Jetting question

[ZeroTolerance]

Hey Guys i have rebuilt my Blaster and was wondering about the FMF performance jetting kit. I have done some mods to my blaster big bore kit 240, new reeds but just stock ones but i am thinking to switch to vforce 3 reeds, FMF fatty pipe with powercore 2 exhaust and moose Racing air filter. I live in houston / Katy Area and elevation is only like 140 ft above sea level, and temp dont get below 40 here rarely. I have stock carb and stuff but i went to FMF jetting center and it said to get Jetting Results

Main Jet260
Pilot Jet32.5
NeedleSTOCK
Needle Position3RD
Power JetN/A
Air Screw1.5


What do you guys think ive never messed with the carb so i have no clue.
THe blaster runs great idles fine no smoke not lean or rich i think its perfect and alll gears scream like a it was new. Is there a way to get more out of the BIke.

 

[Wifesblaster]

To get more out of the bike you will have to start upgrading reeds, carb, and get a better pipe. There is nothing wrong with FMF but I heard they hold the 240 kit back a little. If I were you I would get v force4 reeds, pj34 carb, and a right bend or toomey pipe.

 

[Larry's Shee]

You've done a plug chop/read to confirm that you're good on jetting? 260 sounds lean to me.

 

[Blaaster]

#260 main does sound a tad lean to me also.

FMF pipe only will run well at #260 on a bog stock motor, change the breathing with an aftermarket air filter can mean a increase of one or two sizes.

Although smoke is not a true indication of good jetting, I would be concerned that yours is not smoking if you are running oil injection.

If you are mixing, you should see a little wisp of smoke if it is being lubricated well.

If you pre mix at 32:1, then again you need to increase the main jet by one size.

As it stands I would be plug chopping a #290 and working from there.

As for getting more oomph, a re chambered head will work wonders.

Plug chop.


Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.

WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/

This is a good to go plug.

You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.

 

[ZeroTolerance]

Ill do a plug chop tonight and see. Last time i did it after my rebuild which was about a week ago it was a little rich. Its not a 240 big bore its 68 mm so that would make it 2.00 mm over sorry guys . It use to be my brother ATV before he went to the military then i got it so i wasnt 100 % sure what it had i just asked him.