how hard is it? how hard is it to mess up? what ports will need to be "ported" im having the stock cylinder head rechambered for stock porting and stock stroke so is there any ports that will need to be matched to that specifically?
thinkin about DIY porting
- Thread starter 89blaster89
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Time, patience, good burrs/stones/dremel and a steady hand, you will be fine.
Joeak47 can poss put you onto some templates, I will email you a little info.
Joeak47 can poss put you onto some templates, I will email you a little info.
I feel that this may not be man enough for the job, you possibly could do it but it would take a long time and you would go through a heap of abrasive.
Burrs are cutters used for removing large amounts of material, stones as in grinding are for cleaning up/finishing and polishing.
i could make it work i think, my grandpa may have have more dremel accerories to go with it
Another drawback is that the cutter is close to the casing, when you are in the port there will not be enough room to see where the tool is cutting.
You will do a much better job with a tool with an extension,.
You will do a much better job with a tool with an extension,.
A little better but still only 1/8" shaft size, 3/16 or 1/4 would be so much better.
It takes a fair amount of sideways pressure to port.
It takes a fair amount of sideways pressure to port.
Home
Start HERE:http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/cylinder-porting-diy-25773/
BE AWARE that a little is a lot. For your first "job" don't go crazy, clean up any flaws, casting boogers. No sudden changes in size. Lots to do at base of cyl where alum and liner meet, without knife edging the sleeve it should be a straight, smooth surface to the transfer port bottoms, think of it as a funnel. For now don't change shape/size of transfer openings into cyl. On the ex, you could widen it a hair, 1/16 or less per side, UNLESS you can do it symetrical, then don't widen. Top of ex may get raised slightly just with little bit that may need blending, this is where a little is a lot, way to easy to turn your jug into scrap.
On the pipe side starting at flange open it to inside diameter of ex gasket, working back towards ex port, again NO SUDDEN CHANGES in size, nice smooth, even.
Next, search the site for pics and go here :Images of two stroke porting - Google Search
Clic the linc with the boobs, on the page you get to lower right side is a linc to Gorden Jennings book on two stroke tuning.
Those H.F. tools will do the job, but it will take time, Dremel isn't much faster but you can get a flex shaft for it. Go here too ccspecialtytool.com | Porting Tools Pay Off
My first port job was done with a 1/4 drill , and a bunch of die makers files. Took forever, but then, that was forever ago...................
Here, you'll get to the boob pic and forget everything :Gordon Jennings Two-Stroke Tuner's Handbook | Two Stroke Engine Tuning
Start HERE:http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/cylinder-porting-diy-25773/
BE AWARE that a little is a lot. For your first "job" don't go crazy, clean up any flaws, casting boogers. No sudden changes in size. Lots to do at base of cyl where alum and liner meet, without knife edging the sleeve it should be a straight, smooth surface to the transfer port bottoms, think of it as a funnel. For now don't change shape/size of transfer openings into cyl. On the ex, you could widen it a hair, 1/16 or less per side, UNLESS you can do it symetrical, then don't widen. Top of ex may get raised slightly just with little bit that may need blending, this is where a little is a lot, way to easy to turn your jug into scrap.
On the pipe side starting at flange open it to inside diameter of ex gasket, working back towards ex port, again NO SUDDEN CHANGES in size, nice smooth, even.
Next, search the site for pics and go here :Images of two stroke porting - Google Search
Clic the linc with the boobs, on the page you get to lower right side is a linc to Gorden Jennings book on two stroke tuning.
Those H.F. tools will do the job, but it will take time, Dremel isn't much faster but you can get a flex shaft for it. Go here too ccspecialtytool.com | Porting Tools Pay Off
My first port job was done with a 1/4 drill , and a bunch of die makers files. Took forever, but then, that was forever ago...................
Here, you'll get to the boob pic and forget everything
:Gordon Jennings Two-Stroke Tuner's Handbook | Two Stroke Engine Tuning
Listen carefully to what Larry said.
Less is more if you don't know. Clean up the flaws, match the sleeve to the port.
Small mistakes, especially at the port window can really mess up your power or reliability.
If you want to learn, READ-READ-READ the experts. Pay $30 for their books, they are publishe because they know.
Jennings, Gorr, Smith, Bell, and others, BUY THEIR BOOKS before you cut.
Like Blaaster says, 1/8" shaft tools don't cut it.
Not enough power, not enough length, not enough diameter. You need a 1/4" die grinder and good carbide bits to cut the steel sleeve.
If you are going to buy the books and the proper tools and do this for a lifetime hobby, DO IT!
But if you are looking for power on the cheap, forget it.
Cheapest way to good porting is to get an expert to do it for you.
First of all the odds are pretty much 75% you are going to screw it up because 3/4 of the port jobs I've seen are screwed up.
