2002 Yamaha Blaster need help with upgrades!!
- Thread starter Huntl3y20
- Start date
That all depends on how much $$$ you want to spend. A Full exhaust and a Unifilter is a good place to start. The Jetting will need adjusted accordingly to the Mods.
Go over it well first. Inspect all parts for wear, Do a leakdown test, and then get a good plan for what you want to do to it.
Skipping those steps can cost you more $$$, and can possibly get you hurt.
Go over it well first. Inspect all parts for wear, Do a leakdown test, and then get a good plan for what you want to do to it.
Skipping those steps can cost you more $$$, and can possibly get you hurt.
Don't forget stance. In my opinion Blasters are ridiculously too tight in stance and I rolled mine the first time I went riding. The result of that (and getting hit by someone else by playing a game) was an avulsion fracture that put me out of wrestling for 6 weeks and a near concussion. Still a nagging injury, don't mean to ramble but deff widen it....spacers can be found on eBay for like $60 all around I think
I would start with a decent pipe, mod airbox, rejetting (after a leak test of course), then flip those front wheels and spacers in the rear, for extra width.
Then I would extend the swingarm by 4", it looks much better and handles much better too! (Note: this does make it a bit harder to wheelie)
Then, some port work, polish exhaust, and do some intake and transfer port cleanup and shaping.
I raised my exhast post a bit, and enlarged it slightly.
With some work, the blaster engine can make some scary power.
In the end, JUST HAVE FUN!!!
Then I would extend the swingarm by 4", it looks much better and handles much better too! (Note: this does make it a bit harder to wheelie)
Then, some port work, polish exhaust, and do some intake and transfer port cleanup and shaping.
I raised my exhast post a bit, and enlarged it slightly.
With some work, the blaster engine can make some scary power.
In the end, JUST HAVE FUN!!!
pipe is a must, another good cheap mod that i did was a offset degree key (key way) it was only 20 bucks but you will need to buy a fly wheel puller $10-15, reeds, i like a uni air filter over k&n i dont like more of a chance of dirt to get into my engine. remove lid and get outer wears air box cover-$25 i bought a dyno jet kit $50 so i have a wide range of jets and a new needle. but with just the pipe, degree key, reeds my clutch was slipping so i had to get a clutch kit, i got a tusk heavy duty clutch kit $30-45 came with heavy duty spring, and all the plates. i would also recommend a oil block off kit again pretty cheap.
Save your money on a degree key, you can do it for free with about 6 strokes of a little round file, and it is adjustable from stock plus/minus whatever you need.
blaaster are u referring to rotating your stator plate? filing a bit to make room for the rotation of the stator plate? i read about it long after i put the degree key in. and on that note as far as timing goes do u happen to know how far the aftermarket key advances your timing?
yguy21s22, post: 721137, member: 20350"]blaaster are u referring to rotating your stator plate? filing a bit to make room for the rotation of the stator plate? i read about it long after i put the degree key in. and on that note as far as timing goes do u happen to know how far the aftermarket key advances your timing?[/quote]
Supposedly 4 degrees...but like blaaster said doing it yourself is free and easy
Supposedly 4 degrees...but like blaaster said doing it yourself is free and easy
Timing can be found in the manual, I am on my iPad and do not have that info on it.
Filing the stator plate 3mm advances the timing 4 deg.
Filing the stator plate 3mm advances the timing 4 deg.