it may seem like a stupid question but what plugs is a blaster supposed to use? :-/ i run a BR9ES
spark plug
- Thread starter Blaster95-97
- Start date
i use a b8es i think the br9es and br8es are the Resistor plugs ive heard the 03+ models should use those and lower models should use the b8es.
alright. well my blaster isn't running right now (stripped a/f screw X( ) but when it is running i'll try my brothers plugs. he runs a BR8ES in his yz250, both of our bikes are 97s
B8ES is the correct plug to use, a BR8ES has an internal resistor and is designed to suppress electrical noise in TV and radio reception.
ok, well does it hurt the motor to run a br8es or br9es? because i just bought 2 brand new br9es plugs about a month ago
Spark plugs arnt that expensive, i suggest going to the store and buying a couple more... Depending on where you got them, you might be able to exchange them if you havent put them in the quad yet
Use a B8es the 9 is too hot a plug.
Hot Plugs are SLOW to transfer their tip heat,,as well as Reaching Higher absolute temps
They reach optimum TIP temp quicker on cold start,,,and maintain that "self-cleaning temp" Longer during Decelleration.
If they are TOO Hot,,,and cool Too Slowly,,,,their Tip can reach an Auto-Ignition point.
Hot enough to ignite the fuel BEFORE actual Plug Firing occurs.
If the Tip becomes excessively Hot,,,that can create a different type of Fouling.
It can Glaze various chemicals in the oil/fuel into a NON-conductive "insulation" on the Plug Tip,,,
OR into a CONDUCTIVE coating on the Tip,,which shorts out the plug
Hot Plugs are SLOW to transfer their tip heat,,as well as Reaching Higher absolute temps
They reach optimum TIP temp quicker on cold start,,,and maintain that "self-cleaning temp" Longer during Decelleration.
If they are TOO Hot,,,and cool Too Slowly,,,,their Tip can reach an Auto-Ignition point.
Hot enough to ignite the fuel BEFORE actual Plug Firing occurs.
If the Tip becomes excessively Hot,,,that can create a different type of Fouling.
It can Glaze various chemicals in the oil/fuel into a NON-conductive "insulation" on the Plug Tip,,,
OR into a CONDUCTIVE coating on the Tip,,which shorts out the plug
that's a very important thing to know. so no more br9es. but running the resistor itself, does it hurt the engine? because i ride right in the middle of a populated area
ok, noted and i will never buy the br9es again! probably why i don't get good power band I:I
The br9es is possibly not the culprit if a problem exists with power, have you plug chopped to confirm the jetting?
When was the last time you leak tested, it should be done at least twice a season?
i havn't leak tested yet, but my father has done mechanics and he's able to tell when there's a leak. he said i would lose power and my idle would change. now that i have money i'm gonna build or buy a leak tester.also everything is stock on the bike and i'm running a 230 mj and stock pilot
I don't care how many mechanics a person has done, the only way to tell if it is leak free is to test it.
A clogged air filter/ blocked jet/incorrect float level/stale fuel/change in temperature and many more problems will cause a power loss and a change in idle.
If you are running a #230 main, is it a bog stock motor with absolutely no mods?
yes it's bone stock. no mods at all. haven't had the money to upgrade. but now i do. i'm gonna get it to pull better with a new filter, oil injection block off and a new pipe and silencer. still haven't decided on the pipe. and the filter. i have scrap aluminum that's clean, and i want to make a stock airfilter box out of aluminum with no lid. cheap easy mods to make it pull better.
as for the leak tester, who sells them on here?
little bit of an update. i got a moose racing carb rebuild kit and now it's running again. i needed the a/f mixture needle. and i ran with the br8es and my mototr ran alot cooler! I:I
