YZ250 Blaster Build Log

I would rather see you do what best did with his pipe than using an old honda 3 wheeler pipe.
 
You didn't mention it. Kinda of a running joke between me and another member on here. A guy on facebook uses a 3 wheeler pipe on his 250 blaster builds cause he says it fits better with less work than the proper pipe for the motor and no frame cutting.
 
Drew up the wiring diagram, I left out the connections because my diagram is so scattered. I drew this based on using a WR250 stator which has a lighting coil, I would like to use a warrior or yfz450 rectifier if that's possible. I also would like the key to shut off power to the lights and to the engine just like any normal key. If anyone has any suggestions or can see anything wrong with this let me know, Thanks.
Blaster yz250 diagram.jpg

I actually spotted something wrong as soon as I posted this, I don't think I'll be able to have the key be a kill switch the way it is, unless the key has a connection that is broken when it's on and a connection that is made when it's on.
 
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You didn't mention it. Kinda of a running joke between me and another member on here. A guy on facebook uses a 3 wheeler pipe on his 250 blaster builds cause he says it fits better with less work than the proper pipe for the motor and no frame cutting.

Ohhhhh okay haha, you had me confused for a second, I had no idea what you were talking about. No I am not going to use a 3 wheeler pipe for this, it'll be the proper size pipe for this motor.
 
While I'm waiting for the other yz250 motor to arrive I figured I would get started on making the mounts for it. I used the 93 motor that I have to cut the swing arm and start to see how I'll need to mount it. The kickstarter hits the frame right now but once I rotate the engine down a bit it should clear.
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Your schematic is pretty close with only 1 mistake that I see. The regulator you have is only a regulator. You need a rectifier/regulator. Trailtech makes a good one. You will have 2 wires going from the charge coil to the rectifier/regulator and 2 wires going from the rectifier/regulator to the battery. Although the key switch does have a pair of NC contacts and a pair of NO contacts, I wouldn't bother with a key switch. If you are going to rely on a key switch to keep someone from stealing it, you're an idiot. Even if you are set on using a key switch, I wouldn't make the charge wire go through it. You could make the lighting circuit go through it, but I see no need to.
 
Your schematic is pretty close with only 1 mistake that I see. The regulator you have is only a regulator. You need a rectifier/regulator. Trailtech makes a good one. You will have 2 wires going from the charge coil to the rectifier/regulator and 2 wires going from the rectifier/regulator to the battery. Although the key switch does have a pair of NC contacts and a pair of NO contacts, I wouldn't bother with a key switch. If you are going to rely on a key switch to keep someone from stealing it, you're an idiot. Even if you are set on using a key switch, I wouldn't make the charge wire go through it. You could make the lighting circuit go through it, but I see no need to.

I appreciate the insight but it's impossible to have 2 wires coming from the charging coil. The wr250 stator, which I'll be using, has 1 yellow wire that feeds power. That wire will have to go to the rectifier/regulator to convert to DC at the proper voltage. I also don't see why there would need to be 2 wires coming from the rectifier to the battery but I am interested in knowing your reasoning.

As for the Key, I tested the key I was going to use and saw that it did what I wanted so I am still going to have a key. I'm not an idiot trying to stop thefts with a key, I'm trying to shut off the motor and the lights. You're right about not having the charge go through the key, I will change that.
 
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As "Bluesman" says .. float the ground .. remove the coil wire from the ground post ( see picture) this wire is now the ground for your electrical system, not the frame .. the yellow is your positive .. your ignition system is independent and you can use the blaster kill switch with that .. the Trailtech is a clean, easy way to go
~
 
Thank you for the information guys. I guess I'll have to cross that bridge when I get to it. I do still want the key to control the lights just because I might want them on when the motor is off.

The trail tech regulator/rectifier, is that something I have to use or could I use, for example, a YFZ450 or warrior regulator/rectifier, if those models have one.
 
Picked up the tubing I'll need for the mounts and reinforcing the frame in the front a bit. Going to put gussets in the front to reinforce everything, I'll be working on that and cutting the tubing tomorrow. Friday I'm going to my dads' friend's house to get everything welded. Hopefully be able to ride it around by Monday.
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Thank you for the information guys. I guess I'll have to cross that bridge when I get to it. I do still want the key to control the lights just because I might want them on when the motor is off.

The trail tech regulator/rectifier, is that something I have to use or could I use, for example, a YFZ450 or warrior regulator/rectifier, if those models have one.

This is the reg/rec I used for my led's or get the trail tech . You can wire up through your headlight switch to turn on and off without the engine running . No need for a key .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPI-Voltage...aha-/201183523948?hash=item2ed778f46c&vxp=mtr

I have it mounted in the stock regulator location
 
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So everything has to ground through the battery which will ground through the stator? no grounds go to the frame? Am I comprehending this right?

those 2 yellow wires, one will go the yellow on the lighting coil and the other will go to the ground from the stator?

How's this new diagram looking?
image.jpg
 
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