I need some engine help...please??

H

HunterDan

New Member
Dec 13, 2008
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Hey guys, first off im new here and wanted to say hi and great site ya got. i live in harford county maryland and have been riding since i was 6.

Ok heres my queston. in 2006 my dad bought me an 03 blaster for christmas, and we all rode together through the spring and into the summer. In the summer i was riding one day with my brother (was prolly close to 100 deg. that day), and the trail came to an asphalt back road, and me being the bone-head that i am, decided to do a small burnout.

so i started this small burnout and only held it for about 3-5 seconds. i let the clutch out and proceeded to go down the road, as i go about 10 feet the motor kind of bogs down, sounding like its in to high of a gear, so i down shift and its still the same. bogging down and about 5 feet later it just dies. so my brother towed me back to the house and we sprayed the mud off and tried to start it...to no avail.

we put it in the garage and came back about 3 weeks later and tried to start it....nothing. tried to pull start it, and it started but died when you tried to drive it.

so now it has been sitting for about 2 1/2 years and i want to get back into riding it. i brought it to my house today and want to fix it. so do you guys have any ideas of what it could be???

sorry for the long read and thanks in advance!!!
 
had plenty of gas. im going to try cleaning the carb and change the spark plug first before a new top.....how expensive are they/ar ethey hard to do by yourself?
 
yea sounds like time for a top end rebuild.. i am sure your compression is low?.. its not that hard to do a top end rebuild .. just buy a wiseco piston/ rings and a top end gasket kit and throw it all on .. there is a DIY on how to rebuild a top end ..
 
first off buy yourself a manual itll be the best 25 30 bucks u ever spend then ask around to friends for someone localy that may be able to help u out im sure one of ur buddys or family or someone close has done this before and would help guide u through it and find a good machine shop around to do the machine work and oh also u may want to go get a compression gauge and do a compression check and visit this site daily LOL and dont be scared to ask ?s there are some good guys that know these things inside and out that im sure will be glad to help u its not hard at all once u know were everything goes and theres a how to on here and in the manual good luck
 
Yeah, I just ordered all my stuff for a topend rebuild on monday and I now have everything to rebuild it, other then the machine work I'm getting done this monday. First I would deffenitly do a compression check, I think proper is between 125-150psi, maybe? I know when I ripped mine apart it only had 25psi. If compression is good check spark plug and clean the carb.

Just for grinns though heres the list of what I bought and how much. Everything was ordered off of e-bay.

Prices are after shipping
Wiesco piston kit .060 over (my cylinder had a deep gouge) $93
Wrist pin bearing $12
Engine gasket kit $19.75
Clutch (mine was worn out) $43
Clutch cover gasket $7.99
 
HunterDan said:
what is honing? and why do i have to do that or bore?
Click to expand...

Oh yeah forgot, by researching online and looking into a manual you should get you learn things like this. Basicly honing is where the cylinder is pretty much sanded down (so to speak) to clean the cylinder . Boreing is when the cylinder is drilled out to fit a bigger piston because the damage is too bad to be fixed my honing.
 
lol k all the stuff below, you can take into account but i thought of this after.

remove your tors. the Throttle overide system shuts down the blaster if the throttle is thought to be stuck in the wot positon so by doing a burnout, it may have shut you down or just malfunctioned causing the bogging, which it can do sometimes. remove that and see whats up.



Sounds like you might have burned your rings or something else top end wise. said it was a hot day and hot day + no moving air over the engine + high rev burnout = seizing or other top end issues. you may just need a new set of rings and a hone but pop the top end off and check the cylinder walls and see whats up. check the piston for any cracks and such.

is it all stock? jetted corectly? oil injection blocked off or running it? tors removed?
 
ill look at a manuel about the tors.

it is completely stock, no mods at all

EDIT: i found nothing in the online manuel about a throtte override system, were can i find this???
 
SR-powered-240 said:
Oh yeah forgot, by researching online and looking into a manual you should get you learn things like this. Basicly honing is where the cylinder is pretty much sanded down (so to speak) to clean the cylinder . Boreing is when the cylinder is drilled out to fit a bigger piston because the damage is too bad to be fixed my honing.
Click to expand...

you will want to replace the reeds and put a 1/2" spacer in, that will help with the powerband, if you are 60 over you want to do a 4mm stroker, wiseco makes it, and go with a 34mm carb, without this your bike will have sooo many problems, and while you are at it go with a fmf powercore exhaust, thats my opinion, it will save you from tinkering with it every ride, i just did the reed spacer and carbon reeds, need to jet my carb now, oh yeah make sure your carb is jetted.
 
2smoker85 said:
you will want to replace the reeds and put a 1/2" spacer in, that will help with the powerband, if you are 60 over you want to do a 4mm stroker, wiseco makes it, and go with a 34mm carb, without this your bike will have sooo many problems, and while you are at it go with a fmf powercore exhaust, thats my opinion, it will save you from tinkering with it every ride, i just did the reed spacer and carbon reeds, need to jet my carb now, oh yeah make sure your carb is jetted.
Click to expand...



Wow, 2 stokes are crazy, I will look into doing that. I don't know the specs but I do know that the reeds have been replaced with some boycens.
 
HunterDan said:
ill look at a manuel about the tors.

it is completely stock, no mods at all

EDIT: i found nothing in the online manuel about a throtte override system, were can i find this???
Click to expand...
dude tors removal isnt specified in the manual cuz they dont want you to remove it. use this DIY on it and you'll be good. then see how it goes. im pretty sure that could be the problem.

heres the DIY for 88-03 but i belive it will be CLOSE to the same. if its not, just double check with us. removing tors will give you no problems so its just win win.
How To Remove Your TORS - Yamaha Blaster Forum
 
Last edited by a moderator:
SR-powered-240 said:
Wow, 2 stokes are crazy, I will look into doing that. I don't know the specs but I do know that the reeds have been replaced with some boycens.
Click to expand...

yeah also advance your timing 4 degrees, yeah i installed reeds, and the 1/2"
spacer. now i think it needs to be jetted, not sure any you guys know, let me know like to get it fixed.
 
newbie walkin in here like he owns the place lol.

the topic of reed spacers tends to be very argumentative. some people like them and say they make a difference, others say they do nothing, and still others say they hurt your performance. i believe they were first employed simply to space the carb farther out from the head so a big bowl on an aftermarket carb would clear the clutch lever.

aftermarket reeds, 4 mil stroker and 34 mm carb are good suggestions, if your looking for more power. the idea that your blaster will have problems if you don't install them is unfounded, and i would say probably the opposite. if anyone decides to do a stroker, i would suggest sending it out to get ported to match. speaking of which, porting is a good mod for just about any blaster setup. it's been said many times, a ported stock cylinder will outrun a non-ported 240 big bore.

the general consensus (backed by dyno charts thanks to kennedy_power) is that fmf exhuasts aren't exactly the best for the blaster. sure, they're a huge improvement over stock, but aside from dg, just about any other pipe made for the blaster is better, and there's a lot of them.
 
wow, alot of good info there and thank you.

So let me see if i got the gist of it. i dont need to buy and install a bigger carb and reeds?

Could i get away with just a top end re-build, stock carb cleaned out, a new spark plug, andnew reeds?


and if fmf is not the best exhaust, could anyone suggest what is? i think i may just spend the extra bucks and get one now while its torn apart
 
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