Wont start

Racer51

New Member
May 19, 2011
1,775
14
0
32
Northwest Ohio
Hey guys I need a pro's advice I cant get her to fire up. The mods are a super clean carb with a 32.5 pilot and a 260 main on a you guessed it a stock carb, VForce 3's, brand new no time on them a uni filter and no lid. An FMF Fatty and turbinecoreII, compression is at 140+ about 3-6psi 3 times in a row. So I'm confident it's not that. I checked the wireing when I first got it and wraped it up in great electrical tape. The wires are grounded and connected to where their supposed to be. The tors is removed but nida, nada, nothing. The only problem is it seams to want to sputter to life when WOT but dosent it just churns loudly. You know it makes that PSHTTTT sound like a silent fart with a very small puff of smoke whatever it is. Still dosent run I'm at a loss. I love this blaster she's all mine I dont wanna lose her to something I cant think of that's wrong with her. Thanks guys your the best:(:-[:(
 
did you do leak down test mine wouldnt start when i had a major airleak. (bad crank seals)
 
No I dont have one that's about the only thing I dont have and or done. IDK I hope not it's supposed to have a new hotrods crank and seals in her earlier this summer. SI I'll check that tonight when their's no good tv on. I really hope not their literally brand new I just got them 2 weeks ago with out a single ride on them only 1 start up with them on. But I'll check and post when I do.
 
check your reeds, it sounds like one may have come apart.

No their perfectly intact and there's a little bit of fuel coating them. Which naturally leads me to believe there's fuel getting to the engine as well :) it couldent be the magneto could it:-/ I mean that's generally a part that rarely needs replaceing is int it. Side thought would a weak kick spring be the blame by not providing enough rotation when kicked turning the kick/starter gear? I mean there's no slop in the kick after I (re-sproinged/coiled) it tighter now but it was the only realistic problem at the time and I just assumed I fixed it. I mean there's no problems it's better now and more well more but it still started before so whats different. AAAha thanks again..........................
 
alright, Pull your spark plug out of the head, stick it back in the boot, and lay the threads against something metal on the engine. Kick the engine over and look for nice blue spark.

open the service manual to the electrical section and get out your multimeter and start troubleshooting. Start with the spark plug boot and work your way backwards to the CDI. The last part on the list is the CDI but before you go buying a new CDI, pull the flywheel off and make sure the keyway is still intact. A sheared key will spark (so you think the ignition system is working) and all continuity checks check out OK but it won't run for anything...
 
Since you had your reeds apart you need to air leak test it anyway. My bike had a horrible air leak and it would not start. Had the same semptoms that yours does. I wouldnt risk a motor over a 25$ leak down test.
 
alright, Pull your spark plug out of the head, stick it back in the boot, and lay the threads against something metal on the engine. Kick the engine over and look for nice blue spark.

open the service manual to the electrical section and get out your multimeter and start troubleshooting. Start with the spark plug boot and work your way backwards to the CDI. The last part on the list is the CDI but before you go buying a new CDI, pull the flywheel off and make sure the keyway is still intact. A sheared key will spark (so you think the ignition system is working) and all continuity checks check out OK but it won't run for anything...
First part I used a true plug tester the kind with the clamp ends to test it while attached the the cooling fin I have a great consistant purpleish blue spark. I 'm going to work tomorrow tograb some stuff so I will grab the multimeeter and screwdriver one as well( Icant think off the top of my head what it's called I just know how to use it. As well as look for my Y prong flywheel puller and of corse do that as a last resort.
Since you had your reeds apart you need to air leak test it anyway. My bike had a horrible air leak and it would not start. Had the same semptoms that yours does. I wouldnt risk a motor over a 25$ leak down test.
Yea I've had it happen once to my buddies blaster once it can be a royal pain in the ass especially when your pretty shure you know what happened but he dosent listen to you and nearly blows up another one but he didnt thank god. I dont know very much about them I'll ask my dad if he has one (mabey) It's not that I dont want a new one or can find one. I'm flat broke anyway because I'm about $35 away to buying some norman spindles real soon. But If i dont I know who to go to (slickerthanyou).
Thanks you 2 'll of corse post something when I get to it tomorrow afternoon or so.