How's this look?
- Thread starter Fast6hand
- Start date
It is nearly impossible to tell unless the plug chop is performed and the insulator exposed.
Old hands can usually tell with a magnifying glass.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Old hands can usually tell with a magnifying glass.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Really no beating around the bush, I am not saying you are,,,, but like Blaaster said you need to make sure all is set correctly and perform the plug chop correct going through the gears making a hard pull (fresh plug only through all 6 gears after warm up).. Otherwise, imo u look a tad rich but you look close.. .. Did you're leak test coming up good?
Whats oil mix btw ??
Whats oil mix btw ??
Plug looks a little on the rich side, if everything is in place like "Blaaster" said, I would keep it like that (personal preference), i like it running on the rich side cuz I prefer to lose a lil power and gain more life on my engine.
Leak test was all good. 32:1 mix. All is good to go. I didn't even make a run with this plug. This is what it looks like after I ran the bike the first time after leak testing it and changing the pilot. It was a fresh plug. I was asking cause it was a good reference to what color is close. So it's a tad dark. So now when I do the real chop I have a plug to compare it to. Does that make sense?
Makes no sense at all, a used plug pulled from an engine which has idled down to a stop will generally show up as wet and rich.
One does not compare plug colour unless they are from plug chops from the same engine.
A plug should be read after a 10 second run at WOT and the plug pulled out immediately.
Read my post on plug chops, it cannot be any clearer.
One does not compare plug colour unless they are from plug chops from the same engine.
A plug should be read after a 10 second run at WOT and the plug pulled out immediately.
Read my post on plug chops, it cannot be any clearer.
Why do you use a #30 pilot, were you rich on idle or is the float level incorrect or the carb flooding?
A/S was more than 2 1/2 turns out at highest idle. Read the Blaster shoutout article and they recommended a 30 pilot.
The pipe he is using recommends one size down pilot jet with there pipe, i have the same pipe but mine is adjustable, an I also ran a 30 pilot, I could never get mine tuned in on the 32.5, it was close but not perfect,i was 2.75 turn out to be happy an thats no acceptable to me, I dropped to 30 an was perfect at 1.75 out
Mine is right around there. I didn't fine tune it yet. But thanks again for the info.
If you have not set the idle as per specs the plug colour will lie through its insulator.
Ok on the LRD recommendation, but set the float it has a lot of say with the AFR.
Ok on the LRD recommendation, but set the float it has a lot of say with the AFR.
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