how do i adjust the needle position?
- Thread starter 08curranc
- Start date
first off, you should not need to adjust the needle position, especially on a stock machine, i've tuned at least 5 seperate blasters using the stock carb, with a wide range on mods, from stock to ported with bolt-ons and pipe, none of them required anything but the stock needle in the middle clip position.
what are reasons/symptoms that lead you to think it needs changed ?
what are reasons/symptoms that lead you to think it needs changed ?
sorry i meant it is a stock carb i have a fmf fatty with powercore 2 silencer,i use pre mix 32:1, and have the air box lid removed with uni air filter, and i have a 280 main in the carb right now. its a 1997 and it has a slight bog/hesitation when im wot through the gears. its not bad but you can def feel it. and i romped around some trails today for like an hour maybe a lil more and twice it randomly just bogged out and turned off. it doesnt really idol very well either it will idol with no throttle for like 4-5minutes then turn off, but that can prob be fixed with a small adjustment from the idol screw. i bought the blaster bout a week ago and it had the air box lid removed already and already had the 280 main in it. i installed the exhaust bout two days ago from my other blaster. now im just wondering if the previous owner who changed the main out already may have adjusted the needle. should have to adjust it with the exhaust put on it now? i read somewhere that some blasters needle came stock in position 2 out of the five.i would just like to know exactly where my needle sits now and how to adjust if need be for peace of mind. if its not the needle i may have to adjust the main im thinking??
again, the needle is not your problem, and is fine in the middle clip positon, if thats where it is ?
take cap of carb, pull spring back from top of carb slide, remove the brass looking clip that retains the cable end, push down and out to release cable, remove 2 small screws to release the needle retainer plate, pull needle up out, be sure to leave/replace the small plastic wahsers.
carefully watch exactly how you dissassemble everything so you know how to re-assemble
you may have dirty carb, float level needs adjusted, an airleak, the airscrew needs adjusted for high idle ect.
check the carb section for the stickied threads at the top for more carb tuning info
take cap of carb, pull spring back from top of carb slide, remove the brass looking clip that retains the cable end, push down and out to release cable, remove 2 small screws to release the needle retainer plate, pull needle up out, be sure to leave/replace the small plastic wahsers.
carefully watch exactly how you dissassemble everything so you know how to re-assemble
you may have dirty carb, float level needs adjusted, an airleak, the airscrew needs adjusted for high idle ect.
check the carb section for the stickied threads at the top for more carb tuning info
yea like i said i bought the quad used and he told me it was all stock untill i opened the carb(which is clean by the way) and found the 280 main that he didnt mention putting in so idk what else he may have done so its just as a peace of mind thing and if its not in the center position, thats where i wanted it so i will have to adjust if it has been altered. the quad runs great while im romping around. i played around with the idol today and it seems to only stay idoling at a high idol and is a fairly loud idol. my 01 idols super soft and u can actually have a conversation on it and be able to hear clearly. im going to run some plug chops on it in the next day or 2 i bought some spark plugs today. im sure ill get to the bottom of it, its just alot of trial and error kinda.
i havent been able to go wot all the way through sixth gear yet but on either one but the 01 which is all stock is way faster and zippier than my 97 with the mods which kinda bothers me right now but im thinking its cuz the 01 runs 13t front and 40 back and the 97 runs 14t front and 40 rear. im thinkin i might put a 13t on the 97 and see if it can roll with the 01
you adjusting the idle on top of the tors box under the seat, or playing with the airscrew ???
adjusting the pilot/airscrew (located behind the fuel line inlet).....
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/
adjusting the pilot/airscrew (located behind the fuel line inlet).....
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/
yea how else would i have been playing around with it. the tors unit is still there just all the wiring for it is disconnect.
I have learnt from personal experience to TAKE PICTURES! Just so you don't reassemble wrong. Just a tip.
RED FLAG !!
If you had a 280 main jet on a stock Blaster BEFORE you put on the FMF, there is probably an air leak somewhere
Would HIGHLY suggest doing a leakdown test BEFORE riding again or even trying to tune it.I:I
If you had a 280 main jet on a stock Blaster BEFORE you put on the FMF, there is probably an air leak somewhere
Would HIGHLY suggest doing a leakdown test BEFORE riding again or even trying to tune it.I:I
RED FLAG !!
If you had a 280 main jet on a stock Blaster BEFORE you put on the FMF, there is probably an air leak somewhere
Would HIGHLY suggest doing a leakdown test BEFORE riding again or even trying to tune it.I:I
right on. do you have a link on here that explains how to do a leakdown test? and what do i need in order to run such a test (Tools and such)
It takes less than 15 mins to remove the head.
One look then would tell you if it has been rechambered, ported or stroked.
Steve
