How does my DIY porting job look?

wwholden

Member
Nov 17, 2011
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Dayton, Ohio
I followed Ken O'Conners DIY porting videos as closly as I could. However I didnt have quite all the same tools or as much patience as he does. Anyway the exhaust port looks like glass but has a few small pits near the back that I just couldnt work out.

I have a few concerns that I hope I didnt do any damage to. What you guys think?

1.) I took alot of material away from the exhaust port. I think I may have taken too much out so now the flow will get snagged on the exhuast gasket. B/c the gasket is wider than the thickness of the port. I dont think this is a big concern but Im sure its not ideal?

2.) While cleaning up the transfer ports I again think I took too much material out. The problem is that the divider between the two ports is not flat with the gasket seal. See the pics(the left is worse than the right). You can tell that the divider is curved down instead of flat. This may be a problem but agian Im not for sure. This was caused by having the dremel on a high rpm after using it for the exhasut polishing.

Exhaust port before and after:
5f34227d.jpg

IMG_19651.jpg


Transfer ports divider not level:
IMG_19611.jpg


Left divider (worse):
IMG_19631.jpg

IMG_19691.jpg

Right divider:
IMG_19641.jpg

IMG_19681.jpg


Did a little work on the intake ports. Just rounded them a little and opened the top one up a tad.
IMG_19671.jpg

IMG_19661.jpg
 
exhaust looks good but there is still lots to be had on those transfers. Dont worry about the divider. what you going to do? rewind? besides, the casings do not have a divide in them and that face does not seal onto anything. It just divides the air. all it means is that PERHAPS the one transfer may get a little more than that the other due to flow dynamics. But you cant fix it.

Rather focus on getting into the corners more. i still see steps and pockets there.
 
Im afraid to take any more out. Could you edit my pic in like paint so you can better describe what steps your talking about. I tried working out the little black horzontal line at the top of the port. Doesnt seem to come out unless I take quite alot more out and change the angle even more.

As far as me asking if I screwed it up I know I cant rewind or do anything about it. I just want to know if its going to affect performace or is it not going to have an effect.
 
it is not too screwed up to run decent. you may notice a little power increase. i would suggest looking at other porting pics and trying to make yours look similiar. probably without touching the sleeve though.
 
ya look you are not far off but work these sections ive marked and you will be sorted.

IMG_19691.jpg


430611_334513316585863_123478004356063_805557_1466811890_n.jpg


I think you need a more accurate bit to do the corners as ive suggested, so look for one which will fit the application.
 
Thanks so much Blaner! When talking about the steps where the divider meets the sleeve. Do I just try and blend it to one smooth peice and get rid of the small valley? Why I didnt get in those areas very well was becasue I was just using the basic sanding cylinder that comes with the dremel kit. Its diameter is a bit too big. I guess I need to go out and buy a different bit. Should I go with another sanding wheel with a smaller diameter or get a small diameter stone?
 
Ok, ya toss the sand roll for now, they work well in the exhaust but I dont use them in the transfers. Go out and get yourself some bits.
I like to use the metal one in the red box for my transfers. it gives the right radius i need but be careful they are much more aggressive than sand rolls. test it on something else to get the feel of it

DremelBits.jpg


You can also use the blue stone version for a softer finish:

Dremel-Bits.jpg


You shoiuld get yourself a set of these too:::

dsts-SBA3-5pc.jpg


The two on the left (blue) are the ones id be interested in.

Im no expert but these are some bits wgich I have found to work well especially in the transfers...

REMEMBER: keep it moving and dont hold it it one place!!
 
yes, work the gap between the cyl and the sleeve, those gaps are not so deep that you should leave them. They are worth chasing. I see also, you did a good job of "knife edging" the sleeve on the outter ends but lost the edge as you came in towards the divider, keep that sharp angle through to the divider and that will get rid of the step.
 
Ok, ya toss the sand roll for now, they work well in the exhaust but I dont use them in the transfers. Go out and get yourself some bits.
I like to use the metal one in the red box for my transfers. it gives the right radius i need but be careful they are much more aggressive than sand rolls. test it on something else to get the feel of it

DremelBits.jpg


You can also use the blue stone version for a softer finish:

Dremel-Bits.jpg


You shoiuld get yourself a set of these too:::

dsts-SBA3-5pc.jpg


The two on the left (blue) are the ones id be interested in.

Im no expert but these are some bits wgich I have found to work well especially in the transfers...

REMEMBER: keep it moving and dont hold it it one place!!

Whats the names of the two bits you have boxed in red?

yes, work the gap between the cyl and the sleeve, those gaps are not so deep that you should leave them. They are worth chasing. I see also, you did a good job of "knife edging" the sleeve on the outter ends but lost the edge as you came in towards the divider, keep that sharp angle through to the divider and that will get rid of the step.

Ok so the knife edge is good, you want it to be sharp? I thought you would want it to be swooth. And your saying to make the edges near the cylider all sharp?
 
Also I been looking at other porting jobs. It looks like I still have my exhaust gasket installed??? I thought I removed it from the head pipe when I tore it down. Maybe I didnt. Is the gasket still installed in my pics?
 
yes you still have the gasket in place. And perhaps "knife edge" was the wrong term, get them with a gentle radius, you dont want then sharp, however what I was getting at is uniformity. I see you changed the angle as you worked towards the divide and at the ends you have one angle but closer to the divide it changes and had two angles. keep it the same along the liner.

Im not sure of the bit names.
 
lookin good bro. just keep workin. also in the intake bridge you can "knife edge" it. get rid of the big flat spot right in the middle of the intake
 
20 Piece 1/8" Shank Diamond Point Set Good for tight radius. Just take your time, work slowly, be an artist. As mentioned look at pics, be smooth, symetrical ' Be aware that changing heights a little (1mm) can be a lot in degrees of crank rotation.

In smoothing/blending top of exhaust I must have raised it enough that the increase in peakyness my son didn't care for, tho it could be that the pipe is actually working as designed now.
 
lookin good bro. just keep workin. also in the intake bridge you can "knife edge" it. get rid of the big flat spot right in the middle of the intake

That's a good idea. Anyone have any pics of this so I don't over do it?

20 Piece 1/8" Shank Diamond Point Set Good for tight radius. Just take your time, work slowly, be an artist. As mentioned look at pics, be smooth, symetrical ' Be aware that changing heights a little (1mm) can be a lot in degrees of crank rotation.

In smoothing/blending top of exhaust I must have raised it enough that the increase in peakyness my son didn't care for, tho it could be that the pipe is actually working as designed now.

Thanks for the link. I'll go to harbor freight sometime to pick that up.
 
You can get the bits you need at your local home depot. Make sure you get carbide bits for removing material. Take your time and don't rush. What you have so far isn't too bad.