HELP! Blaster Troubles :/

KW_AZ

New Member
Apr 1, 2012
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Phoenix, AZ
Hello fellow blasty heads!

I just purchased what I believe to be a early 90's blaster off of craigslist (no title or vin that I can find). I bought it for $500 from a guy who had it for a couple years but barely rode it. The owner before him did quite a few mods.

It supposedly is bored and ported. It is obvious that it has a reed spacer, mid range pipe, fmf silencer and an oil injection block off.

When I went to look at the quad at the seller's house it started on the 10th (or so) kick. It had a carb leak which looked to be coming from the bowl. It shifted through all the gears fine, and even with flat rears the powerband I felt in the cul-de-sac made me want to take it home. I:I

After purchase I rode the bike for 1-2 hours at a local spot in the desert. The quad FLYS. I had some fun, but it suddenly came to an end. In a sand patch it bogged out in 3rd once and then again in 2nd. Since then it has failed to start. :(

I have yet to compression test it. It has a blue spark and fuel is hitting the bowl. I have already done the toothpaste trick which seemed to fix the carb leak, but only some runtime will tell if that holds.

The carb is stock. I have pulled off the stock air box which held a (dirty) uni filter. Its been kicked over 60+ times with no luck.

I pulled the reeds out and found a small chip in the corner and a dirty intake port which doesn't look to be 'ported'. I don't know if the reeds are stock or not, or if they are the reason why she wont fire up. Pics of the reeds and intake port are below. Notice I tried to show the piston in bdc and tdc if that helps at all. Cylinder head has yet to be pulled, but I will do so soon to check the bore size and inspect the top of the piston.

Please help me get her running again! I am motivated to stay away from the shop and keep costs low :)

Thanks in advance

P.S. I know, its a dirty mess. I have a lot of cleaning to do. :D
 

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welcome to BF.

that cylinder definately has some port work done to it

i doubt that reed chip is gonna hinder starting, but i'd replace them

you did mix your fuel/oil @ 32:1 ?

i'd check the flywheel to see if you broke a woodruff key and it's just sparking at the wrong time ?

a compression test will tell the tale if you fried a hole in the piston
(more than likely caused by an airleak or lean jetting)

what carb, and what jetting is in it for the mods..
pipe/porting/filter ect. ?

leakdown test it before ever riding it again, wether it needs rebuilt or not, these have proven invaluable to our 2 strokes longevity...........

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-parts-151/leak-down-tester-43284/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/videos-how-perform-air-leakdown-test-31464/

heres some other troubleshooting .............

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/my-general-troubleshooting-maintenance-30347/

let us know what ya find, and pics, pics, pics !!!!
 
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welcome to BF.

and thats definately got some port work done to it !

i doubt that reed chip is gonna hinder starting
you did mix your fuel/oil @ 32:1 ?

what carb, and what jetting is in it for these mods..pipe/porting/ect. ?

i'd check the flywheel to see if you broke a woodruff key and it's just sparking at the wrong time ?

a compression test will tell the tale if you fried a hole in the piston

hate to bust your balls so soon into your stay here......but an ounce of preventive maintenence before riding it may have saved ya a top end

may i suggest a leakdown tester before riding it again, wether it needs rebuilt or not, these have proven invaluable to our 2 strokes longevity...........

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-parts-151/leak-down-tester-43284/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/videos-how-perform-air-leakdown-test-31464/

heres some other troubleshooting .............

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/my-general-troubleshooting-maintenance-30347/

Cool to know its ported, thanks. My engine experience is mostly V8 and I6 based and the intake port on my quad is nowhere near what I would expect porting to be, but again I don't know what a stock port looks like...

I did run 32:1. Stock Carb. I am having probs identifying jet #'s, they seem pretty worn. Does 2.8 = 280? Pic is attached.

I have yet to expose the flywheel but when checking the spark with the intake manifold off I can tell that its sparking close to tdc...

And thanks for the links, the more info the better. I will be doing a compression test tomorrow and I sent a PM to slick to get a leak tester :)

Don't worry, my balls are tough. Hopefully my joyride didn't cause collateral damage, but I guess the upcoming tests will tell.
 

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That's the fuel inlet needle valve seat. Main jet is hex shaped, has a plastic slosh guard and brass waser under it. Pilot jet is down little hole next to main. Be sure to only use Blaster puller on flywheel, no 2-3 jaw/hammer:oX(
 
Do a compression and leak down test. See the PO having to kick it 10 + times should of been a clue that it needed work. You should of read up and did a pull inspection before you rode it.
 
the attached pic is of the float valve, we're more interested in the main jet
it's the brass hexagon jet you see sticking up in the middle, after removing the bowl,
it's number will be on the side or top, and my old ass needs a magnifying glass to see those #'s, LOL

your main jet size is mainly dependant on what pipe, and filter/air lid mod's
the more air in or out = more fuel needed = bigger main jet
most bikes do fine with the stock 32.5 pilot jet and stock needle on the middle clip
 
That's the fuel inlet needle valve seat. Main jet is hex shaped, has a plastic slosh guard and brass waser under it. Pilot jet is down little hole next to main. Be sure to only use Blaster puller on flywheel, no 2-3 jaw/hammer:oX(


Thanks for the help. Main jet is 300, markings were on the top of the hex shape and not the sides.

Pilot jet seems to require a tiny ass flat head, which i don't have :/

Do you think I still need to expose the flywheel if I see spark at tdc?
 
Thanks for the help. Main jet is 300, markings were on the top of the hex shape and not the sides.

Pilot jet seems to require a tiny ass flat head, which i don't have :/

Do you think I still need to expose the flywheel if I see spark at tdc?

pilot should be pulled and cleaned thoroughly, as it effects starting/ideling
as the whole carb should be disassembled and cleaned, you're already in there

i'd do the compression test before going any further and pull the pipe to give that side of the piston an inspection, that side loves to loose the piston skirt
 
pilot should be pulled and cleaned thoroughly, as it effects starting/ideling
as the whole carb should be disassembled and cleaned, you're already in there

i'd do the compression test before going any further and pull the pipe to give that side of the piston an inspection, that side loves to loose the piston skirt

pulled the pipe. looks like i might have a seizure... pics attached. let me know what you think

I cant see the bottom of the piston to check skirt, but i don't hear any rattling.

I will do a compression test soon (once harbor freight opens, lol)
 

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pulled the pipe. looks like i might have a seizure... pics attached. let me know what you think

I cant see the bottom of the piston to check skirt, but i don't hear any rattling.

I will do a compression test soon (once harbor freight opens, lol)


Looks like a corner sieze to me. I'd skip the compression test take top end off and i bet you'll find a bore and piston needed!
 
yeah, looks like 2 points of seizure on that side, prolly 2 more matching on the intake side ???
i forget what causes 4 point seizures, was the bike warmed up properly when this happened ??

an airleak usually blows a hole thru the top of the piston

time to open her up !