where is the carb off of the 2002? The spacers means someone was running one that the floatbowl would hit the clutch lever.
$100.00 98 BLASket case rebuild
- Thread starter AcidRayn
- Start date
can you explain further?
i know when i had spacers on my banshee, the left carb was a problem with the clucth actuator.
i looked at the carb off this blaster this morning and didnt see any wear marks.
but, the clutch was wayyyy out of adjustment, like not able to work, i have not got into that engine that far to see why, but the carb was surely not getting hit by the arm.
there is a chance this spacer went on and the quad never left the garage. scary seeing some of the PINEY POWER (nj's equal to redneck) engineering goin on with this chassis
Well if the clutch arm is adjusted properly, a larger carb body will hit the float bowl.
Usually the spacer plate is put in there to move the float bowl back far enough to put it on.
Usually the spacer plate is put in there to move the float bowl back far enough to put it on.
heres this weeks update.
got the front ends swaped out so now the project blaster has good ball joints and front brakes.
tried to get the swing arm off the 98, but the lower pin is frozen beyond frozen in the shock. might just have to do the bearings and bushings on the 02 swingarm and carrier . yechhhh!
got the engine just about done, bottom end is done, top end on, got to puttin the clutch in and found out i dont have the little ball bearing for in between the 2 clutch rods. 2 engines, no ball!
gotta locate one, so were at a stall till i find it
until next time,
got the front ends swaped out so now the project blaster has good ball joints and front brakes.
tried to get the swing arm off the 98, but the lower pin is frozen beyond frozen in the shock. might just have to do the bearings and bushings on the 02 swingarm and carrier . yechhhh!
got the engine just about done, bottom end is done, top end on, got to puttin the clutch in and found out i dont have the little ball bearing for in between the 2 clutch rods. 2 engines, no ball!
gotta locate one, so were at a stall till i find it
until next time,
i have used the ball out of a socket extension once when i was in a bind..just ground it out..lol.. my bud has used bb's..like from an air gun..
i like my tools too much to detroy them for the ball, it would make my snap on guy cry.
and using a bb? i thought about it, butttttttttt,
1. i just cant do it
2. its not hardend steel and those rods gotta be makin some serious rpm's.
3. i just cant do it
4. i building this with my kid, and trying to show him the right way,
we an afford the parts and can wait, (well, i can wait, he's driving me nuts)
5. i just cant do it
6. i want this to last, i had one for my daughter and it was quite dependable with a mild build. its a learning exp for my son, i dont feel like tearing this thing down again in a month, i dont have the time,and did i mention i just cant do that?
but thanks for the suggestions.
im curious, anyone on here personally used a bb and have it work? how long did it last? how hard was it to get the molten metal outa that shaft?
hahahaha from what i know of the bb it lasted the whole time he had the machine
.. i used that socket extension ball in a trail quad for at least 1 year...just didnt feel like taking it apart.. im pretty sure i used an old craftsman extension I:Iif ur not in a hurry i would just wait..i was thinking you wanted a quick fix.
yea, i got it.
1.16, i got 4!
figure i need 2 for the 2 engines, and 2 for dropsies
if i had ordered threw bike bandit, they were 0.58, and 0.42 for the stamp to mail them,
so it was a buck anyway, just got um local. lol
1.16, i got 4!
figure i need 2 for the 2 engines, and 2 for dropsies
if i had ordered threw bike bandit, they were 0.58, and 0.42 for the stamp to mail them,
so it was a buck anyway, just got um local. lol
got the engine all together, doing the leakdown, its leaking bad between the intake boot and the vforce reedblock.
gonna throw some sealer on it ima guessin.
cant decide on using the yamabond stuff or permatex copper
any suggestions?
gonna throw some sealer on it ima guessin.
cant decide on using the yamabond stuff or permatex copper
any suggestions?
Alrighty then. got the engine together and finally a chance to do the leak down
test today, only after a brake job on a customers car.
got it to hold that 7 lbs only after much hair pulling out. first the intake boot was leaking in between the boot and the vforce 3 reedblock. had to seal it all with permatex copper.
then it was still leaking, so, off came the flywheel first as it is the easiest to pull, and sure as hell, the seal is blowin bubbles like a 5 yr old on a hot summer day, i pull it out, and, what do you know, my buddy vito hooked me up with some fine made in china crap seal!!
this pissed me off, cuz it wasted alot of my time, but THANK god i did the test! the inner seal has a blantant defect, and now im very glad i have a yamaha seal on the clutch side.
here is the leak down tester i put together. i had the moroso gauge, it came off this low pressure tire gauge i have from my drag racing days. a few parts from lowes and a expandable freeze out plug from pep boys and i was set
i used 1/4" barbs and T. the piece for the carb boot is a 1" plumbing reducer. had a hard time getting it to seal in the carb boot, finaly coated it with yamabond, let it set up then put it in, worked like a charm, pulled it out, just peeled off the yamabond.
taking the time to make this tester just saved me from a definite leaned out condition. i would have smoked a new engine, and i dont think i would have been happy.
hoping to have it in the frame and fired up tommorow
test today, only after a brake job on a customers car.
got it to hold that 7 lbs only after much hair pulling out. first the intake boot was leaking in between the boot and the vforce 3 reedblock. had to seal it all with permatex copper.
then it was still leaking, so, off came the flywheel first as it is the easiest to pull, and sure as hell, the seal is blowin bubbles like a 5 yr old on a hot summer day, i pull it out, and, what do you know, my buddy vito hooked me up with some fine made in china crap seal!!
