+4 timing mod?

gizzy2014

Rippin' Hard
Jul 22, 2012
1,468
39
85
dickinson ND
hey i have searched and searched for a thread on this but cant find one, is there one? is it a how-to?

Anyway is this worth doing to a stock motor?
I plan to get a port done eventually just don't have the money right now.
 
Here is a link to Vito's site. They sell a woodruff key that has a +4 timing advance built in if you don't want to modify your stator plate; they also sell adjustable plates, flywheel pullers and lots of other go fast goodies for the Blaster.

IGNITION :: Blaster ::...
 
ok well for the time being i am not going to do this, as it runs great and i dont need to worry more about detonation happening
 
Well I hope I didn't scare you away from trying this. I haven't done it personally but it can be done for cheap and is easily reversible. Stock Blasters are seriously de-tuned from the factory and can safely handle a lot of performance modifications as long as you maintain them properly.
 
Well I hope I didn't scare you away from trying this. I haven't done it personally but it can be done for cheap and is easily reversible. Stock Blasters are seriously de-tuned from the factory and can safely handle a lot of performance modifications as long as you maintain them properly.

no u didnt scare me, i will probably do it at some point just dont have the need yet, although i really wanna try to get it to the point of running with my friends stock 400ex :D idk if i ever will get there but being close would be nice.
 
Just finally did the timing mod!! :)I really don't know why i waited so long. I used a round file i use to sharpen my chain saw with, and a little elbow grease. I personally feel the difference. Seems like power band kicks in sooner and pulls better the whole way through.. I've only made it to third gear so far. I will be going out riding soon and see how things go.. I will update again later. Also doing a plug chop to be safe.. One more thing but its of topic but i added the 5" wheel spacers on the front and they are actually made better than what i thought. Bike seems allot more stable. I'm only worried if ball joints are going to wear prematurely. Looks like there putting more stress on them..
 
Its relatively easy..if you don't like it just put it back to stock.. i made specific marks on mine so i know exactly where I'm at.. There's a good vid on here in the diy to show you how to do it.. Best thing is its a free mod..I:I
 
Slotted the plate on the blaster and was nice improvement low to mid with no noticeable loss on top. Would probably help a bone stock blaster.

Some might say the key will shear, but have one on the Banshee and it didn't shear when it puked a rod bearing and locked up. But slotting is FREE.
 
How much of a noticeable power gain is there?

As previously stated, advancing the timing will not produce any more power.

What will happen is that the power you have will come on earlier at a lower rev.

You may experience a little loss in the high register of the pipe.

If you read rthe following article it will fill you in.



http://justyamahard350.com/articles/eric.htm

Here is an an excerpt from it.

AFFECTS OF THE IGNITION TIMING

Here is how changes in the static ignition timing affects the power band of a Japanese dirt bike. Advancing the timing will make the power band hit harder in the mid range but fall flat on top end. Advancing the timing gives the flame front in the combustion chamber, adequate time to travel across the chamber to form a great pressure rise. The rapid pressure rise contributes to a power band's "Hit". In some cases the pressure rise can be so great that it causes an audible pinging noise from the engine. As the engine rpm increases, the pressure in the cylinder becomes so great that pumping losses occur to the piston. That is why engines with too much spark advance or too high of a compression ratio, run flat at high rpm.

Retarding the timing will make the power band smoother in the mid-range and give more top end over rev. When the spark fires closer to TDC, the pressure rise in the cylinder isn't as great. The emphasis is on gaining more degrees of retard at high rpm. This causes a shift of the heat from the cylinder to the pipe. This can prevent the piston from melting at high rpm, but the biggest benefit is how the heat affects the tuning in the pipe. When the temperature rises, the velocity of the waves in the pipe increases. At high rpm this can cause a closer synchronization between the returning compression wave and the piston speed. This effectively extends the rpm peak of the pipe.