new off of ebay so I would think its ok. I've been at this thing since 4pm to 12:30 pm. Most of that was spent on the widening kit. It needed customizing. I didn't like the way it sat when it the stock holes. I sloted the upper mounts so I could adjust camber and caster. Now the wheels look right. I also snipped off the top hole on the shock mount. I think it looks better this way.
 
you still need to go lower on that pilot, holding the throttle open slightly is adding the needed air the rich pilot needs for idle
usually only the main needs adjusted for temp and altitude changes

the cable is not your problem
you should not have to fool with the cable because that carb actually has a idle adjustment screw
i use the cable to lift the slide cause these pj's do not have idle screws, just some sh*tty choke knob adjustment that adds extra fuel for idle adjustments

i'm running a 34pj, and have a 45 pilot, dgh needle, 155main for summer, and 162 main in cooler months

try the 48, then 45 pilots and i bet that gets you in range on the airscrew and will idle just fine
 
Ok I put the 45 pilot and the 155 main back in now, still no change. I'm running out of ideas. It still has that tiny leak that let out 1/3 of a pd of air over 5 minutes. I would think that its not enough to effect the idle on the carb. I'm starting to think I have a bad carb.
 
I had this problem and the fix was to remove the spring from the idle screw then it will adjust in far enough to let it idle. good luck man. You can thank sicivicdude for that info. he hooked me up in busco. damn redneck genius. lol
 
I have a bad carb! I took the pilot out and it still made no change. I took apart the carb again and forced air through the pilot system. I could feel air in the throat more when there was no pilot in there. When I put the pilot in then you had to use about 30psi before you feel air. The hole in the throat by the main is extremely tiny.Maybe this one had a casting problem, who knows.
 
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