so confused! need help please!

Chrisdel2001

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Apr 13, 2015
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Alright so i have a 2001 blaster, Ive rebuilt the top end about a week ago. The bike started up perfectly on second kick. Now the problem with this turd bucket is the carb, I drove it for about 2.5 hours trying to break it in but i can tell there is something off about the air to fuel. It just wasn't pulling the way i remember it pulling before it decided to blow up on me. SO i decided, let me mess with the air to fuel a little bit. I didn't realize that when i rebuilt the bike, i also gave the carb a clean and tightened the air screw in all the way. So, i unscrewed it 1.5 turns out(stock) and also put the main jet back to 230(stock). Starting it like that, the bike revved like a bat out of hell. I re -tightened the air screw all the way back in and the idle went down to normal. Seems like the bike is running to lean, but then when i try to drive it, it sputters at low rpm, smokes like a chimney, and has fouled out a couple spark plugs already. All signs of running too rich. So I'm stuck between a rock and a 2 stroke. Let me know what you guys think could be the problem! I also read a forum of a gentle men suggesting it could be an air leak some where from the reed gasket to somewhere on the carb, to spray the carb with starting fluid (outside of the carb) while its on to see if it revs up or bogs if sprayed in certain areas to see if it has a leak.
 
no spraying around with carb cleaner, wd-40, starting fluid, ect.

it must be leakdown tested properly.......

how to:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leak-down-test-video.57629/

get one here :)
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leakdown-testers.55015/


did you remove the jets and clean them thoroughly ?

set/check float height ?
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

adjust airscrew:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
 
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no spraying around with carb cleaner, wd-40, starting fluid, ect.

it must be leakdown tested properly.......

how to:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leak-down-test-video.57629/

get one here :)
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leakdown-testers.55015/


did you remove the jets and clean them thoroughly ?

set/check float height ?
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

adjust airscrew:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
I havent gotten around to doing a leak down test. the jets have all been removed and thoroughly cleaned, the float height checks out good and the air screw was turned out 1.5 turns but as soon as i would start the bike like that it would rev just about as high as it can go only way it idles even semi decent is if the air screw is fully shut at 0 turns out
 
slide installed with slot matching pin down in carb throat ?

check the routing of your throttle cable, if it was moved to/fro during the rebuild it could just be holding the slide open further than before ?
 
slide installed with slot matching pin down in carb throat ?

check the routing of your throttle cable, if it was moved to/fro during the rebuild it could just be holding the slide open further than before ?
That is what I thought as well, that's actually the first thing I checked and nope I removed the gas tank and everything to make sure the cable has plenty of room as a test and still does it. It seems as if I need to do a leak test. Only problem is with the videos I've seen the tester is for the cylinder and I'm almost 100% sure that the top end doesn't has a leak. I feel as if it's leaking somewhere in the carb area
 
just buy his, high quality!!!!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ BTW CAR LEAK TESTERS ARE NOT THE SAME
 
What size main jet was in it?
Better question would be what mods do you have??
When (If ?) you cleaned carb did you make sure compressed air would blow through all passages? What size pilot jet? Brass washer under main jet?
Starting fluid or unlit propane torch is a useful test for leaks at carb to boot or leaking slide cap.



I'd have blown my brains out Sunday if I had to use a squeeze bulb. Banshee I'm working on leaked all over. Clamps for boost bottle, carb clamps at plugs (never had issues with the plugs before) even the stupid boost bottle was leaking :mad:
Definitely not knocking his tester, but to say an auto leak tester won't work is false information. I turn compressor regulator down to about 20psi, then slowly turn regulator on tester. With Chuck on I have constant air. When all leaks are addressed I swap Chuck fitting for Schrader valve.
BTW, after 26 minutes I figured the Banshee was air tight.
Unfortunately the crank and one piston were rusted even tighter:(
 
What size main jet was in it?
Better question would be what mods do you have??
When (If ?) you cleaned carb did you make sure compressed air would blow through all passages? What size pilot jet? Brass washer under main jet?
Starting fluid or unlit propane torch is a useful test for leaks at carb to boot or leaking slide cap.
The main jet is a 230, Yes i used compressed air and it did blow through all the passages, the pilot jet is stock (i believe it is a 32.5?) the brass washer is under the main jet. Only mods I have done is an FMF Powercore silencer and a K&N filter.
 
Have you removed the TORs on the blaster? I had the exact same problem after a top end and I believe it was the new float and the removal of the TORs that finally fixed the issue. I almost bought a new carb I was so fed up with the carb....
 
Have you removed the TORs on the blaster? I had the exact same problem after a top end and I believe it was the new float and the removal of the TORs that finally fixed the issue. I almost bought a new carb I was so fed up with the carb....
Im on the same boat! i almost ordered a new carb with the tors unit deleted and an idle screw installed. all of the tors is disconnected the only thing is that big assembly that attaches to the carb is still there but the wire off of it isn't plugged in either.
 
Did you do heat cycles then retorque head and cylinder?

What elevation are you at? That filter flows more air, thus it needs more fuel.

Highly recommended to do a leakdown test after assembly and before fireing it up.