So I want a bigger engine, the engine I have is nice, bored and stroked to 250 and has a dmc pipe, but I want a little more power, I've been looking at 250cc water cooled dirt bike engines.. but I just found an lt500cc engine from a quadzilla with the carb for $350.. my biggest question is how much heavier is that engine then a 250? I really wanna keep the agile nimbleness of the light weight quad, and I don't wanna break my frame in half if I jump it.. or would it be cheaper to port the engine and get a bigger carb? I don't know if I trust the 15 year old pot head kid I got the quad from if its really a 250.. he spray painted the chrome dmc pipe grey, and treated the rest like crap
lt500 in a blaster?
- Thread starter 850triple
- Start date
the quadzilla motor will fit with months of custom work. if i were you, buy the motor, use it in something else like a modern suzuki 450 quad chassis. just go threw the blaster motor and make that right. you can get what your seeking power wise by doing all the mods needed to make it a beastly motor. plus you dont have to worry about making a radiator fit and making some kind of custom pipe.
That Zilla engine would be way to much on a Blaster. You will be breaking frame/ swing arm often. You Blaster engine in not a 250. Some porting, head mod and good pipe will give some nice power. You really have to know what your doing when it comes to doing an engine swap if you want it right.
Can you give us a detailed list of what is done to your motor? I am curious why it is not making enough power for you. Please tell us bore size, 3 or 4mm stroker crank, carb size, porting, and what is done to the head. Also who performed the work.
Well that's the thing, I don't know how to tune a two stroke very well, a four stroke I can listen to it, smell it and feel it to see where I'm not getting enough fuel or where I need more..
so I got this from a spoiled little kid, my guess is his parents got him a nice quad from someone who knew what they were doing and he was a spoiled idiot that didn't want it anymore.. so he is telling me its a 250, if he knows what that means, so I'm assuming if it really is a 250, its has the 240 kit and a stroker kit.. I guess I could pop the head off and measure the bore, but I dont know how to measure the stroke, unless I took the whole cylinder off.. as I started to work on it, what I thought was a stock exhaust turned out to be a chrome dmc pipe with a dmc alien silencer, sounds pretty good too, he spray painted the whole thing grey... He spray painted a lot of this quad.. I don't know what reeds are on their, and I'm assuming its a stock carb.. I should say also he sold it to me for $300 cuz he couldn't get it to move out of third gear, and then move period.. well when I opened it there was no oil in the gear box.. there was a light coating on the gears, but not a drop came out the drain hole, I assume he tried to look at it and pulled the clutch cover because that was siliconed on, and he pulled the clutch, broke one of the 6 clutch spring mounts off, and then put the clutch back on twisted so it wouldn't engage, so I put it on properly and filled it with oil and it ran great through all 6 gears, but has one fast oil leak, hence the no oil I assume.. what I'm wanting is acceleration like my cr250.. and a higher top speed, screaming in 6th gear I might be doing 40mph.. my buddy has an rm125 bone stock, and he still takes off a little quicker then me.. I also don't know if there is head work
I like this little quad, both my girl and my best friend are under 5'6'' and fits them great, parts are everywhere and cheap, ill be gusseting the frame up to give it some extra strength, widening the whole thing and extending the swing arm along with new shocks.. so that's where I'm at.. i guess I'm on this water cooled rant because I've never seen an air cooled engine out perform a liquid cooled engine of the same size.. mounting radiator wouldn't be a problem for me.. maybe I could pick up the 500 and see if I could trade it for a 250?
so I got this from a spoiled little kid, my guess is his parents got him a nice quad from someone who knew what they were doing and he was a spoiled idiot that didn't want it anymore.. so he is telling me its a 250, if he knows what that means, so I'm assuming if it really is a 250, its has the 240 kit and a stroker kit.. I guess I could pop the head off and measure the bore, but I dont know how to measure the stroke, unless I took the whole cylinder off.. as I started to work on it, what I thought was a stock exhaust turned out to be a chrome dmc pipe with a dmc alien silencer, sounds pretty good too, he spray painted the whole thing grey... He spray painted a lot of this quad.. I don't know what reeds are on their, and I'm assuming its a stock carb.. I should say also he sold it to me for $300 cuz he couldn't get it to move out of third gear, and then move period.. well when I opened it there was no oil in the gear box.. there was a light coating on the gears, but not a drop came out the drain hole, I assume he tried to look at it and pulled the clutch cover because that was siliconed on, and he pulled the clutch, broke one of the 6 clutch spring mounts off, and then put the clutch back on twisted so it wouldn't engage, so I put it on properly and filled it with oil and it ran great through all 6 gears, but has one fast oil leak, hence the no oil I assume.. what I'm wanting is acceleration like my cr250.. and a higher top speed, screaming in 6th gear I might be doing 40mph.. my buddy has an rm125 bone stock, and he still takes off a little quicker then me.. I also don't know if there is head work
I like this little quad, both my girl and my best friend are under 5'6'' and fits them great, parts are everywhere and cheap, ill be gusseting the frame up to give it some extra strength, widening the whole thing and extending the swing arm along with new shocks.. so that's where I'm at.. i guess I'm on this water cooled rant because I've never seen an air cooled engine out perform a liquid cooled engine of the same size.. mounting radiator wouldn't be a problem for me.. maybe I could pick up the 500 and see if I could trade it for a 250?
