How To Remove Oil Injection Without A Block Off Kit

FasterBlaster22

New Member
Jan 11, 2008
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Boston Ny
1) Empty or remove the oil injection tank (2 10mm bolts and 2 oil light wires)

2) Open up the plastic side cover where the oil pump sits (4 screws)

3) (Do not remove the pump) Unplug the larger line at the oil pump (Used to run to the oil tank)

4) Unplug the smaller line at the oil pump (runs to the side of the carb)
ht
* At this point the pump should be sitting there with no lines attached *

5) Unplug the smaller line at the side of the carb

6) * YOU MUST PLUG THE NIPPLE WHERE THE OIL INJECTION CAME INTO THE CARB OR YOUR ENGINE WILL SEIZE *

pic of blocked off carb nipple........
2rgjpc5.jpg


7) Remove the little piece of rubber with 2 holes from the plastic oil pump cover and tape over the hole with electrical tape

8) Put the plastic oil pump cover back on (4 screws)

* Now the pump will spin freely but will not be pumping any oil into the carb *

Now you are ready to mix I:I
 
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um? i never found #7.. are you talking about the thing that looks like a condom that go's over the front side of the pump? becuase mine did not have 2 holes in it...i got a lil lost on that one..
 
You would be better of taking the oil pump gear ofF also. And just plugging the holes in #7 WITH SILICONE
 
but here's the problem........


the whole reason for bypassing the oil pump and going premix is because of the likelyhood of the little plastic gear failing. you are doing the bypass, but leavign that gear in there so that when it fails, it sends small peices of plastic all through your motor. now, with no oil pumping through it, that little plastic gear is now without lubrication on its bearings and will probably fail sooner.

your heart is in the right place, but you need to do all the research as to why its done before diving into a project.
 
most pumps lubricate themselves as they are turning. the lubricant for the moving parts usually comes from the fluid that is being pumped. if you are no longer pushing any oil and its still turning, it will fail faster.

but what do i know.....
 
thats why you simply remove the gear? thats what i did, i went in your direction but i didnt some things differently and would like to state them in this thread for the others to get different ideas

first, i did not remove the rubber piece with two hole the lines run through on the plastic cover, i simply silconed it, next i took off the pump, opend it up, took the gear out and put it back together and back on (when you remove the gear, the pump no longer works or functions, it will now not pump, spin, or anything). these are the two steps i took differently, as for all the other steps involved, i did the same as you stated
 
Great forum. I did my block off today along with carb clean and tranny oil change and spark plug. Runs like a champ. One thing i did different was instead of removing the rubber gromet i just took too bolts and smeared gas and oil adhesive and sealer on them and pushed them in the holes. Holding up great so far. Thanks
 
i just went to autozone and bought a vacumn line cap. couple of bucks and i put some gas and oil adhesive and sealer on it and pushed it on there. working great for me
 
i just found out the guy b4 me that did this didnt plug the hose going into the carb. it runs fine and i dont know what your talking about seizing the engine because of this. a little overexadderation but i need to plug it just in case of other problems like foreign material geting in. what should i use?
 
use the block off kit if you already have it. much cleaner. this is a freebie mod that does the same job, just leaves the pump in the case. i'd recommend removing the plastic gear because, as was stated before, one of the big problems is the plastic gear breaking and having pieces floating around your bottom end.
 
i have a question about this i took off the whole oil pump only think left is the little metal bullet looking piece thats in the black piece can i just leave it like that and plug the carb whole that it goes to on a later date? and ofc cover the big spot where the two lines were coming out of?
 
Why remove the Yamaha "Auto Lube" oil injection system? It works flawlessly! I've been running it for years and years with ZERO issues on four (4) different blasters. My personal blaster is running porting,re-chambered head,high compression,matched transfers,etc,and ZERO issues... Ever. Whats your purpose for removal?

One other thing... The plastic (hard Delrin) gear doeasn't break,or wear out. I've never seen this...ever,and I mean EVER,and I've seen MANY of them. These are rumors started by people that don't know better,or from....hear say/rumors that other people hear.


The cause for the oil injection system to fail is due to "Operator error". You know...the dummy that forgot to put oil in the tank until it ran dry,THEN decides to put oil in AFTER its too late,or the other dummy that disassembled the system and then re-assembled it without properly "bleeding" the system.

There is no excuse for this. Why is it so hard for people to fill the tank? Its translucent,...meaning that you can see oil on the inside from the outside.You can see if it needs oil from 300 or more feet away.

Heres a short and factual read. 6,000 miles on a blaster with oil injection...

The TRUTH About Oil Injection
What you should know before you block off the oil injector
Nearly everyone complains about the oil injector (Autolube) that comes stock on every Yamaha Blaster. Some say it is unreliable, and will break. Others say that the 20:1 mix ratio puts too much oil into the motor. Many people block off the injector for this reason, there are many kits avaliable to do this.

As a Blaster owner for two years, an everyday reader of the Blaster Central BBS, I belive I have heard nearly every argument for and against the oil injector.

In the past few years I have heard of 3-4 people who say their injectors have gone bad and caused their motors to sieze. Most of the time they do not even consider that other factors could be involved. The just assume that the injector must have quit, every so-called expert says it isn't any good. Still, no one has ever proved that the injector was at fault.

Even IF it was, improper care usually causes failure. I have to wonder if the operator was carfull when he filled the tank up, or if he filled it while the quad was dirty and droped bits of mud into the tank.

I belive the Blaster's oil injection is 100% reliable. While I realize anything, and everything can fail, I do know that the injector system is no more likely to fail than any other engine part.

The fact is, my own 1998 Yamaha Blaster's oil injection system has held up to 5175 miles of use, without a single problem.

The first ATV ever to finish the 6000+ mile Paris to Dakar rally was a 1997 Yamaha Blaster. He ran oil injection, and the quad ran fine the entire time.

I sure hope that dispells the reliability myth.

Most people belive that the Blaster's 20:1 Gas:Oil ratio is too rich. They say the motor gets too much oil. I want my motor to get all the oil it can. The more oil If it costs my 1HP, then fine.

Wait a second, it won't cost me horspower!! I might actually lose power by running a leaner ratio. I know you don't belive it, that's why I have proof. Tests have been done on an lder RM125, and these are the results:

20:1 Gas:Oil ratio (same as a Blaster) gave 23.2HP 16:1 Gas:Oil ratio gave 23.6 HP 27:1 Gas:Oil ratio gave 21.4 HP

At the 27:1 ratio the piston "showed signs of scuffing bad enought to deter me from testing at 32:1."

If you think I made all of this up, take a look at page 169 of Two-Stroke Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell. The book is avaliable on Amazon.com for a fair price.

Any other questions about the injection system. I have proved it to be both reliable, and that it does not cost power. Now I'll tell you why people say they remove it:

Looks, they say it looks bad.
Weight, it weighs a few pounds.
It doesn't look great, but it doesn't look terrible, at least not to me. On a tricked out quad, it might detract from the appearance a bit.
Hmmm... I guess it does weigh 2-3lbs, and full of oil, mabey 6-8. So that's a valid complaint.

There, now I have told you both sides of the story, make your own desicion. I just don't want people to spend their time and money taking off the injector before they hear the other side of the story.

I removed my oil injection system last summer,so I could evperiment with different oils and mix ratios. It was fun,but there was no clear advantage,so I put it back on.