2000 Blaster - Carb Problem

[piezzi]

My blaster will only idle with the choke pulled out and even then it's idling & reving too high and I'm getting lots of white smoke.

I have a stock carb, running 91 octane. Carb is clean along with the fuel tank petcock. and I sprayed carb cleaner looking for a vaccum leak without success. Thinking maybe an issue with the float level being too low or maybe my main jet being too small (or clogged).

Any thoughts?

 

[chadmann]

too much air?

 

[245stroker]

do you have any mods done to it?

 

[110octane]

your main jet controls from like 1/2 throttle to WOT (wide open throttle) so its not your main jet.

do you have your TORS system on there still?

 

[piezzi]

No mods...it's all stock. Definitely too much air.....but not sure why? I sprayed around with carb cleaner and didn't find a leak.

 

[piezzi]

TORS system....total newbee here.......and not sure what that is. I've read a lot of posts suggesting to disconnect it. What is it, why is it bad, and how do I disconnect?

 

[OTriGnO]

The TORS (Throttle OverRide System) is basically designed to shut the machine off when your thumb comes off the throttle and grounds. Say if you're riding hard for a while and then the pack stops and you pull your clutch in to stop and your throttle sticks, the TORS will kill the engine. In a few cases, well many actually, the damn thing just prevents your blaster from running correctly, or at all.

 

[piezzi]

ahhh...."I see", said the blind man. So what do I need to do to disconnect it? And once disconnected, do I just try to stall the motor if I'm ever in the situation where my throttle is stuck open?

 

[OTriGnO]

Mine was disconnected when I bought it so I'm not sure of what you need to do. And if you're ever in the situation there are a couple things to do:
1. Hit the kill switch (there have been reports that that doesn't work)
2. Choke-a-biotch and hope she drowns
3. Take a chance at getting shocked and pull the spark
or
4. Drop her into 5th and hang on for a ride wilder than last night with your girl.

 

[piezzi]

I did a forum search and found a DIY write up for disconnecting the TORS. So I'll give it a try and report back on the outcome.

 

[ron89]

My blaster will only idle with the choke pulled out and even then it's idling & reving too high and I'm getting lots of white smoke.

your crank seal is prolly leaking .. cause white smoke means its burning gear oil ...

 

[piezzi]

How do I check if the crank seal is leaking?

I disconnect my TORS and adjusted the idle screw & air screw where I can get it to idle but it's running like crap. When I rev the engine up a bit the rmps wanna stay high, the engine has a pulsating tempo to it, and seems to be over reving. Hoping the problem is carb rather than a crank seal issue.

 

[ron89]

if its running like this Video of blaster - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting and smokin like that then your crank seal is leaking ..

 

[sam0840]

i have something that sounds like the same problem. i am going to try a carb rebuild and see what happens. i'll let you know. check your carb top too. mine was stripped out from the carb body and i think it might be sucking in air from there...

 

[piezzi]

Mine is not smoking half as much as that one and also my engine doesn't rev as clean. Instead, mine's got more of a hard NA, NA, NA tempo and the rmp's want to stay up high and then slowly come down.

 

[sam0840]

i'd take the carb apart and start with all the easy things...check the air filter and air boot for obstructions, check your intake manifold for cracks, then look at the reeds to see if they are deformed. just try and narrow it down. make sure you blow all the jets out with compressed air in the carb

 

[chadmann]

make sure there are no cracks on the bottom of the block

 

[LoSeR]

When did this problem start? Check your pilot screw. Crank seal may be at fault.

 

[piezzi]

When did this problem start? Check your pilot screw. Crank seal may be at fault.

This quad was sitting in my Dad's garage in AZ the past couple years and was rarely ridden. When I got it to my place in SoCal, I rinsed the tank with some fresh gas and it was hard to start and wouldn't idle the one time it ran for me. I then pulled the carb off and gave it a quick once over with carb cleaner. I had the needle/seat &/or floats sticking on me upon reassembly and couldn't get it to work, so I bought and replaced the needle & seat. Fired right up and still does on the 2nd kick, but it has the symptoms I described in prior posts. Would initially only run with the choke on full, so I adjusted the idle speed and air mixture screws and now it idles, sort of, but continues to over rev up and not want to come down when I apply the throttle.

I changed the spark plug, which still looks very clean after I run it with just a little oil present on the metal electode. Also took the cover off the air box and air cleaner off, but it didn't seem to help. Disconnected the TORS, but also didn't help. So I just bought a carb rebuilt kit and I'll go back through the carb and replace the components in the kit. I'm also thinking about disconnecting the oil pump system and running 32:1 premix.

 

[quam]

you should check the jetting at WOT. do a plug test in that circuit. that means put the wheeler on the road in 2nd gear and hold the throttle all the way open. then hit the killswitch and pull in the clutch at the same time. don't let the engine pull the wheeler at all. then pull the plug and check for jetting condition. you will also need to check the plug after idle to check jetting at pilot.
also a compression check is highly recommended. if you've got some leakage in the rings, that could cause your white smoke.
the reeds are another really likely culprit. if they're bend or cracked, they won't snap shut like they're supposed to and will not give the valving resistance necessary for engine control via the throttle.