New Clutch

[GraffitiDan]

So I ordered a new clutch boss, clutch plates, and a new bolt for the pressure plate. Is there any good step-by-steps on how to install a new clutch? I found one about adjustment but I don't know if it has everything. Also pictures would be nice.

Thanks ... I'll be sure to document my install w/ pictures this weekend.

 

[GraffitiDan]

Alright, I soaked my plates all night, installed them this morning following the service manual's instructions. Now I have the new clutch boss installed, new plates, and pushrod/lock nut installed. What I want to do now is adjust my clutch because I think that was part of the original problem. But following the service manual's instructions is not helping.

Here is a video to show where I'm at now.
MOV00334

I'd appreciate any advice on how to adjust the clutch. If you have any pictures of what the push lever should look like and what the clutch should look like that would help.

 

[stephen12091985]

ok what you do is.

first of all did you put the circle shaped spring in your clutch?the spring i am talking about is number 10 in the pic.there is dots on the boss and the pressure plate line those up,put all your springs and bolts in,there a ball bearing that goes in before the push rod,put the nut on the push rod,ok now if you look on the top of the bottom end on the left side there is a line that the push lever is supossed to line up with,you line that up by adjusting the push rod screw,once that is lined up tighen the nut on the push rod,then adjust the adjustment on ur lever.hope this helps you.i had the same problem with mine breaking like yours did and i read the manual and this is how is says do it

 

[GraffitiDan]

first of all did you put the circle shaped spring in your clutch?the spring i am talking about is number 10 in the pic.

i did not remove the clutch housing, only the clutch boss, so i'm assuming the spring is there from before when it was working. all the rest of the stuff i did as indicated, but as I showed in the video, screwing the push rod in or out does not move any of the plates or anything. Also pulling the handle or push lever by hand does not move any pieces of the clutch.

I want to say that there is too much space between the first friction plate and the clutch housing, but I have never seen one that is correct ... and I wouldn't know why it is pushed out so far either.

Any other ideas?

 

[darealblaster]

here it shows how to do it step by step. I made a DIY and posted a link to rockymountainatvmc youtube account that has alot of usefull video,guess nobody bothered to search it. here ya go. YouTube - RockyMountainATVMC's Channel ( this is the link to all the videis) and here is the link to the clutch replacement one ---->

 

[GraffitiDan]

Thanks for the links. I've watched the videos, and I feel like I've followed the directions in the service manual pretty well ... but if you watch my video I think you'll agree that I must have done something wrong!

I don't know how to diagnose what is going wrong with the clutch after I reinstalled all the new parts... does the video give anyone any clues about what is happening?

I appreciate the help!

 

[GraffitiDan]

Alright, my roommate has come up with a possible cause for the issue. During disassembly I was careful to watch for the ballbering to fall out when I removed the push rod. It did not come out so I assumed that it was still in there ... but now we're thinking that it is missing.

Here is a video showing the push rod at it's most tightened state that can also support having the lock nut on it:
MOV00335

But with the lock nut removed, the push rod can be screwed in even tighter, to the point that it won't tighten any more. The good thing about that is we now get just a little bit of travel from the clutch plates when we pull the lever. The bad thing is that we can no longer attach the lock nut:
MOV00336

What we're thinking is that if we had the ballbering between the push rod and the push lever rod, it would allow the push rod to be further outward, and allow the lock nut to tighten while also allowing the plates to move in and out.

Is this a hairbrained idea, or is this feasible? What size / type of ballbering should I buy if it sounds ok?

If the idea isn't good, is there something else that I can try?

 

[GraffitiDan]

Woohoo! I got it working. There is a bit of a trouble adjusting but I'll do my best to describe what I did.

First I did everything as I said I did ... followed the instructions. I also was missing the ball bearing, so I replaced it (25 cents). The trick is the adjustment ... I don't think the service manual describes it well enough. For me, when I loosened the lock nut that is holding the push rod in place, it would actually turn the push rod. The problem is that that throws off the fine adjustments that you did.

So what I did was take the push rod and the lock nut out of the shaft. Then held the push rod with pliers and tightened the lock nut a couple of turns. I'm sure that was cross threading the rod, but I am pretty desperate.

Once I tightened the lock nut further down the push rod, I reinserted it into the shaft and threaded it back onto the lifter. Then I tightened the lock nut down fairly close close ... then I checked free play. If it was too tight (not enough free play) I would back it out and tighten the lock nut. Eventually I was able to tighten the lock nut and push rod so that I have _more_ free play than ideal.

Then I adjusted the handle by unscrewing the wire from the lever. That made the free play less (did I mention that I had it all the way screwed in to begin with?). In the end I have just a few millimeters of free play before fully engaging the clutch.

I tightened the clutch case back on and gave it a whirl. When I shift from neutral into first it does 'grab' a little, but for sure does not stall or jerk forward. So I think that means I could probably tighten up the handle a bit, but nonetheless it's working.

So only 200$ in parts later, I have my blaster back to where I got it 2 weeks ago! heh ... but it was a good learning experience and hopefully this will help someone else.




Now I have a bit of adjustment to do on the carb I think ... before it's warmed up it seems to die a lot ... it will rev high then die ... but I'll figure that out later.

 

[GraffitiDan]

Also one thing to note is that I did all of the adjustments while I was in 1st gear, and I was holding the clutch lever all the way. That way I knew it would work once I shifted from neutral to 1st.