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dzeolla87
New Member From Plum Boro, PA
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I can't repost, you were the one who posted it for me or edit it, Just do the quad at $1,100 trailer $300
no, only you can edit your own threads, just repost, new lower price......
Quad and Trailer for $1,450
Quad for $1,300
trailer for $350
yeah bro, i didnt wanna say anything, but you'll be lucky to get $1200 for the quad, ya never get out what ya put into blasters, and i've seen 03 - 05's lately goin for $1200 - $1500
and small trailers can be had at lowes for $500
selling quad for $1,400 and trailer at $500 OR YOUR BEST OFFER!!!
MY QUAD IS UP FOR SALE
New piston bored .020 over, hasn't been ridden yet,
Toomey B1 racing pipe
Toomey B1 silencer
Green Flames Seat
Green Flames Grips
Green Flames Shocks
BRAND NEW TIRES FRONT AND REAR
Rear is Mud Shark
Front is ITP Holeshot
Hydrualic Rear brake conversion bracket kit
Painted frame black with clear coat on top
IMS Fatty Foot pegs
IMS Heel Guard
Cycra handle guard, 1 is still on, other 1 is broken
Moose Racing Throttle
New Moose Racing Front bumper
Wide Rear Grab Bar
Sprayed all rims black
Sprayed all hub green
Rear swing arm guard
I have title for it, also some misc stock parts, plus a manual book
I will sell quad at $1,500 and Trailer at $500 OR YOUR BEST OFFER!!!!
TEXT ME 412 251 3466
OR CALL ME 866 758 7515
ALSO a 4x6 trailer for sale, its a 2009 Carry Craft, also have title for it, I also sprayed whole trailer with rust free black spray paint, so there is no rust on the trailer
That quad fits trailer just fine, It also have license plate
i told you way before, it wasnt the caliper, it's the way your bleeding them, they gotta be off the bike, up in the air, with the bleeders facing upwards, pump the pedal, release bleeder while holding the pedal down, tighten bleeder, release pedal, repeat till no air comes out of them, works everytime
how much ya want for that original caliper ????
hey bro, good to heaqr from ya, and i doubt the caliper is bad if it isnt leaking fluid, did you try takeing the caliper off the bracket, flip it over so the bleeders face upwards, seems these have a pocket that air gets trapped in, and the above mentioned always fixes that
you have to be a supporting member, or have at least 300 posts to use the "for sale" and "wanted" threads, that keeps spammers out and also helps protect our members from people that just come here to sell sh*t, and possibly rip us off by not sending the goods, but i could post sumthin for you, if you want, just type up a for sale ad, send pics with it, and i'll post for you, saying to contact you2000 doesnt sound bad to me as a package deal
i doubt your gonna get 2 grand for the bike, even like new 2005's arent gettin that much, ya never get outta these blasters what ya put in them, most good condition 03+ are gettin maybe $1800, and anything up to 02, great shape, may get $1200, maybe 15,
but i could be interested in the trailer if you cant sell them both as a package deal
lemme knowwell theres no real way i can tell whether to go to 0.10 or 0.20 from just looknig at a piston, youd have it measured by a shop. the safest thing to do would be just do .020. you said the sleeve isnt damaged but excess wear is what id be concerned about, and yes i use a wiseco piston for your rebuild
boy that a tuff call d, you mighta knocked some electrical connection loose, or... i cased my bike very hard one time and actually bent the tab on the floats and it was gettin way too much gas and hardly ran at all,
i'd first check all electrical connections then pull the carb and give it a good cleaning, maybe just some dirt got knocked around outta the bowl and clogged a jet
and the flaots should be 20 - 21.5 mm from where the gasket would sit to the top of float, this is measured when you tilt the carb and the float just touches the little pin sticking outta the float valve,
buy the kit, chances are you'll get another bad master, rebuild that one and you know it's good, there easy to do, pull that rubber boot, undo the snap ring and it will all pull down out, replace the o-rings and rubber cup washer and re-assemble
yes, forcing that rod in there on an angle has to be hard on them orings, give what you said a try and lemme know, i'm getting your brakes working soon no matter what it takes!!!!!
im gonna be making brackets soon, possibly over the weekend, and will send or bring you a new one, this has gone on way too long, and what we have been doing isnt working, so let me get these made and i may just come help you do this, i'll holler when ready
Well if it has to be straight as possible then i would need a new bracket for that master cylinder only, i don't think i can re drill the hole or else it would just make a bigger hole
if them washers arent leaking fluid they are good, and the rod must be straight going into the master, or it wont push the piston in far enuf, try just undoing the pin, straighten it up and just use the pedal without being connected by the pin, see if that helps, then drill a new hole for the pin if that works,it has to be as straight as possible -
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