1st time ATV owner, went with the Blaster.

[cosmicglo]

Hello everyone, I am a first time ATV owner. I am 39 years old and decided it was time to play.

I bought a 2000 blaster and have been searching around here for a few days (nights) trying to figure out what I have and what I need for my blaster.

I was told by previous owner it had a Banshee rear end? I would like to find out how to tell. Can I measure it from rim to rim?

Also, would like to find out how long a stock swing arm is so I can see if mine is extended.

It looks wide in the rear and seems to be longer than the few other blasters I have seen in person.

I also would like to know if the oil block off thing was done, but I don't know what to look for on the engine. The oil tank is gone. there is clear a hose running from the engine to the rear (zip tied to the frame on the right side). could this be from the oil tank and was never removed?

I know it has the gold series fatty pipe and a FMF silencer. How can I tell if it has been bored out ect. without tearing the engine apart?

Sorry for all the questions.
I see lots of people willing to help.

I have been searching and will keep doing so, I just can't seem to find the exact answers I am looking for.
Thanks,
Mike (Cosmic Glo)

 

[blasterdad]

Hey, Welcome! New here also. Great site, love it. Check out my post in suspention ( +? Swingarm ) for the answer to your swingarm question. Ask your questions in the right forum, I.E. engine,suspention,body and you should get an answer / answers really fast, I did! Great people,very helpful. Just tying to pass it on!

 

[cosmicglo]

Thanks,
I will post them in the correct forums.
I didn't even think about that. Thanks for the advice. I will check out your post.

Nice blaster by the way. Great find.
I paid $1000 for mine and it doesn't look as nice as yours. Oh well, I hope I didn't get taken too bad. LOL.
-- Mike

 

[bigdaddycaddymane]

if you can post pics it helps alot. if the oil tank is gone it is most likely that it has the oil block off. you look on the right side of the carb and should see a spot where a hose used to connect or still is connected and should be plugged up. mix 32:1 and dont use weedeater oil.

 

[cosmicglo]

if you can post pics it helps alot. if the oil tank is gone it is most likely that it has the oil block off. you look on the right side of the carb and should see a spot where a hose used to connect or still is connected and should be plugged up. mix 32:1 and dont use weedeater oil.

Thanks. I will post pics as soon as I can. I will check out the carb. I mixed 32:1 and used outboard 2 stroke oil from WalMart.

Thanks for the help.

-- Mike

 

[brandoz28]

ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww go get yourself some decent 2 stroke oil. your blaster will thank you

 

[doc_speeder]

Meh. The outboard oil won't hurt. It's not likely the BEST, but guys run it all day everyday in outboards. VERY EXPENSIVE outboards. Nobody has been able to explain to me yet what makes a 1970's based Blaster motor so exotic that it needs the finest synthetics money can buy...

 

[blasterfreek30]

welcome to the forum bro...glad to see u decieded its time to play lol, u picked the right toy for sure

 

[slickerthanyou]

Welcome we want pics we want pics!!

 

[cosmicglo]

ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww go get yourself some decent 2 stroke oil. your blaster will thank you

I know, but the cycle shop was closed Sunday and Monday. I live 40 miles away and wanted to ride. From now on it will be the good stuff.

The pics are coming, just need to get a new SD card for the camera. And I need to give the blaster a bath first, lol.
-- Mike

 

[Awk08]

welcome to the site, you'll find all your answers here,
just measured my stock axle last week for another bro, it was 33" from tip to tip
the only clear hose any of mine have is the trans oil vent hose, it should run across and up the shifter side to under the hood, but could have been changed on yours, it should enter the center of the cases in behind the oil fill cap,
the injection hoses should come out of the upper oil pump cover right in front of the clutch cover, look for them to be cut off there or some silicon where they blocked off the hole
as for knowing if has been rebored, theres only one way to fing that out, read on top of the piston, or actually measure the bore,
hopefully you wont be doing either one of those soon
and as for why we like to use "good" oils is this is a small, air cooled motor, and usually beaten on hard, so a good oil only helps it last, i like the mid priced "maxima super m",
the outboard stuff will work, but i'd pick a good 2 stroke synthetic and stick with it

 

[cosmicglo]

Here are some pics.
More to come. I will post more in the photo thread. Thanks for your help everyone.

