Okay, so I put a new plug in my 01 Blaster and it ran fine and idle'd great so my recent problem was solved. The next day I went out to start it, it started and made a really loud popping noise and died and wouldn't kick over. I tried to roll start it and it started, popped, and died again. Only this time, it would roll in gear! Neither me or my dad know what it could be, we checked the wiring, spark plug(went and bought another brand new one again..), carb, and other things. I thought it was the piston at first but it has plenty of compression, it just isnt getting the fire it needs. Any suggestions??
01 Blaster not firing
- Thread starter Gusman017
- Start date
How much compression ? Low compression will cause it to roll in gear. Is the kicker easier to kick?
The noise could be detonation.
You say it's not getting the spark it needs? Is it getting spark at all tho.
Try pulling the stator cover off and checking that out. Over advanced timing can cause detonation, as well as bad spark and timing.
The noise could be detonation.
You say it's not getting the spark it needs? Is it getting spark at all tho.
Try pulling the stator cover off and checking that out. Over advanced timing can cause detonation, as well as bad spark and timing.
check the reeds, pull carb and peek in there with a flashlight, all 4 reed petals should be present and closed.
the other likely cause of backfiring is a sheared woodruff key on the flywheel,
if broken, it will allow the flywheel to rotate out of timing, and it will fire at the wrong time.
the other likely cause of backfiring is a sheared woodruff key on the flywheel,
if broken, it will allow the flywheel to rotate out of timing, and it will fire at the wrong time.
Well, I found the problem. What I had originally thought but my dad did not want to tear into the engine cause he said it wasn't the problem. My piston is busted and my rings are worn out my head gasket and even my jug is too. When my dad switched spark plugs something fell down in there and bounced around it looks like. Instead of getting a new jug we were going to bore it out more and buy a new piston right now its a 230, can it have a bore and be a stroker? I was wanting 240 4mm stroker or 280 6mm stroker, the 280 and 6s break down alot easier I hear though.
What plug u put in there. Is the electrode still on the plug?
You can have your cylinder sleeved for a 240 sleeve. Your bike is probably bored 30 over not a 230. Most likely.
I've personally never heard of a 280 kit tho! Didn't know they existed.
On the stroker. You can install a stroker in ur bike. The +3 requires a spacer plate or ur cylinder ported to match the longer stroke ( the better option)
+4 will require ur cases trenched.
And I couldn't even tell u what the +6 requires but I know KOR can tell ya! Pretty sure he's the only one doing them as of now.
Your bike is NOT currently a 230cc...
boring 30 is simply .75mm bigger than the stock bore. What you have is a 201cc. going another bore might make it a 202cc. NOT 240cc
boring 30 is simply .75mm bigger than the stock bore. What you have is a 201cc. going another bore might make it a 202cc. NOT 240cc
I was just always told that if its bored .30 or .40 over its list 230 or 240. I didn't mean it as 230cc either way just meant it as its bored 30 over. Poor choice of words though. But thank you for the info, it has a 30 over kit in it now we found out and we think that it does just need re-sleeved by chance. I had seen .80 over kits on Ebay, or so they said, never knew they existed either. Have to talk to a Yamaha dealer this weekend about bore kits and strokers. Also I'm still learning, haven't had a bike for but a year and a half now so if I mistake something or get something confused with another, I'm sorry.
Ahhh. Yeah if your bored. 30 over you got a few bores left on that cylinder. No need to resleeve. A good bore and hone should do the trick. Only logical reasons to resleeve Is to press a 240 kit sleeve in or your cylinder is on its last bore or real close to it with heavy damage.
If the damage isn't to bad go 40 over ( always bore the least possible to clean the damage so u can conserve ur bores) but a 40 over piston kit and call it a day. The builder that bores ur cylinder will need the piston in hand to cut within spec.
Well guys, what I've found out is
Bike may or may not be bored(the jug is still stock size bore, but the pistons serial code brings up a .30 over piston, so any help with that?)
Piston is busted
Rings are bad
Jug is bad
Stator, coil, and something else may have gone bad.
And other things, adding up to 900-1200 dollars in repairs if all parts are bad, if not maybe a little over or less than half of that. My bike is only worth 1000-1100 so I may end up getting a new bike and using the blaster for a winter project! I'll have to see.
Bike may or may not be bored(the jug is still stock size bore, but the pistons serial code brings up a .30 over piston, so any help with that?)
Piston is busted
Rings are bad
Jug is bad
Stator, coil, and something else may have gone bad.
And other things, adding up to 900-1200 dollars in repairs if all parts are bad, if not maybe a little over or less than half of that. My bike is only worth 1000-1100 so I may end up getting a new bike and using the blaster for a winter project! I'll have to see.
If wont cost that much dude!
piston 110
bore/hone 60
clean the bottom end (KOR) 230 i think
So unless you wanted to add a +4 240cc ported something or nother, it wont cost over 1000
piston 110
bore/hone 60
clean the bottom end (KOR) 230 i think
So unless you wanted to add a +4 240cc ported something or nother, it wont cost over 1000
I forgot to mention what we may have done to it, my dad and his friend who both have worked on bikes from kids to their age now gave me the total cost so far. That was just in parts we're thinking of a whole rebuild and bore and other things, I forgot to mention that because I'm half asleep lol, sorry for the confusion but I hope it wont be that much, but we think the oil injector went out and it ran too hot and messed everything up, but we dont know for sure yet!
More than likely the oil injection system was working well, but could not supply enough lubrication to compensate for heat produced by an air leak or incorrect jetting.
There is a possibility of the injection system failing but it is usually due to operator error, insufficient oil in tank, introduced dirt or an air lock caused by a flip over.
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