Well i came home from college yesterday and wanted to ride my blaster, im riding it for about 25 mins and im doing donuts and riding around in some dunes. i am riding across the dunes and it just putts and stalls. i try to start it a few times, let it rest, then did it a few more times and then it started. i drove it about 100 yards and it locks up and it just slides to a stop. i moved it back and forth and got it into neutral to start it, it wouldnt start. plenty of gas and oil, when i put it in first and try to push it with the clutch in, its hard as hell but it does move, when in neutral, moved very easily. at first the kick wouldnt go all the way down, and then eventually it loosened up. any input would be really appreciated because i just bought it about 6 weeks ago and i would really like to fix it when i get home. thanks guys
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- Thread starter BigElli04
- Start date
are you still running the oil injection? sounds like it was heat seizure. since it unlocked after a little while. this is usually due to an air leak or lack of oil.
yes i still have oil injection. but i do have another question, the oil on the right side by the kick, do i put oil in there too? cuz that might also have been the problem.....i put a little engine oil in there but idk if that could have been the problem or not. also when i kick it it like makes a noise where it sounds like a lot of air is getting pushed out and it does that like every 5 kicks
oh no! that is not a good noise man. i'm sorry to say but everytime that has happened to me my top end was shot. hopefully that isn't the case with you. wet clutch oil is best. fourstoke motorcycle oil. it has additives for a wet clutch. you should empty that and put in the amount it says right there by the cap. you are putting 2 stroke oil in the oil tank under the seat right? not calling you stupid or anything but you never know.
top end time.
2 stroke are like owning a pet lion. you need to learn the proper care and feeding of a lion before you get one. If you just get a pet lion with no idea how to take care of it, and screw up, it will get pissed and take a bite out of your azz. your blaster has bit you.
2 stroke are like owning a pet lion. you need to learn the proper care and feeding of a lion before you get one. If you just get a pet lion with no idea how to take care of it, and screw up, it will get pissed and take a bite out of your azz. your blaster has bit you.
ut oh! you just got the ultimate confirmation. sorry about your luck. now start asking quesitons about a topend rebuild and oil injection block off kits.
sh*t....well yes i am putting the 2 stroke oil under the seat. why do i need to block it off if i put a new top end on? and why does the top end have anything to do with my first gear being rough? and by wet clutch what do you mean? im sorry if they are stupid questions, but i really wanna get this thing fixed
the oil injection system is unreliable. they quit all the time. if it quits your piston and crank get no oil. if your piston and crank get no oil they seize. hence what probably happened to you. an oil injection block off kit is pretty cheap like 20 bucks.
first gear was rough because the piston was scraping against the cylinder wall because it had no lubrication.
you have a "wet clutch" a manual car has a dry clutch(no oil) a wet clutch is inside the transmition where the oil is. some people use automatic transmition fluid in their blaster transmition. no such thing as a stupid quesiton here.
you should probably start taking the top end off when you get a chance. if you don't know how to work on stuff a blaster is a good place to start they are pretty simple. go on ebay and buy yourself a clymers manual for the blaster it will help you a lot.
first gear was rough because the piston was scraping against the cylinder wall because it had no lubrication.
you have a "wet clutch" a manual car has a dry clutch(no oil) a wet clutch is inside the transmition where the oil is. some people use automatic transmition fluid in their blaster transmition. no such thing as a stupid quesiton here.
you should probably start taking the top end off when you get a chance. if you don't know how to work on stuff a blaster is a good place to start they are pretty simple. go on ebay and buy yourself a clymers manual for the blaster it will help you a lot.
ok so i need to block it off, buy a top end rebuild kit, and put what kind of oil in that oil reseviour(idk how to spell it lol) i really dont wanna mess it up again so as much help as i can get would be appreciated. also, do most people who blow top end just bore it out instead of buying a regular top end?
yeah you need to get it bored out. KenOconnorracing.com is a great place to get work done. if you just send him your jug he will measure it bore it and buy you the right piston. his prices are great. he will probably do everything you need for and get you the piston for around 225-250 shipped. Yamalube 4 stroke 10w30 is a good trans oil. amsoil is a great 2 stroke oil. if you get the oil injection block off you will remove that tank. then you will mix your own oil and gas before you put it in the gas tank 32/1 mixture. that means 32 parts gas 1 part oil. yamalube 2r is a good 2stroke oil too. vitos and rockymountainatv.com have the oil injection block off kits
i use yamalube right now, but alright that sounds good. what is the difference of getting it bored and all that stuff? and what is the jug? lol god i sound like a retard i apologize. i saw a kit for 129 and a few for like 108....i take it those arent good ones?
when he said its gana be around 250 he meant with the pistion rings wrist pin gasket set ect and to gte ot bored over and honed u dont want to spend money on a new topend unless urs is outa life like he said get ahold of ken on here talk o him he wll set you straight
