i have a 01 blaster with a dg pipe and oil block off i run a 280 main jet i recently took my air box lid off and it ran like sh*t so i just put it back on last night cause of the first snow fall and it didnt bog down and ran fine could it just have been the air lid
01 blaster bogging
- Thread starter heatlbj6
- Start date
Removing the lid would have caused a lean mix, replacing has caused the mix to richen due to restricted air flow.
It would be a good idea to plug chop to confirm jetting.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
It would be a good idea to plug chop to confirm jetting.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
Taking the lid off will upset the jetting by at least 2 main jet sizes.
It will run lean, hot and will soon fry the piston.
It will run lean, hot and will soon fry the piston.
Have you plug chopped to confirm.
Lets do the math.
DG pipe = #250 to #270 main depending on temp and elevation.
One more for the oil injection delete, at 32:1 #270, #280
Two more for airbox lid removal. #290, #300.
Do you see where I am coming from?
Slam in a #290 or #300 main.
You must plug chop to confirm.
Lets do the math.
DG pipe = #250 to #270 main depending on temp and elevation.
One more for the oil injection delete, at 32:1 #270, #280
Two more for airbox lid removal. #290, #300.
Do you see where I am coming from?
Slam in a #290 or #300 main.
You must plug chop to confirm.
I have an 01, all stock inside with a DG exhaust, K&N filter with the lid off. A 280 main is what I run but I'm not mixing.
Like everyone else said. Do a plug chop to confirm. Nobody can tell you exactly what jet to use if you dont do a plug chop
Have you got adequate fuel supply to the carby?
Crack open the drain screw with the petcock on, There should be a constant stream of fuel flowing out the drain.
Many people will give you different info, only a plug chop on your bike at your location will confirm the jetting issues.
To achieve a correct reading on the plug the float level must be correct. The carby must not be flooding due to dirt in the needle and seat.
The pilot jet should be a #32.5 and the idle must be adjusted correctly.
Crack open the drain screw with the petcock on, There should be a constant stream of fuel flowing out the drain.
Many people will give you different info, only a plug chop on your bike at your location will confirm the jetting issues.
To achieve a correct reading on the plug the float level must be correct. The carby must not be flooding due to dirt in the needle and seat.
The pilot jet should be a #32.5 and the idle must be adjusted correctly.
Ok so I just read the whole thread and what I got was u have a stock motor with DG head pipe and silencer or stock head pipe with DG silencer? You premix 32:1, and have the stock airbox with lid? But when you removed the lid -err gave it more air- it had no power?
Before I re-built my sons blaster, he had stock motor 68mm rad valve, complete DG pipe system, vented lid and the stock carb wanted a 330 (plug chopped), of course this was before I learned of leak testing! Yes it blew the piston
99% of the time removing the air lid wakes it up a little!
It sure does sound like a very lean condition, due to improper jetting , dirty carb, improper float level. The float can be incorrect and still not leak gas out the overflow. I'd leak test that motor before I try to jet it.
And just for sh*ts and giggles, If you have a parking brake make sure it's off or unplug the connector! No laughing has happened!
Before I re-built my sons blaster, he had stock motor 68mm rad valve, complete DG pipe system, vented lid and the stock carb wanted a 330 (plug chopped), of course this was before I learned of leak testing! Yes it blew the piston
99% of the time removing the air lid wakes it up a little!
It sure does sound like a very lean condition, due to improper jetting , dirty carb, improper float level. The float can be incorrect and still not leak gas out the overflow. I'd leak test that motor before I try to jet it.
And just for sh*ts and giggles, If you have a parking brake make sure it's off or unplug the connector! No laughing has happened!
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