Help! Please!

[05blasterkid]

I currently have all the mods in my sig and stock gearing. I notice that my blaster hits the power band at Half throttle in gears 4-6. In gears 1-3 the power is there through the whole gear. When I get Into 4-6 it's bogs down at the start when I first shift into that gear and then picks up at about half throttle. What do you guys think I could do to fix this? Would changing the gearing help at all? Just give me your ideas guys, I really want this fixed if it's even possible.

 

[sicivicdude]

Did you rejet for the airbox lid and pipe?

 

[05blasterkid]

Yea I'm running a 330 main. Jeez sicivic, your all over my threads lol

 

[sicivicdude]

bored at work, what can I say?

Plus, if someone is going to troll... wouldn't you want them to be trying to help?

Alright, when you say half throttle, do you actually mean half throttle (you're only pushing the thumb throttle halfway) or do you mean half RPM?

Half throttle means you need to adjust your needle (clip down to richen it up I would guess by the "bogging"). If you're talking about half RPM, that's probably the normal amount of power you're supposed to have. If the gearing isn't right for you, you could change it.... a 12 tooth front sprocket would make the gears much shorter.

 

[05blasterkid]

I have the needle clip omega 3rd I believe. And that's what everyone says to have it at. The 03' and up blaster came with it on the 3rd from factory. And I mean half rpm I guess. I just want it to where when I hit the gas in every gear, I want the power right there. I just wondered if I could change that. Like in 4-6 It takes a little while to hit power, I want it right there when I hit the gas in every gear

 

[sicivicdude]

"I want a solid gold toilet seat but it's just no in the cards now is it?"

The drawback of a 2 stroke is the narrow RPM band where the power is most efficient...

There are a few things you can try... Did you purchase a jet kit for the blaster or just a main jet? 330 sounds maybe a LITTLE bit high, I was running a Pro circuit on a 290 with a nice mocha brown plug.

If you didn't get a jet kit, you could try that because most jet kits (at least the ones I've seen) include a replacement recalibrated needle. That may help a little of that mid RPM slump you're feeling. You could also try fiddling with your current needle and see if you can get some of that slump out of there.

You could also get your head rechambered. Not only will that increase static compression some, it really helps to focus the flame better than the stock head.

 

[05blasterkid]

I didn't get a jet kit. I just had a local Yamaha dealer jet it for me cause they are suppose to be good. The plug looks about right. It's a mocha brownish color.

 

[sicivicdude]

The plug being the right color tell you that the jetting is consistent which is good. It sounds like a 330 might be right for your setup.

If you didn't get a recalibrated needle with that jet kit, you may be running a bit lean in the mid throttle range. Something you may want to look into.

 

[Awk08]

i am not a beleiver in those huge jets toomey recommends for their pipes,
i am only running a 300 main on my sons bike with a port cleanup, vf3's, stock carb, uni in an open airbox and either the f7 or lrd right bend pipes
at 1700 - 2500ft. elevation
i say.......no way does your setup need a 330 main

whats a full throttle plug chop read ?????

 

[05blasterkid]

Well the 330 main keeps the plug a t the right color and idk ask it's been a while for a full throttle plug chop. Im rebuilding the topend now cause the rings were bad.

 

[99LRDblaster]

Well the 330 main keeps the plug a t the right color and idk ask it's been a while for a full throttle plug chop. Im rebuilding the topend now cause the rings were bad.

I'd do a WOT plug chop with the 330 main. I'm guessing it's a tad bit rich. Try it and see what it looks like. If it's a little rich, you might need to go down to a 320 main. Toomey recommends the 310 main that they provide which was spot on for my buddies Blaster when he had it. With just the addition of reeds, I'm guessing it doesn't warrant 2 mains higher, but you won't ever know until you do a plug chop.

Also keep in mind, that you are pulling a higher gear in 4th..........and it's just the nature of the quad. Whenever you switch to an aftermarket exhaust you will lose bottom end torque with a 2 stroke unless you have a powervalved engine. Even my Blaster rips through 1-3 fast and then hesitates a little in 4th.......just getting out of the powerband with taller gearing. You're not the first one to notice this. I:I

 

[05blasterkid]

I know I'm not the first to notice this but I just wondered if I could make it better. But thanks lrd, with your blaster being that nice and knowing that your blaster does it an it's normal then I'm all good with it. I had the 310 main in it but It was running lean. I asked a Yamaha dealer what they thought and he said 330 so I went with it and it is the right color on the plug. But I will do a wot plug chop when I can. But I just fried the piston. I rode it really hard and It gave out on the exhaust port side so I know it was running lean there. So the 330 might not be enough idk.

 

[99LRDblaster]

I know I'm not the first to notice this but I just wondered if I could make it better. But thanks lrd, with your blaster being that nice and knowing that your blaster does it an it's normal then I'm all good with it. I had the 310 main in it but It was running lean. I asked a Yamaha dealer what they thought and he said 330 so I went with it and it is the right color on the plug. But I will do a wot plug chop when I can. But I just fried the piston. I rode it really hard and It gave out on the exhaust port side so I know it was running lean there. So the 330 might not be enough idk.

When you get the new piston in and get it all put back together, make sure to do a leak down test to check for air leaks that will cause a lean condition.

Civicdude and myself have found that advancing the timing a little bit helps get rid of a bit of the hesitation you get down low and makes it a little easier to get in and stay in the powerband. Probably won't apply but while riding around, you can ride around with a screwdriver and play with the mixture screw 1/4 turn at a time and it might help out a bit low. I'm taking mine out this weekend and getting it dailed in hopefully.

 

[Larry's Shee]

If jetting is right, if situation is such you can also just clutch it to get rpms up.

 

[zmaro]

I have the Toomey too, thats just they way it is. If you look at the Dyno chart they have on there website (Toomey Racing USA - Blaster Final Comparison) you can see that you are making less power than stock until you get over 5500 RPMs. I have gotten used to it, for casual riding it is ok, and when you want to go fast and need power plan ahead and be in the right RPM range, or downshift to get the power you need.

 

[05blasterkid]

What would another pipe help me out at all?

 

[zmaro]

What would another pipe help me out at all?

I have heard that the FMF fatty is more of a low to midrange pipe where the toomey is more of a mid to top end pipe. If you look at that dyno chart you can see the other pipes, weather that is true of not I don't know...

 

[Awk08]

both my bikes rip from top to bottom, with zero hesitation anywhere, with either the F7 on mine, or the lrd on my sons, fine tuning is a must

 

[05blasterkid]

I want mine like awk described his. I've always wanted an f7 but I dont know if it's even worth getting. I just want my blaster perfect. I've already thought about getting rid of it :/

 

[sicivicdude]

Awk's secret is engine work. Increased compression raises torque throughout the entire RPM range. Pipe tune only optimizes a particular RPM range the most (the powerband) and right bend pipes are generally "top end pipes".

If you want to get maximum power, you'll need to have the top end ported and the head cut to match your modifications.