anyone know if the pilot screw will be the right size? also i have the needle in the middle is that good to start with ?
I have a .5inch spacer with boyesen power reeds fmf pipe heavy bore with wiseco with the oko 30mm.Im running 45pilot and 158 main with needle in 2nd slot.So far mine is running pretty lean.Just ordered a 55 pilot and a 165 main.Float level is right at the gasket and crimped the feul stop to make it engage faster to make sure the bowl is filling asap.Im about 800ft above see level in dry hot climate.Also seems like this carb is craving for more air.Stock airfilter box seems to be resticting things a little at the boot.
I have a .5inch spacer with boyesen power reeds fmf pipe heavy bore with wiseco with the oko 30mm.Im running 45pilot and 158 main with needle in 2nd slot.So far mine is running pretty lean.Just ordered a 55 pilot and a 165 main.Float level is right at the gasket and crimped the feul stop to make it engage faster to make sure the bowl is filling asap.Im about 800ft above see level in dry hot climate.Also seems like this carb is craving for more air.Stock airfilter box seems to be resticting things a little at the boot.
Good start, Not sure what a heavy bore is, or the crimpped feul stop thing, But Im can say, That your float should be measured to 19mm. You should start with that before trying to jet or you will be chasing jetting.
The pilot either too lean or too rich is determined by the air screw measurement, If the air screw is 2 or more turns out, then your pilot is too rich (as you are letting more air in the further out the screw is turned.) If your air screw is less than 1 turn out you should increase your pilot by one size( as you are increasing the feul mix that the idle needs).
I think you may be very close to where you need to be, with the mods you have listed, which is basically stock motor, with a FMF pipe and boysen reeds. Boring the motor isn't really going to require a larger jet. Hell from a stock motor to a 240 kit most guys are only one jet size from each other.
Yeah lol heavy bore as I dont remember how much I bored it over but its almost at its limit.I took my calipers out and measured and its about 19mm fuel right at the rim of the bowl.I am also running half inch spacer so it may be affecting fuel mixture just a tad so I had to bump it up a little.I like to see smoke comming out the exhaust.If it aint smoking its blowing.And another thing I noticed after I give it a couple of revs its slow to come back to idle like its leaning out.I double and tripple checked for air leaks and its air tight and sealed plus it did not do this with the mikuni.I am still learning the kihien jetting as Im use to the mikuni.I think the 55 and 165 should be pretty close just a tad on the rich side where I prefer it while running a hotter plug.With the air box its pretty resricted where the boot bends around the rear shock and into the air box.And more so with the spacer and larger carb putting more of a crimp in the intake.If you take your air filter off you will see what I meen.I can hear it starving for air.
Performance is not sacrificed to the younger riders out there that chop there plugs up.Us older guys are pretty wize.
Please explain how to crimp the fuel stop to make it engage faster, you lost me here!:-
Just adjusted the fuel stop to engage faster to let fuel into the float bowl.Just gives me peice of mind that Im getting the most of the fuel delivery.Just bent the tabs so there is no slop.Im into scale rc aircraft and all that dialling things to the t is just part of the hobby.I:I
Yeah lol heavy bore as I dont remember how much I bored it over but its almost at its limit.I took my calipers out and measured and its about 19mm fuel right at the rim of the bowl.I am also running half inch spacer so it may be affecting fuel mixture just a tad so I had to bump it up a little.I like to see smoke comming out the exhaust.If it aint smoking its blowing.And another thing I noticed after I give it a couple of revs its slow to come back to idle like its leaning out.I double and tripple checked for air leaks and its air tight and sealed plus it did not do this with the mikuni.I am still learning the kihien jetting as Im use to the mikuni.I think the 55 and 165 should be pretty close just a tad on the rich side where I prefer it while running a hotter plug.With the air box its pretty resricted where the boot bends around the rear shock and into the air box.And more so with the spacer and larger carb putting more of a crimp in the intake.If you take your air filter off you will see what I meen.I can hear it starving for air.
Needle, 2nd from the top or from the bottom? Bottom I hope.
