I have just recently turned my blaster into a
50 over stage 2 dynajet blaster what size is my engine and how fast should it be :-/
50 over stage 2 dynajet blaster what size is my engine and how fast should it be :-/
what size is it now?
- Thread starter batblaster
- Start date
2ccs larger, maybe, and the tyre size and sprocket combo would help in determining the overall speed.
Sorry new to this i have 20 inch tires on it i was gonna put 18 inch on it not sure about the sprocket i know its stock tho
our experiences on here show those "stage" jet kits to be less than stellar, you may actually be slower if the jetting wasn't properly adjusted for the mods done...pipe, airfilter, air lid off, ect. ect.
to just throw bigger jets in it because some company says it'll make you faster is bogus.
jetting must be done through a series of steps and plug chops to fine tune it for each modification you do that effects airflow in or out of the engine.
list what jets you "threw" in the carb, and all the mods done to the bike ?
and no...boring it .10, .20 .50 or any amount over does not count, as it barely adds any power
to just throw bigger jets in it because some company says it'll make you faster is bogus.
jetting must be done through a series of steps and plug chops to fine tune it for each modification you do that effects airflow in or out of the engine.
list what jets you "threw" in the carb, and all the mods done to the bike ?
and no...boring it .10, .20 .50 or any amount over does not count, as it barely adds any power
I went through the steps before installing i removed the air box lid i installed the 350 main jet and i replaced the accelerator needle
#350 main seems much too large a jet.
If you got a jet kit. chuck the needle that came in it as far up the garden path as you can, it will not do any good in a stock carb.
If you got a jet kit. chuck the needle that came in it as far up the garden path as you can, it will not do any good in a stock carb.
Welcome to the dirt pile !!I:I
Blasters have slide needles. Because some jet kits use their own numbering system we have no way to tell if you are even close to being correct
If someone doesn't give dirrections for or linc to plug chop you'll have to do a search yourself.
O, what the heck, you're a new guy, I'll be nice :Let me google that for you
Blasters have slide needles. Because some jet kits use their own numbering system we have no way to tell if you are even close to being correct
If someone doesn't give dirrections for or linc to plug chop you'll have to do a search yourself.
O, what the heck, you're a new guy, I'll be nice :Let me google that for you
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
