What to do ?

meangreen

New Member
Aug 24, 2009
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ok,so i just got my old blaster back,and it needs a new top end. I have no clus what the bore is as of now,and the piston has nothing engraved on top of it.
I am just wanting to get it back running for a month or 2 untill i move to wyoming for college (i will leave the blaster in AR) then when i get back i plan on modding the hell outa it.
So my first question is,what does a stock bore spec out at ?then what is what would be a good piston kit ie. piston,rings,gaskets,rod bearing,wrist pen,and R/P clips ? How much would said kit cost ?
Also could i myself do enuff of a port/polish to make a noticable difference ? I have done alot of port/polish jobs on chevy engines from 4cyl iron dukes to weekend race 383's with VERY good results. BUT i do know that the 2 stroke engine is a beast of it's own. I saw the sticky on porting, but i am looking for some tips from the pro's on here....even if it's "DON'T TRY IT"
Any help would be great.
Thanx
 
when i was unsure about if my sons lakota 300 even needed bored i took the jug and my piston to the machine shop that does my boring and provided him with the piston and bore specs and he micrometered it for me and told me to go .20 over, so heres the specs for a stock blaster, bore: 66mm and piston:65.96, <stock, although the bore should have 3 different measurements at 3 different heights, thats the top one
piston oversizes 1st: 66.25 and 2nd: 66.50
give them to him, or if ya have the micrometers do it yourself and that'll determine how big ya gotta go oversize, my guess is that a no marking piston is stock?? and i'd get the wiseco forged piston kit
but the one i got didnt come with a wrist pin and clips, so keep an eye out for that, i saw woodward specialties on here just had them on sale, look in the advertising section, or look on ebay, and there are some porting write ups in the diy section , do a search on here
and do a search for the manual download on here, thats where i got this info, it'll help ya alot with this and torque specs
good luck bro
 
I have a few more questions as well. My carb is missing the screw that goes on the filter side just to the right of the fuel inlet,what is this screw,and where can i get one ? Another question, a buddy of mine has a 99' (i think) blaster that is all stock aside form a .030 overbore....after he rebuilt it, it wouldn start so he pulled it,and pulled it. Finally it started but was WEEK. And white smoke rolled out of the tailpipe like ya'll could never imagine. He continued to ride the crap outa it and these days it runs fine with just a fain trail of blue smoke and has plenty of power (for a blaster) any idea's on what was goin on with the white smoke screen for the first week ?
 
the only answer i can give you outta those is that the screw your talkin 'bout is the air mixture screw, and i just found out it's way cheaper to order a whole rebuild kit, $15, than it is to try and order one carb part, i was just told $58 for a float valve, but it comes in the $15 kit, that makes no sense, so i ordered the kit, as for the white smoke that usually means a crank seal, but if it cleared up it musta sealed itself somehow, unless he's outta oil, better check that window on the clutch side to make sure theres oil between the lines, and your gonna have to hear from someone else "bout that bore size, like i said i took mine to the machine shop and they told me what size on the lakota
 
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i figured out that it comes to a 40 over bore plus .05 ? Anyway, i called my local re builder with that figure,and he said that it would probably come out 40 over on his tool's , because mine aren't exactly "high end" . Any way i took him the cylinder he took a look at it and said that he would get a new piston and rings hit the cylinder with a "bottle brush", or a hone just to give the new rings something "new" to seat into,and run it. His explanation was that the bike didn't even run long enuff to mess up the old bore job-Probably due to a bad tune,or not mixing the fuel properly.
 
id order the piston and rings, and have him recheck it with the ring installed in the cylinder then check the ring end gap, or to be safe get a .50 piston kit and just rebore the cylinder, then you know for sure what ya have, good luck
 
why spend $45 extra bucks to punch it out,when he said it would be fine ? He builds/races quads for a living i wouldn think he would tell me to run it if it needed gone over gaining him $45. Who has the fastest shipping on a wisco piston kit ?
 
haha, i forgot about this thread. But for those that have already caught my mistake,i am not really that dumn. I was just running on no sleep,and my machinist should have figured out that i had a made a mistake.And it was NOT just that my tools were inaccurate.
67.05 is the same as .050 which boys and girls is 67.50 or .50 THOUSANDTHS overbore.
I feel like a moron for overlooking that simple decimal place....
Anyhow,i guess i will order a piston now.