I raised the needle( clip one notch down) one notch from center to let more fuel in I may pute back to center when I get the new jet sizes.It gets hot in my area so I keep it on the rich side. Plus it last a lot longer between rebuilds.Performance is not sacrificed to the younger riders out there that chop there plugs up. Us older guys are pretty wize.
Please explain how to crimp the fuel stop to make it engage faster, you lost me here!
Just adjusted the fuel stop to engage faster to let fuel into the float bowl.Just gives me peice of mind that Im getting the most of the fuel delivery.Just bent the tabs so there is no slop.Im into scale rc aircraft and all that dialling things to the t is just part of the hobby.I:I
Its just common sence.Ive had 2 strokes for over 20 years.Or ive just tuned and worked on them so much that Im just familiar with them idk8-|
I do know mine is running strong enouph the clutch cant handle it.If you guys have any advice on that please pm me on that one.Ive changed plates and pretty much the whole assembly and it slips when I romp it.Im running heavy duty springs rated for 140hp.May try running 7 plates and ridding the thick plate that has the suppressin ring in it.
Boring the motor isn't really going to require a larger jet. Hell from a stock motor to a 240 kit most guys are only one jet size from each other..
Maybe you are running the wrong oil in the tranny.
I can understand why you feel that I am picking on you, and maybe I am, but for good reason.
Some of your methods are unconventional, and some of them are very, very wrong, not only for 2 strokes, but for any motor.
I am concerned that someone with little knowledge will try some of your remedies with dire consequences.
A 2 stroke is a 2 stroke, old school or not, and with todays aftermarket strap ons, cannot, and I say again, cannot and should not be tuned by ear, or by the amount of smoke that it blows!
And as to respect, is is given in relation to your information that you post.
Ok I see.Read my post and tell me what is dire consequence.Or better yet read the manual and relate everything I have said and tell me how its wrong.If you have a question by all meens ask I will do my best to explain if its not making sence to you.I may be overkill on my set up but its not wrong. its a 2 stroke if any thing its not precise thats why they dont make them no more?There is nothing unconventional about it.I tune motercycles to air craft. air craft has a diafram thats the only difference.Blaster wont run upside down?You can call me a redneck and I will agree and so are most people that run a pit crew.Im just a little ahead of you like I said I can slow down and explain if you would like.(Pull the bowl off the carb with it still in the bike.PS TURN THE FUEL PETCOCK OFF?Now that its off push the float all the way up so it thinks its full and shuts the feul stop.Now turn on the fuel and release the float slow and let the gas drain until you see the secondary start dumping fuel.Now you understand why I adjusted this.I heard rumor that these carbs were known to run the bowl ouf of fuel this is why I did this.And it was leaning out after reveing(after throttle was closed it did not come back to idle dont know how to say it but like it was lean and it wanted to rev down slow.So thought float blowl maybe low hents why I did this adjustment.)But its more efficient no need to perform this Im just a precision freek as I just tune to where I know its going to last.With aircraft same thing just a whole bunch more variables with altitude temp aircraft orientation.And you cant just do it and ride you have to do it by memory.You dont get it I know but its not relevant to what jet size to start with any way.I said what jets to use if its wrong tell me.
So this is the correct way to set the float level. Not in my book!
Do you now see why I am concerned!
I can see that you are set in your ways, and nothing I, or others say will convince you that tuning a 2 stroke today is now quite a fine art.
Hell from a stock motor to a 240 kit most guys are only one jet size from each other.
Yeah I understand.Ive had my blaster for some time.It was just a frame and a bunch of parts in a little bucket that I built from scratch.Its set up mx style but trail riding in mind.Ive even got an it 490.Heard it was the better of the years so Im not going to dump crazy amount of money into this little motor.Id rather just ballance the crank on the 490 and build it up pretty nice with an after market cdi or newer yz cdi for crisp throttle Still thinking on it.I will problubly just get a frame off ebay and take it in and do it right.I do know mine is running strong enouph the clutch cant handle it.If you guys have any advice on that please pm me on that one.Ive changed plates and pretty much the whole assembly and it slips when I romp it.Im running heavy duty springs rated for 140hp.May try running 7 plates and ridding the thick plate that has the suppressin ring in it.