Is it normal for a blaster to sound like this ?

2 stroke junky

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Mar 25, 2016
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2002 blaster starts first kick has the compassion of 125 but makes this werid "knu-ck" noise when running I pulled off the carb and reeds and could grab the connecting rod and no up and down play at all .. Was wondering how this could be piston slap or rod knock ... Also running 87 octane should be 93 but what ever ...
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125psi of compression does not require 93 octane and will run correctly on even 87.


sounds like piston slap to me.
 
125psi of compression does not require 93 octane and will run correctly on even 87.


sounds like piston slap to me.

I just don't understand how there's no blow by or loss of compression ??? It's caused by wear on piston and cyclinder wall .. And how much longer can I ride it like that you think ?
 
if it is piston slap ? it could bust the piston skirt on the next stroke.
the only way to tell is measure the piston and cylinder to get the clearence spec.
anything over 4 to 5+ thousands should be rebuilt.


any exhaust leaks ?
they can sound like taps n ticks sometimes
 
if it is piston slap ? it could bust the piston skirt on the next stroke.
the only way to tell is measure the piston and cylinder to get the clearence spec.
anything over 4 to 5+ thousands should be rebuilt.


any exhaust leaks ?
they can sound like taps n ticks sometimes
Just put a new spring on it one of my buddy's has the same blaster and ran it 40hrs sounding like this but id just rather be save than sorry and pull it out in the garage .. New cyclinder and piston is $80 on eBay ..
 
Just put a new spring on it one of my buddy's has the same blaster and ran it 40hrs sounding like this but id just rather be save than sorry and pull it out in the garage .. New cyclinder and piston is $80 on eBay ..
NO NO NO do not use those cheep Egay cylinders, not worth the scrap they are made of.
 
POOR QUALITY! \/ \/ \/
s-l1600.jpg
 
I had a friend take my cylinder to a machinist and machined the cylinder bore to match the piston. This is probably the safest and most effective way to do it. I splurged and got a wiseco piston. There are others available for less money but I did research and determined I wanted a forged. You should do some googling and decide whats best for you. Don't Buy that ebay junk or you will be spending even more and be pissed!
 
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If you look closer at the photo after you "click" on it, ...
go ahead..."click" on the photo, you will see defects (pits in the iron liner) to the left side of and below the intake ports...


And this is the advertising photo.
s-l1600.jpg
 
Figured I do an update on the noise I was hearing. Pulled the head off to find the piston to be a 65.92 but STD is 66.00 so I'm figuring that's the noise seeing how the cylinder looks ok ... Anyone have a different take on it ? That's what I'm thinking.
 

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If you look closer at the photo after you "click" on it, ...
go ahead..."click" on the photo, you will see defects (pits in the iron liner) to the left side of and below the intake ports...


And this is the advertising photo.
s-l1600.jpg

Messaged the C*CK ****er and told him to issue me a full refund "ment to buy a cylinder for a warrior"
 
Figured I do an update on the noise I was hearing. Pulled the head off to find the piston to be a 65.92 but STD is 66.00 so I'm figuring that's the noise seeing how the cylinder looks ok ... Anyone have a different take on it ? That's what I'm thinking.

worn beyond it's spec limit.
new next size up piston and bore/hone to match and you'll be back up and running.
 
It's actually a little misconceiving. A 66mm piston really isn't 66mm exactly they all very a tad and without going into a bunch of detail you would be best getting it bored to a 66.25 or 66.5. <<< the size will depend on how out of round, the bore taper, and if there are any gouges/scratches etc... The shop performing the bore/hone/ and port chamfer will need the piston in hand in order to correctly bore the cylinder. Again, this is because the actual piston size varies from one to another ,and because forged and cast pistons require different clearances. Most of the time it's easiest to just send the cyl to the preferred shop and tell them to go up to the next available size and buy the piston from them also.
 
It's actually a little misconceiving. A 66mm piston really isn't 66mm exactly they all very a tad and without going into a bunch of detail you would be best getting it bored to a 66.25 or 66.5. <<< the size will depend on how out of round, the bore taper, and if there are any gouges/scratches etc... The shop performing the bore/hone/ and port chamfer will need the piston in hand in order to correctly bore the cylinder. Again, this is because the actual piston size varies from one to another ,and because forged and cast pistons require different clearances. Most of the time it's easiest to just send the cyl to the preferred shop and tell them to go up to the next available size and buy the piston from them also.

What would you say the cost of that would be ? I know every shop is different ..
 
Figures I bought a 66.00 wiseco top end build and solved the problem running like a champ no slapping also connecting rod was tight and in good condo glad I bought this baby for $300 ! HAHAH
 

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