Alright so I used to have a Polaris express 300. Great model, only thing Polaris made that was reliable.
Never had any issues.
Fast forward to about 3 days ago I got my first manual.
Yamaha blaster 200 bored to 250.
Guy that did it works at Honda on cars and atvs so I thought “I might be getting something good here.”
He says he did top end and bottom end rebuild but it’s been in the garage for a year so the carb needs cleaning, no problem, ran great the first 2 days I had it so I figured “what the hell, clean it when it starts to give me problems” now on the express model I had, when the carb gave problems, it just wouldn’t turn over or something simple like that.
Well today I was riding and all of a sudden it started bogging.
Would rev up fine in idle but in 2nd or 3rd it would just bog about 1/2 throttle.
Worried it’s a piston issue so I took the carb off, cleaned it, did some tuning but like I said, used to express carb so this was a bit different, and put it back on, but as I was putting it back on, I noticed the guy did a half ass job on the tors delete, (he just cut the wires off) so I took the tors apart and made my own idle screw which works AWESOME!! Saves drilling into the carb and everything.
Anyway, I put it on and after doing some testing, the idle was finally good.
I just need some advice on how to tune the carb as far as the float level because it still overflows and maybe some pics of worn down float needles. Mine looked okay but I’m not for sure.
Also forgot to mention I did a compression test on the engine while cold.
Around 8 kicks with throttle wide open, the needle on the tester stops at 120.
I feel that is a little low on a 250 bore but not entirely sure.
It’s also stock carb so I wasn’t sure if a stock carb would fit a 250 bore, maybe so.
It’s a mikuni. Just give me some ideas.
Did I get scammed??
Side note: takes like 20 kicks when the engine is cold to start it, again might be carb that just needs tuning but want some thoughts on that too.
Never had any issues.
Fast forward to about 3 days ago I got my first manual.
Yamaha blaster 200 bored to 250.
Guy that did it works at Honda on cars and atvs so I thought “I might be getting something good here.”
He says he did top end and bottom end rebuild but it’s been in the garage for a year so the carb needs cleaning, no problem, ran great the first 2 days I had it so I figured “what the hell, clean it when it starts to give me problems” now on the express model I had, when the carb gave problems, it just wouldn’t turn over or something simple like that.
Well today I was riding and all of a sudden it started bogging.
Would rev up fine in idle but in 2nd or 3rd it would just bog about 1/2 throttle.
Worried it’s a piston issue so I took the carb off, cleaned it, did some tuning but like I said, used to express carb so this was a bit different, and put it back on, but as I was putting it back on, I noticed the guy did a half ass job on the tors delete, (he just cut the wires off) so I took the tors apart and made my own idle screw which works AWESOME!! Saves drilling into the carb and everything.
Anyway, I put it on and after doing some testing, the idle was finally good.
I just need some advice on how to tune the carb as far as the float level because it still overflows and maybe some pics of worn down float needles. Mine looked okay but I’m not for sure.
Also forgot to mention I did a compression test on the engine while cold.
Around 8 kicks with throttle wide open, the needle on the tester stops at 120.
I feel that is a little low on a 250 bore but not entirely sure.
It’s also stock carb so I wasn’t sure if a stock carb would fit a 250 bore, maybe so.
It’s a mikuni. Just give me some ideas.
Did I get scammed??
Side note: takes like 20 kicks when the engine is cold to start it, again might be carb that just needs tuning but want some thoughts on that too.