I am new to the thread. I bought my son a stock '99 Blaster for Christmas last year. The top-end had supposedly just been rebuilt just prior to my purchase. Last week I noticed it was leaking oil from the crankcase. Also noticed it might be coming out of the exhaust port. It starts right up and runs fine but I know I need to fix this issue. Also noticing the exhaust is smokey. It's light blue/white. Worried motor is running lean and that brings me to my question: Since I plan to open the bottom up to replace crank gasket/sealant, what else should I do to that might be preventative maintenance or would be a good idea since I'm in there? I guess what I am asking is what all would you do if it were yours and you had the time to DIY over the next couple of weeks? Open to suggestions on best rebuild kits as well if you have ideas. Thanks - Jim
99 Blaster Engine Rebuild (seeking advice)
- Thread starter James F Holt
- Start date
I would clean it good. Then figure out the leak.it should be tranny oil.as thats the only part of engine that takes oil.is it leaking around sproket side.or clutch cover.area.its important to determine where.as long as it's not leaking were the 2 case halfs meet in the center your good.every thing else can be resealed without splitting cases.the white smoke could be clutch side crank seal.a leakdown test could confirm that before disassembly
First thing to do is testing. A leakdown test will determin an air leak, which a crank seal on the clutch side will suck trans oil, which burns white and stinks bad. Which crank seal replacement is good maintenance.
next do a compression test with a quality gauge, Craftsman being the cheapest. less than 120 means rebuild time.
IF you rebuild have the bore and piston measured for wear/clearance. IF you need a piston, don't cheap out, get it bored. from your description I don't think you need a rebuil, just crank seals. TIP: the markings on seal face you when installed. Lubricate seals. I actually pack them with grease. You MUST use a Blaster flywheel puller, no jaw puller. Collar + keyway must be sealed also on clutch side
Inspect clutch, file basket fingers if grooved bad. Inspect counter balancer closely rivets/rubbers inside. Failure will cause MAJOR damage
next do a compression test with a quality gauge, Craftsman being the cheapest. less than 120 means rebuild time.
IF you rebuild have the bore and piston measured for wear/clearance. IF you need a piston, don't cheap out, get it bored. from your description I don't think you need a rebuil, just crank seals. TIP: the markings on seal face you when installed. Lubricate seals. I actually pack them with grease. You MUST use a Blaster flywheel puller, no jaw puller. Collar + keyway must be sealed also on clutch side
Inspect clutch, file basket fingers if grooved bad. Inspect counter balancer closely rivets/rubbers inside. Failure will cause MAJOR damage
Awesome coaching. Thank you all. I bought a Blaster leak down kit last week. Will clean the motor up, run that and a compression test and report back once i know where the leak is from and what compression looks like. Thanks again!
I would have to second the bearings and seals vote. As long as you're in there, you may as well knock them out. Crank bearings aren't the cheapest, but well worth it. Last thing you want to do is get it sealed up only to burn up a bottom end.
