modiffying burgard arms

[reagor]

so as yall know im in the process of rebuilding my front end

and a big thankyou to sicivicdude for his vast knowledge of front end components

today i got my rs3003 ball joints in and began prepping my new(used) burgard arms

turns out the burgard lowers are threaded for the joints they come with (requires reaming of spindles, not using them) and need to be either drilled or rethreaded for the rs3003 joints

the uppers need a lil reaming for the rs3003 to fit (5/8 drill bit seams like the winner)

so i ask is it better to thread the uppers because there is enough metal?
what about the lowers should they be threaded or just reamed to smooth?how about reamed smooth and a nut welded on the back side?

on the uppers the differance between the 2 joints mounting shafts is the thread depth on the rs3003 threading is a real possability for both aarms

 

[sicivicdude]

the RS3003 joint shafts are M16 x 1.50. You can tap the holes as long as they're only drilled up to 37/64" (75% tap drill size for M16 x 1.50) but if they're already larger than that, you'll need to drill them out completely and get another jam nut (the thin ones) in that thread.

For camber adjustments it's better to tap the tube and be able to thread the joint in and out but either way can work.

 

[reagor]

the RS3003 joint shafts are M16 x 1.50. You can tap the holes as long as they're only drilled up to 37/64" (75% tap drill size for M16 x 1.50) but if they're already larger than that, you'll need to drill them out completely and get another jam nut (the thin ones) in that thread.

For camber adjustments it's better to tap the tube and be able to thread the joint in and out but either way can work.

what about the lowers, they are threaded now does that matter?

 

[sicivicdude]

I'm assuming they're threaded M14 or some sort of standard that's not big enough for the M16 thread?

If they are, use a 37/64" drill bit to drill the threads out and tap it for a M16 x 1.5.

One thing to check before getting REALLY happy modifying the a-arms, is the caster and camber going to be correct after you do this? The camber is adjustable to a certain extent but the caster is sort of set. With the arms mounted, is the upper a-arm ball joint tube farther back than the lower? It should be like 3/8" behind so that the spindles are "laying back" some.

 

[reagor]

I'm assuming they're threaded M14 or some sort of standard that's not big enough for the M16 thread?

If they are, use a 37/64" drill bit to drill the threads out and tap it for a M16 x 1.5.

One thing to check before getting REALLY happy modifying the a-arms, is the caster and camber going to be correct after you do this? The camber is adjustable to a certain extent but the caster is sort of set. With the arms mounted, is the upper a-arm ball joint tube farther back than the lower? It should be like 3/8" behind so that the spindles are "laying back" some.

i will wait until i teardown then and check but if the centerlines for the balljoints dont move how would the caster change?

im going to buy a tap for then modification, best i can figure is more threaded parts cant hurt only be stronger

now to source some grade8 M16 x 1.50 nylox nuts locally

 

[sicivicdude]

i will wait until i teardown then and check but if the centerlines for the balljoints dont move how would the caster change?

im going to buy a tap for then modification, best i can figure is more threaded parts cant hurt only be stronger

now to source some grade8 M16 x 1.50 nylox nuts locally

If the arms were designed for the taller blaster spindle, putting a banshee spindle on it will mean less caster (the banshee spindle ball joint mounting points aren't spaced out as far as the blaster). Either way it SHOULDN'T affect it but just something to check out!

 

[reagor]

If the arms were designed for the taller blaster spindle, putting a banshee spindle on it will mean less caster (the banshee spindle ball joint mounting points aren't spaced out as far as the blaster). Either way it SHOULDN'T affect it but just something to check out!

ahh i see, i will check it out when i get the hubs in (sometime next week)

 

[sicivicdude]

I think you'll be ok either way but you just want to check before you go hitting a good bump and it tries to rip the handlebars out of your hands.