I am about to rebuild the top end on my 2002 blaster. It is gonna be bored .080, and I was just wondering is there anything I should know before I do it? I have heard there's a certain way to place the piston rings. Is this true? Does a certain one go on top and bottom and does a certain side need to be facing up on the rings? Thanks for any input.
top end rebuild
- Thread starter Billy
- Start date
complete engine rebuild vids, including top end
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/kor-engine-assembly-vids-no-crank-puller-needed.51169/
leakdown tests
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/videos-how-perform-air-leakdown-test-31464/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/building-leakdown-tester-33304/
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/leak-down-tester-video-33349/
break-in procedure, then retorque head/base nuts after final cooldown
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ke-must-be-done-after-a-top-end-rebuild.4399/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/kor-engine-assembly-vids-no-crank-puller-needed.51169/
leakdown tests
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/videos-how-perform-air-leakdown-test-31464/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/building-leakdown-tester-33304/
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/leak-down-tester-video-33349/
break-in procedure, then retorque head/base nuts after final cooldown
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ke-must-be-done-after-a-top-end-rebuild.4399/
Is the 80 over bore needed to clean up the ccylinder, or are you doing it for power increase? Whats the bore size now? You do realize that at 80 over that cylinder is done, there is no more. They make a 90 over but they are hard to find an in my opinion your running the wall is very thin an will run hot due to less material to absorb an dissipate heat
Yes I do realize that. The bore is .060 over now and it needs bored to .080. I'm about to buy an extra motor because I know that cylinder will be pretty much done.
Sorry to reply again, but would the rings being in upside down cause the kick starter to get stuck. Mine is pretty much stuck. I put it back to together and it started for a minute and then the kick starter is extremely hard to move. Could that be because the rings are up side down or the rings are bad or it needs bored or what? I'm just hoping it's not the crank
Ok cool man, i just see alot of peopletake a stock or lightly bore cylinder an wack it straight to 80 cause they think its gonna be more powerful, an it definitely not, big power isnt made with bigger bore size unless its extremely bigger.Billy post: 736063 said:
Or did you not do a leak test?
Why did you post that you were going to do a rebuild if you had already done it, makes no sense to me.
What you should have posted is that you have done a rebuild and want to know if you had done it right.
Then did you leak test?
Posted 51 minutes before my reply!
What you should have posted is that you have done a rebuild and want to know if you had done it right.
Then did you leak test?
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No I did not. I am new to this whole thing but I work on my own vehicles and can't stand the though of paying someone to fix my stuff so I want to fix it myself.
So come clean, what do you want to know, start afresh stating your problems so that we can get our teeth into the matter and get you up an running soon.
We are here to help but need to know the full story!
We are here to help but need to know the full story!
Well I put it back together because a friend of mine said the piston and everything looked good to him. But I already ordered a top end kit and plan on rebuilding it with that kit
The motor is together right now. Bored .060 but the kick starter is extremely hard to move. I have a .080 top end kit and plan on rebuilding it with that kit. I want to know why the kocm starter is so hard to move. That's all. Could it be because of the rings being in wrong or the rings being bad or what?
Does the kicker spin the engine freely when the jug is off? Perhaps theres an issue under clutch cover if it still dont kick free with no jug
All clear now, Awk08 posted some very good instructional vids from the Guru, follow them and all will be well.
After rebuild leak test to see if it is airtight.
Good luck and I apologise for giving you a hard time, but you confused me.
After rebuild leak test to see if it is airtight.
Good luck and I apologise for giving you a hard time, but you confused me.
Oh yes, very free! But do not kick it you can do damage, rotate the crank by hand.
The bearings are possibly shot!
if the piston is facing the right way it should not get stuck..if you put piston in backwards then yes the rings will get stuck on the exhasut port...they have pins on the piston where they line up on both rings...also do not mix match rings if it is wiseco piston then only use wiseco rings...ect
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