Connecting rod or whole new crank? I would jjust go with a new hotrods or wiesco crank and have it checked out by a builder. Gonna be cheaper in the end that way.
why would you need a rod? i agreed with the whole crank setup but i like the +3 from vitos because its not that much price difference and its a performance upgrade and it requires no trenching of the cases. typically you would want to do bearings and seals at the same time. also be sure to use a crank instalation tool to pull it into the bearing and not beat it in with a hammer.
the connecting rod bearrings seem loose.i wouldnt want to spend a pile of cash on getting the cylinder bored and ported for f all
wish i could avoid getting one,this rebuild is getting out of hand.but i should of expected it
it is cheaper normally to get a new crank that it is to replace a bearing. and it is doubtful you need a rod, most likely a bearing. is there up and down play? how much side to side play?
but if you get a +3 stroker crank, you can run a spacer till you get the money to have the jug and head ported and cut to match the extra stroke. yes the spacer will not give you full power, maybe 75% of what it can make, but it will allow you to run it.
mabe im just being paranoid?
theres next to nothing for play up/down and side to side.i just thought of somthing
metal expans when heated so that would take out the play when the motor warms up right?
is there a knocking/ticking sound? and there should be no play. like if you pull up on it, the rod shouldn't move.
i will take a video of the yfz, and show you what i mean. it has very little play but enough to cause problems.
there was a knocking sound before i pulled the cylinder and head.looks like im doomed.lol.
it wasnt the original rattle sound all blasters make.example when the cylinder and head was on i would slowly turn the motor and it would make a slight knock sound.so looks like ill be buying a new crank or conecting rod which ever is cheaper in the long run
it isn't the rod, it is most likely the bearings. but with new bearings, you have to have a shop take the old crank apart, then press it back together with the new bearings.
sh*t you should have shipped him your crank, i bet he could have replaced the bearing and made the crank balanced all at the same time adn would have been cheaper than other places.
it would run like sh*t if you just stuff a stroker in there. yes you can run a spacer plate to help get the timing close to stock but it still wont be stock.
also what is the point of getting a stroker if you are not going to get the max power out of it.
if your crank is bad and your going to spring for a new one why not get the stroker its just a little bit more if you cant afford the porting then you will still have it to build off of later