No low end

TheD0k69

New Member
Jan 29, 2013
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Kalamazoo Michigan
i have no low end when i first take off. but as soon as it gets going it hauls butt. is that just a two stroke thing or could i just be running rich?
btw this is my first two stroke anything so i am a newb.

Thanks for all the great help on here.
 
when u say no low end, is it barely moving it? if ur used to 4-strokes no it will not even be close to the bottom end of the 4-stroke
 
its like a comparable to driving a vtech. when it hits a certain rpm it just like hauls. and anything under that its bogging. and when taking off i have to give it a lot of gas or it will stall
 
something isnt right if you have to give alot of gas, but yes 2-strokes are kinda low power in the low rpms anyway

im not sure wht is wrong with it but someone should be able to shed some light on ur problem
 
Has the idle been set correctly?

Are you premixing gas, if so what oil and ratio?

Does any gas dribble from the carb when stopped?

A rich idle circuit can cause the crancase to retain a certain amount of oil which may cause a lack of response down low.

Do not expect a 2 stroke to pull at a low rew, it will just not happen. You have to get the motor revving up in the powerband before anything surprizing happens.
 
Might also be gearing and tires. Post what your gearing and tires are. Post any mods that you have. Could also be minor tuning issue.If you want to let the clutch out at an idle, you need a 4choker.

I see that this is your first 2smoker. You'll get used to revving it up and dumping the clutch :o I:I
 
the tires and gearing are stock and the carb leaks every once in a while. i did rebuild it a few weeks ago. it still has TORS on it so could that have gone bad? i want to buy a delete kit for it anyway.
 
Not really. But you should at least unplug the "Brain" under the hood on pre 03, 03+ you'll have to search for the method, I don't know off hand, have to splice some wires together and unplug brain. You can do the complete delete kit later. It does make it way easier to service the carb without the "brick" on top of carb though.

Mine malfunctioned in a light rain, had to stop and dry throttle housing out several times.
Stupid system can do all types of weird stuff.
 
the tires and gearing are stock and the carb leaks every once in a while. i did rebuild it a few weeks ago. it still has TORS on it so could that have gone bad? i want to buy a delete kit for it anyway.

The carb should never leak, investigate the problem, the float level could be wrong or a varnish buildup in the needle and seat assembly.

Too much fuel in the carb can really stuff up the low rev pickup, the crankcase has to be purged every time you hit the throttle at low revs.
 
its not dirty because i cleaned it very well when i rebuilt it. is there a thread on how to adjust the float height?
could it also be the needle position in the throttle?
 
ok i will have to check the needle setting when i tear it off again. could it also have to do with the screw on the side of the carb? the air mixture one i believe
 
Pilot jet/air screw controls 0- 1/8 throttle opening. But it will still affect when eithr rolling the throttle on or stabbing it quickly. How many turns on the screw are you? Lightly turn it clockwise, counting # of turns, until it just barely bottoms out. Turn it CCW back to where you were. Now you are going to "tune" it. Going no more than 1/8 turn at a time, allowing 10-20 seconds for the engine to "adjust" to the new setting (I like to also blip throttle) you are trying to get the highest idle speed possible. I sometimes "tweek it" a little during test drive. Both slow roll and stabing throttle. The closer you get to optimum, the less you turn it to see reaction of how engine likes it.

Also, if you have carb apart again, make sure air will blow through pilot jet into carb bore (checking for plugged passage).
 
its set to the factory manual setting. i think that is 1-1/4 turns... dont quote me on that though. also it doesnt want to idle at all so that is another problem. that is why i think the TORS is messed up
 
Not wanting to idle points at an air leak somewhere, has it been leak tested recently?

Stock setting for air screw is 1 1/2 turns.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .