Well, I bought a blaster off my friend mid-last summer and love the thing. Well except for the rear brakes which never worked. It has been recently rebuilt(I'm assuming new rings) shortly before(as far as riding time) I bought it. I know nothing about blasters so I was checking google to find out what kind of crankcase(transmission?) oil to put in and found this site. I'm off to learn as much as I can now.......................
My blaster is blue/white.....all I know.
- Thread starter blasterd
- Start date
Welcome and hope u enjoy u will find lots of useful imformation on this site and people that are willing to help u out pce
Welcome to the site...as far as crankcase oil, you want to NOT use automotive oil, use yamalube 10w40 or Belray, I personally use Amsoil 10w30 synthetic in all my machines.
Welcome and you can use it but it may cause severe waring on your transmisson, and it wont shift as smooth!! but its not as formulated for the type of machine as the more name brand fluids you would buy at your local dealer! One good way to start would be to go to the DIY section and find the downloadable manual and download it!!! it is very useful!!! Hope you enjoy the forum.
welcome to the forum if your blaster has a vin u might be able to find out what year it is by looking here http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself/2418-how-find-out-what-year-yours.html
I wrote down what I believe my VIN to be(MANN! Yamaha could of been a little more forceful when they stamped the VIN in!) but it turns out mine is a 91. I'm thinking anyways, because 10th digit appears to be an "M" and although it doesn't appear to have been tampered with, it is still very hard to tell because it is so lightly applied. Thanks again for the link on VIN #'s.
Last edited:
YES you can use automotive oil with no problems. heres a small not-so-well-known fact, most motor oil is made in the same 2 or 3 refineries. the only difference is additives added by individual companies. the most common automotive additive is called molybendium. molybendium is a friction modifier that makes the oil more slippery. now heres the problem. molybendium when used on a wet clutch will cause less firction among the clutch plates and will eventually cause your clutch to slip.
now, you can avoid this by looking on the back of the oil bottle. there is a seal on the back of every bottle that you need to look at. if the seal has anything in it that says "energy conserving" "power saving" or "friction additives" you shouldnt put it in your quad.
only an idiot will believe the dealership theives that will tell you to use only XXXXX brand oil. oil is oil. there is no difference in it. it all comes from the ground and is processed in the same manner. put whatever brand oil you like in your quad just so it isn't a friction modifier type like castrol gtx. dealerships use peoples ignorance against them to make money. this goes for every single aspect of sales from buying the new toy to all maintenance and all fluids involved.
personally i have royal purple 10w-40 in both my quads at the moment. yes its car oil and its full synthetic. yes it runs and shifts as smooth as can ever be expected.
part of my job allows me to use an oil analysis lab whenever i need it. put a bottle of wal mart oil and a bottle of premium $8/qt oil up side by sad in one of those and you see only extremely small diffrences in the makeup of the oil.
now, you can avoid this by looking on the back of the oil bottle. there is a seal on the back of every bottle that you need to look at. if the seal has anything in it that says "energy conserving" "power saving" or "friction additives" you shouldnt put it in your quad.
only an idiot will believe the dealership theives that will tell you to use only XXXXX brand oil. oil is oil. there is no difference in it. it all comes from the ground and is processed in the same manner. put whatever brand oil you like in your quad just so it isn't a friction modifier type like castrol gtx. dealerships use peoples ignorance against them to make money. this goes for every single aspect of sales from buying the new toy to all maintenance and all fluids involved.
personally i have royal purple 10w-40 in both my quads at the moment. yes its car oil and its full synthetic. yes it runs and shifts as smooth as can ever be expected.
part of my job allows me to use an oil analysis lab whenever i need it. put a bottle of wal mart oil and a bottle of premium $8/qt oil up side by sad in one of those and you see only extremely small diffrences in the makeup of the oil.
Valhalla, thanks for posting on this. I checked the back of my Valvoline 10W30 that I originally bought for my oil/clutch disc change and see it is in fact the wrong blend.
I paid $500 for my Blaster, and although it is older, it is in very good condition. I'll post pics of it as soon as I get some, and also as long as posting pics on here doesn't prove to be very difficult.
I paid $500 for my Blaster, and although it is older, it is in very good condition. I'll post pics of it as soon as I get some, and also as long as posting pics on here doesn't prove to be very difficult.
