question

newtoyamaha2121

New Member
Oct 15, 2012
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can the oilinjector hose suckin air and miss with myblasters engine. mine is not injected anymore and it runs wrong could that cause it
 
yes, the injection nipple on the carb needs blocked off, with a piece of hose and screw in the end w/ a lil rtv, or an 1/8" vaccuum cap from an auto store
or it's gonna suck air and fry the piston = $$$
 
If you removed the oil injection and premix at 32:1 you also need to increase the main jet size by one, due to the oil leaning out the fuel ratio.
 
it looks like the TORS has been removed , was it running fine after that was done?
how did you disconnect the parking brake ? the parking brake has a sensor and if its still hooked up it will cause this , it won't let the engine run above idle. We need to know what modifications have been done or whats been done and when did it start doing this?
 
i dont think its the parking brake i allready set that it will run above idle but not high
all i have done was remove the tors because of the sticky throttle but it started right after that
 
An exhaust leak can make for an incorrect mix.

A fuel charge is expelled from the exhaust, and is then pushed back into the cylinder by back pressure from the exhaust. If the pipe has a leak that charge does not get rammed back in, which can result in an incomplete charge.

Have you checked the reeds?

Do not start the motor again until you have leak tested it, an air leak will soon kill the motor.

A leak test should be performed at least twice a season.

You should either remove or disable the oil injection pump, because you could have problems with it running without lubrication.
 
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When did it start to run like that? Right after removing the tors? Break this down for us. Tell us what you did to your blaster up until when the problem started.

The parking brake sensor will prevent it from reving (thats its job),so I would definitely check that. Also clean the plug,because I would believe that it would start to get fouled by now.

I'm leaning toward the parking brake sensor not being "unpluged" yet from the harness (tors removal),which would cause it to run like that,because it thinks the parking brake is still applied even though its not (you were rolling in the video).
 
yes, the injection nipple on the carb needs blocked off, with a piece of hose and screw in the end w/ a lil rtv, or an 1/8" vaccuum cap from an auto store
or it's gonna suck air and fry the piston = $$$

This is one method. When I block an intake on a carb that I know I will never use again, I like to take a lead fishing weight and tap it against the connector, it will slice of a perfect cut to plug the line, then just purchase a small cap and slide it on. Looks alot cleaner than having a hose and a screw.
 
When o bought it it would rev up and stick with the bump of the throttle
So I removed the tors I bought the kit u have do drill the idle screw in
Then I set theidle and then it started running just like hat it is all stock
Except for turtles removal
 
When o bought it it would rev up and stick with the bump of the throttle
So I removed the tors I bought the kit u have do drill the idle screw in
Then I set theidle and then it started running just like hat it is all stock
Except for turtles removal

Yes turtles can be a problem ;)

Seriously though... Its sounds to me that,without question, the parking brake switch,AND now a possible fouled plug is your problem.

Go to "Search" at the top of the page and enter "TORS removal how too" and go from there. TORS removal requires more than just replacing the carb top.
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