DIY 4 Degree Timing Advance (Pics)

Running hot? As in overheating? I'll check the plug see how it looks

Yes. This typically helps to do a similar method as plug chopping(but not actually chopping the plug) but ride a little longer and see how far the annealing mark is on the spark plug's ground strap. If it's farther past the 90 degree bend and towards the weld, it's usually running a bit hot/off on timing. This can be SOMEWHAT cured by switching to BR9 plugs which will lower engine temps some. You can try BR9 plugs and see how they run for you. Certainly won't hurt anything and should make the engine run a little cooler.
 
IMO br9es plugs suck i tryd one after seeing the thread on it how they run cooler but after the bike warms up it wont idle put a br8es plug in and runs fine.
 
IMO br9es plugs suck i tryd one after seeing the thread on it how they run cooler but after the bike warms up it wont idle put a br8es plug in and runs fine.

You should only run BR9 plugs if your brake mean engine pressure is higher. They won't benefit you at all on a stock engine other than running cooler. Now if you have advanced timing and/or a milled head and run higher static and brake mean engine pressures, then they are beneficial. In my case, with 180ish psi compression on a milled head AND +5 timing advance, the BR9 is the better running plug and decreases the increased engine temps from added compression/advanced timing.
 
You should only run BR9 plugs if your brake mean engine pressure is higher. They won't benefit you at all on a stock engine other than running cooler. Now if you have advanced timing and/or a milled head and run higher static and brake mean engine pressures, then they are beneficial. In my case, with 180ish psi compression on a milled head AND +5 timing advance, the BR9 is the better running plug and decreases the increased engine temps from added compression/advanced timing.

You have a drag blaster?

I run br9 with a 12:1 dome with 150+psi but I have a 4002t which has water cooling. BTW, how does 180psi + br9 + race gas do with the heat on that air cooled engine? What do you run in the 1/8th?
 
You have a drag blaster?

I run br9 with a 12:1 dome with 150+psi but I have a 4002t which has water cooling. BTW, how does 180psi + br9 + race gas do with the heat on that air cooled engine? What do you run in the 1/8th?

No I just mainly trail ride mine. I'm still dialing in the jetting. I won't know for sure how well it dissipates the heat with the BR9 until I can get it all dialed in and check the plugs, but so far I haven't had any issues. I'm not running any special race fuel. It's just a 60/40 mix of Sunoco/Cam 2 110 octane and regular 93 octane. It would probably run cooler with a variety of VP fuels, but that sh*t is more expensive than my life.
 
No I just mainly trail ride mine. I'm still dialing in the jetting. I won't know for sure how well it dissipates the heat with the BR9 until I can get it all dialed in and check the plugs, but so far I haven't had any issues. I'm not running any special race fuel. It's just a 60/40 mix of Sunoco/Cam 2 110 octane and regular 93 octane. It would probably run cooler with a variety of VP fuels, but that sh*t is more expensive than my life.

A 110 mix will work but I am sure you know 180 psi is borderline between race fuel and alky, running straight 93 would definately be chancing detonation. I heard race gas is required after you get above 160!
 
ok back to the BR9. LRD u think im better off with that plug over the BR8ES? i havent taken my bike out for a good ride since i did this mod. if u think im better off with the BR9 whats the gap on it? also i got the 28mm pwk coming in th email too. BR9 is still good with that carb right? btw theres alotta BR9s which one am I supposed to get? theres a ton of different kinds: BR9ECSIX-5, BR9HIX 5687, BR9ES, BR9EG, list goes on

(btw i PMd u about that carb last week. had some dialing in Qs about it)
 
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ok back to the BR9. LRD u think im better off with that plug over the BR8ES? i havent taken my bike out for a good ride since i did this mod. if u think im better off with the BR9 whats the gap on it? also i got the 28mm pwk coming in th email too. BR9 is still good with that carb right? btw theres alotta BR9s which one am I supposed to get? theres a ton of different kinds: BR9ECSIX-5, BR9HIX 5687, BR9ES, BR9EG, list goes on

(btw i PMd u about that carb last week. had some dialing in Qs about it)


You are probably fine with a BR8ES. You can go ahead and try a BR9ES and see how it runs, but I'm guessing you won't need it since you haven't upped the static compression any from head mods. As far as gap, NGK is typically pretty good with them. I have checked it here and there from time to time, but have never found one out of spec. I think I responded to your PM.
 
what degree would work on my blaster,i dont think i have to rejet but dont know. i have .80 over, stock head, bosyeen super stock reeds, 250 main jet, and a uni fliter, performance cdi,and stator. i run 93 gas
 
i would go with a +3 on your bike tooter... be sure and do a plug chop if you havent already just to verify your jetting. the advancement doesnt usually need a jetting change but if your on the lean side already then this could cause problems.
 
I'm not sure for your setup but don't buy the plugs that have an "R" in the nomenclature. you just have to try both and see which run's better
 
my blaster is totally stock power wise and i was thinking of doing this mod to my blaster and i have a few questions

im running 18s and i have 13/40 gearing will this mod take away my topend or will is cost me any speed when i'm going flat out in 6th

can i run higher octane with the timeing advanced

and do i need and specailist tools

and does it affect reliability
 
I would switch to 14/40 gearing with 18's anyways but it will not take anything considerable away from topend. You do not need higher octane with a 3* advance on a stock bike but double checking your jetting is always a good idea. The only specialty type tools you will need are a flywheel puller and dremel tool along with a way to measure mm's. Any performance hop up potentially effects reliability but by keeping your routein maintenance up and jetting correct its no more than adding a pipe to the bike.