I live in south Florida, 8ft above sea level. Outside temp is usually low 80s to mid 90s, during summer it'll hit 100 on the occasion
2001 Yamaha blaster won't start HELP PLEASE!!!
- Thread starter Chrisdel2001
- Start date
The jets I'll mess with when I get my bike started because it ran for a good 6 months perfectly fine I just need to get it started again
If it were me I would start at ground zero and check everything.
Compression test, leakdown test.
Gas cap vent tube open, cap venting proper. Clean petcock, if lots of crud, clean tank too.
Complete carb clean. Start by using float drain tube held up by carb, opening drain, fuel will rise to level that float is shutting off at (petcock must be on). Comepletly dissasemble carb, including pilot jet, emulsion tube, air screw. I prefer to soak in Berrmans carb dip, tho can or two of spray may work. Be sure you can blow compressed air through ALL passages, and that you can see through pilot and main jet, holes on side of emusion tube/main jet holder are all open.
Be sure float needle seat is clean and needle valve doesn't have any grooves in it. Set float level. Very critical, there is only 1.5mm tolerance.
Next be sure air filter is clean AND dry ( didn't go through bunch of water did you?)
While carb is off, use flashlight to inspect reeds. No chips, frays, cracks, sealing tight?
Check all wire connections are clean and tight. Be sure coil mount is clean, bare, shiny metal.
Dielectric grease is good addition to all electrical connections.
Spark should be fat blue, not lazy yellow.
Install NEW plug. BTW, what does old plug look like?
If I forgot anything, someone will add to this.
Compression test, leakdown test.
Gas cap vent tube open, cap venting proper. Clean petcock, if lots of crud, clean tank too.
Complete carb clean. Start by using float drain tube held up by carb, opening drain, fuel will rise to level that float is shutting off at (petcock must be on). Comepletly dissasemble carb, including pilot jet, emulsion tube, air screw. I prefer to soak in Berrmans carb dip, tho can or two of spray may work. Be sure you can blow compressed air through ALL passages, and that you can see through pilot and main jet, holes on side of emusion tube/main jet holder are all open.
Be sure float needle seat is clean and needle valve doesn't have any grooves in it. Set float level. Very critical, there is only 1.5mm tolerance.
Next be sure air filter is clean AND dry ( didn't go through bunch of water did you?)
While carb is off, use flashlight to inspect reeds. No chips, frays, cracks, sealing tight?
Check all wire connections are clean and tight. Be sure coil mount is clean, bare, shiny metal.
Dielectric grease is good addition to all electrical connections.
Spark should be fat blue, not lazy yellow.
Install NEW plug. BTW, what does old plug look like?
If I forgot anything, someone will add to this.
I did all the steps that you mentioned from the ground up already carb has been dipped and passages were cleaned with compressed air air filter is clean and no I haven't gone through mud anytime lately probably a good 8 months mud free. The reeds aren't cracked or frayed but on one side they aren't fully closed, there is a little gap I'll post the picture when I get home and the spark plug when I took it out was black so I put some gas and lit it on fire to burn the oil and crud that was on it and brushed it down with a wire brush. Buying a new plug is priority today. Where is the coil located on the bike so I can check for that? I'm good with the mechanical part but not the electrical, that's why I bought a 2-stroke
While not great, reeds don't look to bad.
Follow plug wire, it's hooked to the coil. Speaking of which, ohm the plug cap/boot seperately. Should be close to 5K. Trim plug wire off 1/4 inch. Gives fresh, clean wire for plug cap. Install with di-electric grease.
Follow plug wire, it's hooked to the coil. Speaking of which, ohm the plug cap/boot seperately. Should be close to 5K. Trim plug wire off 1/4 inch. Gives fresh, clean wire for plug cap. Install with di-electric grease.
If it ran good with an oil ratio of 50:1 then changing the ratio to 32:1 will make it run fuel leaner.
With a leaner mixture it may run a little better, (this is what a mixture slightly on the too lean side will do), but may fry the top end.
While you have the carby apart, up the main jet one size, and then when you eventually get the engine started do a plug chop to confirm the jetting?
Okay so i got the bike running. It was the spark plug turns out the old spark was sparking but not where it's supposed to be sparking. I put the new spark plug and it turned on after a few kicks, obviously flooded from the multiple kicks I had previously done it smoked a lot. The idle was to low and it just made the bike turn off so I adjusted the idle and now it idles fine. The only thing wrong is the response, when I push the gas it doesn't rev until a second later, kinda like it bogs then revs. When I give full throttle in neutral it revs late. What could be the issue?
what is the plug you got?
please dont just right ngk i want to know all the letters/numbers lol
you turned up idle...what is airscrew set at?
please dont just right ngk i want to know all the letters/numbers lol
you turned up idle...what is airscrew set at?
Have you changed the needle setting and richened up the main to compensate changing from 50:1 to 32:1, as I continually say you have leaned out the AFR?
Changing oil ratios usually require jetting changes!
Is this the way that you adjusted the idle speed?
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
So put a larger jet and adjust the needle up? And what do you mean by AFR? All the steps that you mentioned I had previously done, I'm going to re do it when i change the jets though
Oh okay I haven't touched the afr i left it from stock and I put a bigger jet since I'm switching to 32:1 correct?
this is not how you fix a fouled 2 stroke plug, oil gets up inside between the insulator and electrode causing it to fire internally instead of at the tip. I have cooked the oil out with a propane torch and got them to fire again, and even over a fire when stranded once, but a new plug is the best option.
plug chops to determine main jet
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
doubtful you need to adjust the needle clip setting, the middle position works for most elevations and pipes,
as does the stock 32.5 pilot jet
adjust the airscrew, like this
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
do not get this confused with adjusting the idle, the idle screw is completely different and only adjusts rpm's at idle. tuning the airscrew adjusts the air/fuel ratio from idle to 1/4-ish throttle, get it correct = clean revs and quick throttle response