 

[TechBlaster]

Welcome to the site.

Bike looks good, these quads are alot of fun and very rewarding to work on, and keep them running the way they should. As for the 2 stroke oil, I cannot agree with AWK more. Why run outboard shelf motor when there are other, higher quality synthetics that will just plain lube better and extend life of the top end, period. As recommended, pick one and roll with it...

The stock heel guards have been removed from your bike, along with the plastic bottoms of the fender that mount to these heel guards. This can be deceiving as to make the bike look longer, but it looks like the swingarm is of stock length. As for the rear axle, just pull the wheels and measure from tip to tip, 33" is stock blaster and the banshee axle will measure about 36.5", have at it...

Your rear shock spring is red, which is not common. What is common when a red rear shock is seen on a blaster is when the bike has been retrofitted with a Honda 400EX rear shock, which is a substantial upgrade over the stock blasty shock. Check under your rear fender at the top of the shock, is there a large round ressi/canister connected? If so, bravo, that is a great upgrade already done. If not, disregard the babble above, and plan to perform this upgrade at some point. It is inexpensive and quite easy to install...

Also noticed your rear brake lever is missing by your right foot peg??? Is the entire rear brake setup removed? The pre 2003 blasters do not have the greatest breaks, all mechanical, drums in the front, mech. disk in rear, etc. 2003 and up were fitted with a fully upgraded hydraulic system, front and back, much better. These brakes can be fitted to the 2002 and older but there are so many other options as well, again affordable and semi easy to fit, if you have the right resources available. (See AWK's rear GSXR1000 fab, very impressive)


Just a few things to pick your brain about. Feel free to start new threads in the appropriate Site sections based on some of these topics if you want to get into detail, or simply respond with general info if you want to, in this thread.

It is YOUR thread, right???? I:I

 

[cosmicglo]

Thanks TechBlaster. I agree with the oil thing as well. Now that I have been reading more on here. I will run much better oil from now on. Thanks for reassuring me.

Indeed the entire rear brake system is missing. I am currently searching for some hydro brakes on Ebay and such. I really want to upgrade both the front and back.

The shocks are really pink. All three are pink. The picture was taken at night so it does indeed look red. I am going to go with the 400 EX shock since my brother in law has one he is selling for $20. I am actually buying all three shocks from him for that but understand the fronts don't match up. So I will put them on Craig's List or Ebay and maybe get my $20 back. lol.

I do have a question. Will the sprocket be stamped with a number? Mine says 41 on it. Is this stock or could it be the Banshee sprocket? I am sure it is the Banshee axle since it is at least 2 inches longer than 33 as far as I can tell with a tape and without pulling off the wheels just yet. Have not had the time with attending college, riding, and working. I am going to pull them off Tomorrow before I ride again.

Thanks again for the reply.

-- Mike

 

[bigdaddycaddymane]

this is an easy upgrade to do, unbolt the front tires and turn them around for a wider stance up front. takes a couple of minutes. i am not sure you can do it with hydraulic brake setup but with drums no prob. just spin them by hand when its up in the air to make sure the valve stem dont hit anything. many people do that on here. i done it.

 

[TechBlaster]

Yeah, the front wheel flip is a must on the pre 2003's, nice gain in width and handling. This will go nicely with the rear shee axle as well.

41 will not be stock for the rear sprocket, could be a banshee stocker left on the axle, etc. Anyway, most people run the 40 in the rear and go up one to 14t on the front, instead of stock 13t. This really wakes up the top end when the engine is piped well, larger fuel/air, etc.

As for the brakes, start with the rear(especially since yours is missing) and do any one of the many hydraulic conversions that are fairly easy to retrofit to the blaster. Again, AWK08 has a very cool conversion method for the GSXR1000 setup, that is kick a$$... Definitely on my (to do) list. But there are many options, and the 03+ blaster brake can be installed once you change the brake hub, as it needs to float. (think banshee setup will work the same, especially since you have the shee axle, may be there)

 

[blasterdemon7]

Welcome to the forum old man.lol