Well I would be will to guess it is bored .40 over. Probably not a big bore kit and stroker crank if it has a stock carb on it. It is very easy to make them fast. My bike should be in the 35-40 hp range. You go from 17 hp to almost 40 hp and what you have is an AWESOME quad that will do anything you want it to. What I'm saying is if you need it to go faster you need to see what you are working with. I would do the following if I were you.
- compression test
- leak test
- take the cylinder off leaving them together (If it passed a leak test)
- look at the numbers on the top of the piston
- take pics of the cylinder and crank.
If it passed a leak and compression test you will only have to buy a base gasket. Then you will know exactly what you have. You will know if your cylinder is ported, if it's a stroker crank, and if it has a 240 kit. Just some advice. I would kill me not knowing what is in my motor.
- compression test
- leak test
- take the cylinder off leaving them together (If it passed a leak test)
- look at the numbers on the top of the piston
- take pics of the cylinder and crank.
If it passed a leak and compression test you will only have to buy a base gasket. Then you will know exactly what you have. You will know if your cylinder is ported, if it's a stroker crank, and if it has a 240 kit. Just some advice. I would kill me not knowing what is in my motor.
What numbers should I be seeing on a leak test?
So is what your saying, if the compression is good, leave the head attached to the cylinder and remove the cylinder, pull it up far enough that I can reach the piston pin and pull that so that the piston stays in the cylinder and pull the whole top end? Makes sense.. ya usually it would drive me crazy, but since I originally planned on replacing it I didn't worry about it to much.. is it true that I can get away with spraying the intake and exhaust with high temp paint to work like a port job.. I think porting is the one thing that just doesn't make sense how it can help so much, just smoothing out a slightly rough surface
So is what your saying, if the compression is good, leave the head attached to the cylinder and remove the cylinder, pull it up far enough that I can reach the piston pin and pull that so that the piston stays in the cylinder and pull the whole top end? Makes sense.. ya usually it would drive me crazy, but since I originally planned on replacing it I didn't worry about it to much.. is it true that I can get away with spraying the intake and exhaust with high temp paint to work like a port job.. I think porting is the one thing that just doesn't make sense how it can help so much, just smoothing out a slightly rough surface
if you plan to remove the jug and cylinder in one shot, I can be done. but trying to remove the piston and jug in one shot is asking for trouble. you need to pull them separate. if you drop the circlip into the bottom end, you will have fun fishing it out. do things right the first time, and you wont have any, or at the least, minimal, problems. a leak down test, you want your motor to hold at least 6lbs for 6 minutes.
Well I can probably say I won't pass the leak down test, I wasn't sure if it was normal or not, but all my reeds are like a mm open.. what should I see on a compression test?
Ya it did seem kinda weird to pull the jug with the piston still in.. but can I pull the jug off the piston? Or will it throw things off if the rings shift a little so they're no longer where they'd been seated?
Ya it did seem kinda weird to pull the jug with the piston still in.. but can I pull the jug off the piston? Or will it throw things off if the rings shift a little so they're no longer where they'd been seated?
you can pull the jug off the piston. nothing will go flying unless something is broken. the piston has pins in the ring grooves to prevent the rings from rotating. just line the ring s back up and you wont have issues.
if your reeds have gaps, not seated to the reed block, you should just replace them. you can reverse them, but they are already weakend and wont last very long.
If the reeds are not seating properly, you may be able to flip them over to make the seal better.
You will not get any more power with new reeds, poor reeds only inhibit starting and performance.
Are the reed stoppers fitted to the cage?
You will not get any more power with new reeds, poor reeds only inhibit starting and performance.
Are the reed stoppers fitted to the cage?
What I was saying is if it passes a leak test then you can leave the head attached to the cylinder and slide both of them off the piston. That way you don't have to buy another head gasket, torque the head, and retorque the head.
a 500cc motor in a blaster is crazy. if built perfectly it would prob ride like a bag of crap, wayy to much torque an hp for such a little quad. ive drivin a ktmsx250 swapped blaster am it is a hand full pluss the vibrations have you barly feelin your hands when you hop off.
biggest reason they vibrate really bad is people don't install head stays. without the head stay, the motor rocks (vibrates) which leads to broken mounts and possibly the frame. the blaster motor doesn't need a head stay cause it is internally balanced.
