I have the tusk puller and moose seal ready to install rite now any tips and tricks of the trade apprecitated thanks!!!
left crank seal have puller and ready any tips?
- Thread starter blaster0187
- Start date
Are you planning on splitting the cases to change out a crank seal?
You don't have to do that unless the bad seal cooked the crank.
You don't have to do that unless the bad seal cooked the crank.
Oh ok,
If it's a left side crank seal, you'll need a flywheel puller and an impact screwdriver with a #2 phillips head tip in it.
Once you have the stator cover off, you remove the nut from the middle of the flywheel with a impact gun or a pull bar and flywheel holder.
Once the nut is off and washer has been removed thread in the flywheel puller body (left hand thread) and then hit the center bolt once the body is seated firmly against the flywheel. Hit the center bolt with an impact gun or pull bar and hold the puller with a wrench.
Once the flywheel is off the stator plate has to be removed. Only two phillips head screws hold it in but the head will strip unless you use an impact screwdriver. Use the impact screwdriver turn the case up on it's other end and hammer the impact screwdriver down to loosen the screws. Once the screws are out, the stator plate will come out of the case and you'll be able to see the end of the crank and crank seal.
The method used to remove the old seal will vary... Some people like to try their luck with a seal puller and holding their tongue just right. Others will drill two 1/8" holes into the seal body and insert two small screws and then pull on those screws to remove the seal. However you do it, be VERY careful and gentle with the case... One gouge in the seat area and the new seal will leak.
Rub 2 stroke oil all over the crankshaft, seat area, and seal lip to lube up the assembly process. Use a properly sized seal driver set or large diameter socket (like a FWD axle socket) and drive the new seal in square making sure it seat properly.
Install all the removed parts in reverse order making sure the flywheel nut if torqued to spec and then leak test your engine before you run it again.
If it's a left side crank seal, you'll need a flywheel puller and an impact screwdriver with a #2 phillips head tip in it.
Once you have the stator cover off, you remove the nut from the middle of the flywheel with a impact gun or a pull bar and flywheel holder.
Once the nut is off and washer has been removed thread in the flywheel puller body (left hand thread) and then hit the center bolt once the body is seated firmly against the flywheel. Hit the center bolt with an impact gun or pull bar and hold the puller with a wrench.
Once the flywheel is off the stator plate has to be removed. Only two phillips head screws hold it in but the head will strip unless you use an impact screwdriver. Use the impact screwdriver turn the case up on it's other end and hammer the impact screwdriver down to loosen the screws. Once the screws are out, the stator plate will come out of the case and you'll be able to see the end of the crank and crank seal.
The method used to remove the old seal will vary... Some people like to try their luck with a seal puller and holding their tongue just right. Others will drill two 1/8" holes into the seal body and insert two small screws and then pull on those screws to remove the seal. However you do it, be VERY careful and gentle with the case... One gouge in the seat area and the new seal will leak.
Rub 2 stroke oil all over the crankshaft, seat area, and seal lip to lube up the assembly process. Use a properly sized seal driver set or large diameter socket (like a FWD axle socket) and drive the new seal in square making sure it seat properly.
Install all the removed parts in reverse order making sure the flywheel nut if torqued to spec and then leak test your engine before you run it again.
