DKavcak

Member
Nov 6, 2019
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Blakeslee, PA
So, let me start off by saying I'm an idiot and I should have measured the offset of my wheels beforehand.

Now that we have that out of the way, I bought a set of 10" x 5" .190 ITP's for my Blaster the other day.

I had bought a used set of aluminum wheels for $140 about a month ago that had 10" x 8" ITP rear's with usable tires and some stock Yamaha fronts that were totally trashed.

The wheels I got had 4/1 offset rather than the stock 3/2.
I mocked them up and noticed that I've got about 9/16" clearance from the inner barrel of the wheel to the upper ball joint, but the wheel sits in quite far over the control arms.

I realize you can flip the wheels around, but I'm not sure how long the wheels would last before they start to bend. A lot of trails by me are ONLY RIVER ROCKS. They can and will destroy you and your suspension.

I know you can run a spacer to offset the offset (hehe, that sounds funny), however, that puts extra wear on your suspension components.

So in summary I have two questions:
1.) Would it be better to flip my front wheels and rely on the tensile strength of the nuts/bolts and the strength of the wheel for very gnarly trail riding?
2.) Do they make a 1" to 1.25" spacer out of aluminum or something that's very light that will not put extra stress on the spindle and suspension components?
 
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=banshee+lug+nuts&ref=is_s

Theoretically the tire should be centered to the ball joint.
The wheel won’t be prone to any more or less damage no matter how you mount it, spaced or flipped. I don’t know how much more stress or wear it puts on the joint when the wheel is pushed out. Maybe 2” spacers and deep offset might not be good.
IMHO I’d flip the wheels and just run it, wider is less tippy
 
X2 flip them. Studs and nuts where designed to be more than safe for stock setup.look at the offset of alot of back wheels.
 
Hey guys, so I ran them flipped for the entire weekend without issue.
I gotta say, I like the look of it. I'll post a picture after I'm home from work today.

All I've got to sort out is refreshing all the control arm bushings, ball joints, and figure out this goofy running issue I've got once it's hot. I've got roughly 20 hours on the top-end and I notice some pinging once I hit 3rd gear if I'm more than full throttle. I'll probably take my carb off tonight or tomorrow to clean my main jet and just see if the oil clotted or something.
 
Hey guys, so I ran them flipped for the entire weekend without issue.
I gotta say, I like the look of it. I'll post a picture after I'm home from work today.

All I've got to sort out is refreshing all the control arm bushings, ball joints, and figure out this goofy running issue I've got once it's hot. I've got roughly 20 hours on the top-end and I notice some pinging once I hit 3rd gear if I'm more than full throttle. I'll probably take my carb off tonight or tomorrow to clean my main jet and just see if the oil clotted or something.
Cant change ball joints on stock a arms. Better pull plug and check it.you getting detonation?
 
Cant change ball joints on stock a arms. Better pull plug and check it.you getting detonation?
No. I just replaced the coil. The plug isn't white or carbon coated. If anything, it's a smidge wet, despite it being totally stock jetting.

Also, here's what my Blaster looks like with the flipped ITP's.
IMG_20200106_2054418.jpg
 
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