Still can't get it to start!!!!!!

[Boombiladi]

Hey guys, I know I'm a pain but I'm confused. For those who don't know, I got a basket case and pieced together a quad. After a lot of time, work, and money I can't get it to start. I need some help or tips. So here it goes, I got good compression and spark. I replaced all the seals in the bottom end, all the gaskets, new spark plug, cleaned the carb, Im running out of ideas. There are only two issues I can think of.... 1 is when they deleted the oil pump they didn't do anything to plug the oil lines at the pump and nothing was done to the carb.... 2 if I leave the fuel on when trying to start it, it flows out of the left tube coming out of the carb. I didnt do a leak down test, I just replaced everything instead lol the reeds look good although they don't sit flush against the reed block, they are slightly gapped but I was told that was fine. If you have any tips that would be very appreciated.

 

[Trinityblaster]

Are the reeds stock? The reeds need to sit flush or they let air in when it is not needed. That is what I have been told.

 

[Blaaster]

A little gap in the petals should not hinder starting too much.

Is thev plug very wet when you pull it out and have you tried a new one, flooded plugs do no often work well.

The carby should not over flow, clean the carb really well and set the float level.

 

[Boombiladi]

Ok cool, I'll pick up new reeds. And as for setting the float I don't know how to do that... I'll do research to find out. Thanks guys.

 

[Trinityblaster]

Also did you check the float to see if it had any air leaks?and nobody is a pain on here.

 

[Blaaster]

Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. No TORS the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .

Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.

WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/

This is a good to go plug.

This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.

 

[Awk08]

try a new plug (even a new one can foul very quickly, especially when flooding)

here's float help.......
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/easy-almost-free-way-stop-leaky-carbs-33335/

http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/

then airscrew/pilot adjustment...
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/

if that stops the flooding, airscrew is set to around 1.5 turns out and it still won't start, we're gonna have to start checking for an electrical issue

does it have good strong blue spark ?

you can probably flip the reed petals to close that gap, but as stated, it should still start, engine pressure will normally puch them closed

 

[Boombiladi]

Ok... I will get a leak down tester just to be safe... As for the plug it has never ben ran just tried to start with it in after I bought it. But I'll get a new one And I tried adjusting the air screw but I can't really get a good adjustment until I get her running. but 1.5 turns out is where I have it set now. It does have the tors unit on top of the carb but it's not hooked up with the wires. I hope reeds, float adjustment gets it going. I'm pulling my hair out at this point. About the only thing I haven't replaced is the reeds and top end. But ive got plenty of compression and the jug poston and rings looked great

 

[Boombiladi]

Yea I had good spark.... I'll flip the pedals before I buy new ones. See if that works...

 

[Blaaster]

If the crancase is full of gas and oil it will be a swine to start, pull the plug out, drain the carby and kick a lot of times WOT to help push the old gas in the crancase.

Leave the plug out until you try to start it.

 

[Awk08]

If the crancase is full of gas and oil it will be a swine to start, pull the plug out, drain the carby and kick a lot of times WOT to help push the old gas in the crancase.

Leave the plug out until you try to start it.

good point /\ if it has been flooding badly.
sometimes pulling it around in like 3rd/4th gear with plug out, fuel off, carb drained is required to clear the cases of flooded fuel.

check that oil injection nipple on the carb is blocked off with piece of hose and screw/rtv, or 1/8" vacuum cap.
brass nipple located at top/rear of kicker side of carb,

 

[95back2life]

U say u cleaned the carb? I would clean it again. Did u take out the very small jet inside and make sure it is not plugged?

 

[Larry's Shee]

U say u cleaned the carb? I would clean it again. Did u take out the very small jet inside and make sure it is not plugged?

^^^ pilot jet . http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/easy-almost-free-way-stop-leaky-carbs-33335/

Also after cleaning/adjusting, with bowl off lightly hold float up, with fuel on, to make sure it stops flow. If not it could be bad needle OR the O-ring on the outside of needle valve seat.

 

[blasterdemon7]

Make sure you unplug the coil ! Turning a flooded motor over with no plug can shoot out fuel that can ignite from the spark of the plug wire. You will then be singing ' hunk of burning love 'lol.

 

[Blaaster]

Stop switch and key switch works as well, they kill the spark.

 

[blasterdemon7]

Stop switch and key switch works as well, they kill the spark.

That's true but I feel that unplugging the coil is more foolproof.

 

[Blaaster]

To be sure, to be sure!

 

[Boombiladi]

Ok!!! Awesome, you guys are awesome. As for fuel in the bottom end I don't think there is any but I'll follow your tips to be sure. I'm in the middle of moving so I won't get to work on it tonight, but I'll start with the carb. That seems most logical, and also flip the petals and throw a new plug in.... I really appreciate the support and positivity. I bought a rolling blast frame and a locked up bottom end motor and bought piece by piece everything else, cables, handles, sprockets chain, etc it's just getting up there in price

 

[DLK666]

Ok!!! Awesome, you guys are awesome. As for fuel in the bottom end I don't think there is any but I'll follow your tips to be sure. I'm in the middle of moving so I won't get to work on it tonight, but I'll start with the carb. That seems most logical, and also flip the petals and throw a new plug in.... I really appreciate the support and positivity. I bought a rolling blast frame and a locked up bottom end motor and bought piece by piece everything else, cables, handles, sprockets chain, etc it's just getting up there in price

Try take out your petrol weiner from the tank, i had a problem with my carb constantly overflowing and i had cleaned the carb 100 times, turns out some sticky gunk was on the tubes that extend up from the petcock and causing my float to stick, try that if cleaning your carb doesnt help, and itd probly help to get a fuel filter just incase....

 

[Boombiladi]

Ok cool, I'll get a fuel filter, but I know the tubes are clean. I had already cleaned the tank and pulled the petcock just to be sure, but thanks for the tip.