hey guys i was just putting my blaster back together and have a question. when i pulled the engine, i pulled the shaft out of the engine that hooks to the clutch cable. now i cannot figure out why it will not seat in the bore. i can get it to go in but there is about 3/4 inch that is still not seated. any tips are appreciated
new blaster owner, need some help please
- Thread starter kevnic
- Start date
sounds like the internal pushrod has moved into the actuator chamber too far.
use a small screwdriver to push it back in towards the clutch side
yes, the flat spot on the bottom of the actuator rod shaft you pulled out, pushes on a rod that goes thru and pushes the pressure plate out, disengaging the clutch
(actually 2 rods seperated by a ball bearing)
envision this
22, 21, 18 are the 2 rods and ball
23 is the actuator you pulled, the flat spot pushes on the rods
good advice too. should do the trick if what worked for me doesn't (small screwdriver)
post liked
Ok...
I feel stupid.
I looked in there (had the tank off) and there was nothing impeding the assembly going in, I simply forgot to put the washer and spring on first. Haha
I am going to take the carb off again and clean it probably, it rides good but I wanna make sure it is spotless.
My air screw on the carb was at 1 turn out when I got the machine. It is a little trial and error with the tors unit, let me see if I have this right...
Warm up machine
Turn air screw out until idle rises, and turn screw on tors counterclockwise to stabilize?
I have been reading up on how to do it for a half hour and everybody has a different feeling.
Some say ditch the tors, but it is gonna stay for now.
Thanks for the help
Cheers,
Kevin
I feel stupid.
I looked in there (had the tank off) and there was nothing impeding the assembly going in, I simply forgot to put the washer and spring on first. Haha
I am going to take the carb off again and clean it probably, it rides good but I wanna make sure it is spotless.
My air screw on the carb was at 1 turn out when I got the machine. It is a little trial and error with the tors unit, let me see if I have this right...
Warm up machine
Turn air screw out until idle rises, and turn screw on tors counterclockwise to stabilize?
I have been reading up on how to do it for a half hour and everybody has a different feeling.
Some say ditch the tors, but it is gonna stay for now.
Thanks for the help
Cheers,
Kevin
Also what is everyone's feeling on oil injection, ditch it?
I have mine premixed at 32:1 with the oil injection hooked up
I am doing this just in case the injection is not working. I took the right side cover off, removed oil pump screw while it was running, and it barely came out. I expected it to piss right out? Anyways I was trying to bleed it. Will these systems prime themselves ( line going to carb was dry)?
Just wondering if it will prime itself and suck from the tank...
Cheers,
Kevin
I have mine premixed at 32:1 with the oil injection hooked up
I am doing this just in case the injection is not working. I took the right side cover off, removed oil pump screw while it was running, and it barely came out. I expected it to piss right out? Anyways I was trying to bleed it. Will these systems prime themselves ( line going to carb was dry)?
Just wondering if it will prime itself and suck from the tank...
Cheers,
Kevin
You need to increase the size of the main jet as the oil in the fuel will alter the AFR and make it run gas lean!
Ok, I didn't mean to mess with it, but I did a top end rebuild and I read whenever the system is unhooked to make sure you bleed it properly. Can I just put a cap on the carburetor where the oil line would go, and leave the oil pump on, just removing the plastic gear?
Basically looking for most efficient and reliable system. I have 2 young kids and I only like to do stuff once, unless it is out of my control. Lol
Cheers,
Kevin
Basically looking for most efficient and reliable system. I have 2 young kids and I only like to do stuff once, unless it is out of my control. Lol
Cheers,
Kevin
Should I need to know anything beforehand about removing the shroud that houses the gear?
I know the kick starter has to come off, how about gaskets, reusable?
Also I am running no airbox lid with a k@n filter with a filter wrap, should I be around a 250 main jet, and can I use stock needle?
I know the kick starter has to come off, how about gaskets, reusable?
Also I am running no airbox lid with a k@n filter with a filter wrap, should I be around a 250 main jet, and can I use stock needle?
#270 - #280 main jet if you intend to premix at 32:1.
Stock needle , middle clip.
Providing you do not tear the gasket it should be re usable.
Stock needle , middle clip.
Providing you do not tear the gasket it should be re usable.
IIRC, clip is middle slot stock. Even whem moddifying, most start clip in middle slot and "tune" from there.
Off hand I can only bring to mind two occasions you may need to lift the stock needle from the middle clip.
When operating in very cold conditions and fitting a DMC Alien exhaust system. There we'll be more occasions and would love to hear them.
When operating in very cold conditions and fitting a DMC Alien exhaust system. There we'll be more occasions and would love to hear them.
