New Guy Vito's +3 build questions

Also if you want a forged high compression piston you can get a Vito's super stock. In reality if you are getting your cylinder ported and head cut you won't need a high compression piston. If you are hell bent on a high comp piston be sure to tell your builder so he can allow for it.

Can I assume a knowledgeable builder will know how much to cut into the head if I'm just sending in the top end components? Or will they need the entire engine assembly, crank and all? I plan on doing the assembling myself because I am of modest means and have enough know how, but I'm not a machinist by any stretch.

I also figured out what pipe I have on this bike. It looks identical to this one here except no logo on the silencer:


Can anyone give me info on that? It's definitely the same pipe, has a downturn out the manifold and quite a nasty cackle. Nasty enough someone called code enforcement on me for doing donuts out back with it!

It seems like whoever had this bike prior or whoever put it together had a few pretty nice goodies to work with. Alloy wheels, extended swingarm (2"), D&G front bumper, etc. I noticed my back brake isn't a factory unit either. It says "Trenga Racing" and has two stainless lines running to the master cylinder.

At the same time the throttle cable was all kinked up. I had to order and custom cut a new one to length. They had really jimmy rigged the boot on the pro-tec manifold up using a piece of radiator hose that wasn't even tight. I was gonna order the correct one from pro-tec but the guy said all they send you is a chunk of radiator hose, hahahaha. So I went to home depot and found a 1 1/4" plumbing connector hose, complete with two clamps, took it home, chopped it in half, and it worked perfect. A bit of a tight fit between intake, carb, and airbox line, but it worked!
 
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a knowledgeable builder will require the whole engine when porting/head mod for a stroker crank, i know mine does.
anything else is just guessing as rod lengths vary slightly on even same make cranks.
we've seen squish and compression numbers off when "guessing" and if thats off, so is the port timing IMO.

F7/Trinity/Ct pipes...my favorite among the 5 i've personally tested.

post up some pics of your blaster ?
 
The pipe looks like a ct racing to me. Either way it is a right bend pipe and all are pretty close to power and jetting.

As for the builder needing the whole engine. I would install the crank yourself and send the whole motor to the builder. That way they can get the squish perfect and they can check compression before it gets back to you. I assume you want it to run on pump fuel and that will ensure your compression is exactly where you want it.
 
As for the builder needing the whole engine. I would install the crank yourself and send the whole motor to the builder. That way they can get the squish perfect and they can check compression before it gets back to you. I assume you want it to run on pump fuel and that will ensure your compression is exactly where you want it.

'Preciate all the suggestions. I been recommended the Wiseco Pro-Lite by several guys now so I think I'm gonna run one of those. I can't really afford to send the whole motor off to builder after I install the crank so there will be some guesswork in terms of the crank stroke, port work, head, and all. I'm not racing, just trying to scare myself a little more than it does already, lol.

Running 93 octane ethanol free and 32:1 with redline oil. Bel Ray gear oil in the transmission.

Any other recommendations would be cool. Reeds? Who is making a good clutch kit? Had barnetts in my bike before, they were great, but pricey. Do I need to fool with a spacer plate or anything like that?

I plan on running it as is through december-january and then tearing it down for the rebuild so I'm getting all the goodies together now.
 
I really recommend sending the whole motor. I would run v force 4 reeds and a tusk HD clutch. You are only looking at 20 or 30 more dollars to ship the whole motor. Why spend all that money in parts and not get it perfect? Do as you wish, but that is my advice.
 
My honest opinion is just spent the extra $'s and send the whole motor to your builder. I personally would not want to spend $750+ on motor work and parts, and have someone guess on my port timing, squish, etc.etc., just to save $40-$70 tops on shipping.

Reeds- Alot of guys run vforce3's-4's. I run Boysen Superstock carbons in a stock cage. Done me good so far.

Hope that helps,
Fred
 
Good choice on the piston.

I tend to be a Doubting Thomas, someone would have to prove to me that it really is a high compression piston, i.e. taller dome. On a Blaster you can choose thiner base gasket, head gasket, and milled/rechambered head.

Speaking of which, I see no mention of rechambered head on your list. Lots of power to be gained going from stock conical dome to either toridial or hemi dome. Depending on how/where you want power increase.

FYI, you get the cylinder ported, not the head.

If you only send cyl/ head off to builder you have to let him know if you are going to use the spacer plate or not for porting/head work.
 
Speaking of which, I see no mention of rechambered head on your list. Lots of power to be gained going from stock conical dome to either toridial or hemi dome. Depending on how/where you want power increase.

FYI, you get the cylinder ported, not the head.

Yeah, sorry about that. I'm used to four stroke terminology still, lol.

I want mid and top end power. Guys are saying it's only 40-70 bucks to ship the engine, but don't I need to crate it somehow? Plus return shipping. I'm a newb to the 2 stroke but are thousandths that critical when it comes to actual crank stroke, squish, and porting when it's not a full out race machine?

If you only send cyl/ head off to builder you have to let him know if you are going to use the spacer plate or not for porting/head work.

I was hoping to avoid the spacer plate unless necessary because it seems like it would be another place for a leak to develop. Someone else said flotek would have me run the spacer. Not really sure how that'll play out.
 
The way the cyl is, no plate is probably the better way. It's included in the Vito's kit so it's a simple bolt-on mod, but leaves some on the table.

I often see the argument as it's another place to leak. My thought is if you can't seal two gaskets, how is someone much better at one?

I would discuss the motor shipment with the builder. Porting the cyl is no problem, the squish clearance is, and is measured in thousands. He would do the head with a little more clearance. It may not be optimal, but nothing you would notice on the a$$ dyno.
You should still do a squish on assembly just to be certain.