this pissed me off, cuz it wasted alot of my time, but THANK god i did the test! the inner seal has a blantant defect, and now im very glad i have a yamaha seal on the clutch side.
here is the leak down tester i put together. i had the moroso gauge, it came off this low pressure tire gauge i have from my drag racing days. a few parts from lowes and a expandable freeze out plug from pep boys and i was set
i used 1/4" barbs and T. the piece for the carb boot is a 1" plumbing reducer. had a hard time getting it to seal in the carb boot, finaly coated it with yamabond, let it set up then put it in, worked like a charm, pulled it out, just peeled off the yamabond.
taking the time to make this tester just saved me from a definite leaned out condition. i would have smoked a new engine, and i dont think i would have been happy.
hoping to have it in the frame and fired up tommorow
IT IS ALIVEEEEEEE!!!!!!
got it bolted in and fired up tonight.
got some details to work out, like gettin rid of that dam tors,
jetting, its got a 310 in it now, think the other guy had a air leak.? lol
rear brakes, chain, plastic. its all down hill now
got it bolted in and fired up tonight.
got some details to work out, like gettin rid of that dam tors,
jetting, its got a 310 in it now, think the other guy had a air leak.? lol
rear brakes, chain, plastic. its all down hill now
lol, DAYUM, i was wonderin how long it would take lol
i took some today, but the camera is out back in the garage, and i aint walking back there at this hour,
theres scary chit in them woods! lol
no plastic yet, tank aint even bolted down, just sitin on top, enough to run it.
i got some jetting to do, theres a 310 main in there now, and i can hear it choking on fuel.
pics soon my brudda, pics soon.
this is where im at with this
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/wits-end-hellpppp-please-33233/#post398538
take a look all help will be appreciated
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/wits-end-hellpppp-please-33233/#post398538
take a look all help will be appreciated
wow, nice find. you look all this up or found it somewhere?
this explains a couple things, but not others.
again, im working with 2 blasters, a 98 and an 02. im using the ignition/stator set up outa the 02, simply cuz it was cleaner, and the kid i got it from said it was replaced with a new yamaha set last year, so that explains the numbers on the pickup coil, but on the ignition coil, im pretty sure they are both originals, i think i can pretty much assume the 98 is original, as that bike has sat since 2000 in pieces, so the guy said that i got it from.
now, for tonights updates, i (brian) pulled the carb, we broke it down again, this time paying alot of attention to the enrichener circuit, and it was clear, i even took the metering jet out of the bowl and it was crystal clear.
i put in a new pilot, 35, and a new main, 260. the 32.5 pilot was clean and clear, this move was a just because move, i can always go back to the 32.5.
now, i pulled the reeds, they are v force 3's. i am not impressed with the design of the reed cage. with a straight edge, the plastic seat is kina concave, its slight and i was too lazy to get the feeler gauges outa the tool box to get a measurement, but the reeds are not sitting true flat.
this v force was on the bike when i got it and i dont have another set of reeds at the moment, so i took them all apart, checked very close under the loop for cracks. the corners of the carbon fiber are worn. im not familiar with carbon fiber reeds so i dont know for sure, but they dont look kosher. i cleaned them up good and flipped them, now they are sitting decent, i will replace soon.
re did leak down test, 7psi for an hour.
now, the big question, in the intake, that indent at the very rear most part of the intake, had oil puddled up in it. quite a bit. it was 2 stroke oil.
any suggestions on this one?
its back together and i cant run it till the morn, pisses off the wife when i fire up toys this late.
ill report in tomorow
okay, heres an update
IT FRIGGING RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!
after tearing the carb down again, swaping jets, cleaning the pet weiner, re dressing the reeds,
testing and re installing the coil, dressing up the ground connections, all 2 of them.
it was still backfiring. tors is completely disconected, same problem.
i pulled the wiring harness and cdi box off the other frame.
also started thinking about fuel more and the premix.
im a blendzall guy, been running castor since that was all there was to use, long before syntheics
i was running at 20:1 for break in, so i dumped that and went to 32:1 and changed out the cdi
the jets are a 260 main and a 40 pilot at 1 1/4 turns
it is now firing up on the first kick. let it run for a bit with a fan on it, shut it down, cool off, repeat
tommorow im going to put the complete wiring harness on it and plastics, air filter and get it out to start the jetting
process.
thanks to all for your help, its truly appreciated.
pictures to follow
IT FRIGGING RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!
after tearing the carb down again, swaping jets, cleaning the pet weiner, re dressing the reeds,
testing and re installing the coil, dressing up the ground connections, all 2 of them.
it was still backfiring. tors is completely disconected, same problem.
i pulled the wiring harness and cdi box off the other frame.
also started thinking about fuel more and the premix.
im a blendzall guy, been running castor since that was all there was to use, long before syntheics
i was running at 20:1 for break in, so i dumped that and went to 32:1 and changed out the cdi
the jets are a 260 main and a 40 pilot at 1 1/4 turns
it is now firing up on the first kick. let it run for a bit with a fan on it, shut it down, cool off, repeat
tommorow im going to put the complete wiring harness on it and plastics, air filter and get it out to start the jetting
process.
thanks to all for your help, its truly appreciated.
pictures to follow
what kind of seat is that what kind of plastics are those and what kind of air shrouds are those??????:-/:-/