Hell, 3/4s of the port jobs I've done were just experiments leading to better jobs later.
I bet any professional builder will admit the same before they found out what works.
It took lots and lots of work and lots of mistakes on their own coin to learn.
Ken O'Conner has been doing this for years, and is known to be good at it.
I have been test driving a cylinder by JoeAK47 and it works! (more on that later) He knows what he is doing.
If you can get him to do a head cut or cylinder port for you, I recommend him.
There are other builders recommended on here, Floteck comes to mind.
These guys know what they are doing, have done a lot of it, if you want quick, cheap power.
Think about it, if you mess up a cylinder, what does a new one cost?
You can do some careful clean up, if you don't make any mistakes.
Blaner experimented with raising the cylinder with a spacer to raise the rpm and power. It works!
You have to cut the head to match but you pretty much have to cut a Blaster head anyway. Stock Blaster chamber sucks.
My opinions,
Steve...
Less is more if you don't know. Clean up the flaws, match the sleeve to the port.
Small mistakes, especially at the port window can really mess up your power or reliability.
If you want to learn, READ-READ-READ the experts. Pay $30 for their books, they are publishe because they know.
Jennings, Gorr, Smith, Bell, and others, BUY THEIR BOOKS before you cut.
Like Blaaster says, 1/8" shaft tools don't cut it.
Not enough power, not enough length, not enough diameter. You need a 1/4" die grinder and good carbide bits to cut the steel sleeve.
If you are going to buy the books and the proper tools and do this for a lifetime hobby, DO IT!
But if you are looking for power on the cheap, forget it.
Cheapest way to good porting is to get an expert to do it for you.
First of all the odds are pretty much 75% you are going to screw it up because 3/4 of the port jobs I've seen are screwed up.
Hell, 3/4s of the port jobs I've done were just experiments leading to better jobs later.
I bet any professional builder will admit the same before they found out what works.
It took lots and lots of work and lots of mistakes on their own coin to learn.
Ken O'Conner has been doing this for years, and is known to be good at it.
I have been test driving a cylinder by JoeAK47 and it works! (more on that later) He knows what he is doing.
If you can get him to do a head cut or cylinder port for you, I recommend him.
There are other builders recommended on here, Floteck comes to mind.
These guys know what they are doing, have done a lot of it, if you want quick, cheap power.
Think about it, if you mess up a cylinder, what does a new one cost?
You can do some careful clean up, if you don't make any mistakes.
Blaner experimented with raising the cylinder with a spacer to raise the rpm and power. It works!
You have to cut the head to match but you pretty much have to cut a Blaster head anyway. Stock Blaster chamber sucks.
My opinions,
Steve...
Jennings is free online to read.
As to "Builder" mistakes, don't hold your breath waiting for that admission.
Do what Ken shows in the vid, and you'll be good to go for the first round. And should hold you till you educate yourself as to the what, why, and hows of porting. Hopefully you have seen the pics of bad porting, as well as the good ones.
Search on this forum. I know that Best/ tripple Crown have posted some good threads on it. Nastyracing (or something like that) has some good ideas.
Be sure to post some pics of your work. After you read some material, post up your thoughts or questions about it.
I:I
As to "Builder" mistakes, don't hold your breath waiting for that admission
.Do what Ken shows in the vid, and you'll be good to go for the first round. And should hold you till you educate yourself as to the what, why, and hows of porting. Hopefully you have seen the pics of bad porting, as well as the good ones.
Search on this forum. I know that Best/ tripple Crown have posted some good threads on it. Nastyracing (or something like that) has some good ideas.
Be sure to post some pics of your work. After you read some material, post up your thoughts or questions about it.
I:I
Here's a builder mistake right here! Don't do this...
BAD...Very BAD!
There a few inexspensive cylinders on ebay right now that have a chunk taken out of the cylinder liner. They're junk. They're like $40. I recommend getting one of these and practicing your cutting skills.THEN Cut that sucker apart (in half,then in quarters,then cut it again) to see how all the ports work. Dissect it! this is how you learn. Its fun once you start. When you feel confident,give it a shot on your own cylinder. If you screw up,remember that a good useable cylinder minus the piston is about $100
BAD...Very BAD!
There a few inexspensive cylinders on ebay right now that have a chunk taken out of the cylinder liner. They're junk. They're like $40. I recommend getting one of these and practicing your cutting skills.THEN Cut that sucker apart (in half,then in quarters,then cut it again) to see how all the ports work. Dissect it! this is how you learn. Its fun once you start. When you feel confident,give it a shot on your own cylinder. If you screw up,remember that a good useable cylinder minus the piston is about $100
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What I mean is shops like Flotec, HJR, K&T, KOR. I would refuse to run that cyl no matter who ported it
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