Friggin elec .problem

bmfv-twin

New Member
Jan 13, 2011
69
1
0
N.FT.MYERS FLORIDA
Ohms test result

Pick-up(black & red wire)=240

Source(white & red wire)=20.5

Coil wire to orange wire terminal=12.55

New CDI

Cut out tors etc...

Now here's my friggin problem my orange
wire has only 2 to 5 volts when I kick it over
Any ideas?
 
and the issue is that it won't run? lights won't work? whats up, assuming it's not running i'd start using the search button on this site to dig up some ohms and volt readings, i've never had any electrical issue's other than a burnt out headlight bulb so i don't have there specs right on hand they've been disucussed on here before
 
ohms readings here in the manual..................
http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf

and heres a trouble shooting guide i copied a while back from another thread................

Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.

Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).

Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.

Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
 
Yeppers been there done that according to the digging I've done all the tests are in specs except for the coil feed wire which is supposed to be around 12 volts but I'm only getting around 3 or 4 volts which makes for a very weak spark .I was hoping someone on here has had the same prob.The key for the flywheel is fine but my foot and back are not from kicking.
Thanks
 
good boots definately required for repeated kicking,
and that 240 reading troubles me, i dont ever remember seeing that # before,
also, hows the ground at the coil, good, tight and clean ?????
 
According to what I've read the pick-up(b+r wire) is supposed between 230-260 I hope that's wrong it would explain it.Im still waiting for that manual to download that awk graciously gave me.I only have my phone my laptop took a dump so when I finishes ill be able to see what the specs are supposed to be.
 
lemme post them up for ya................

yep...

source coil....192 - 288 ohms blk/red - blk wires

pickup coil ....... 16 - 24 ohms wht/red - blk wires

try unplugging the key and run/off switches one at a time, under the hood to eliminate them as a fault, neither are needed to run, just shutdown

double check that ground at the coil
 
i chased an electrical problem on my boys bike for weeks early last year, after changing out every part from mine, i finally started undoing the harness, only to find a black wire wore thru and touching a blk/wht wire where they cross over the frame under the tank
 
lol I feel ya I have no harness left my wires go straight from the stator to the cdi,black wire goes straight to ground orange wire goes to coil,black and white from cdi isn't hooked up to anything
 
gotta be in the stator, or cdi then
did it act the same with the old cdi, and is this one brand new
 
theres no way to test the cdi,
but i remember somebody a few weeks ago who had a bad flywheel, no signs of it, but when replaced with another used one, it came to life, possibly weak magnets ???
and check for rust down in there ???? inside of flywheel and coil surfaces???
i not sure if the coils/pickup on the stator are moveable ???
like maybe too far away from flywheeel to be making good voltage ???
 
ok flywheel that's a thought,I don't know how the stators would be adjusted the flywheel is enclosed and I have no clue where I would get another flywheel just for a test.
 
look for rust, and i think the coils, especially the trigger coil ??? may be adjustable for clearence, i've never done it, but think i saw "sheeblast" or his brother "motoman" suggest that once ????
and someone on here may have a flywheel, just check the "for sale" section, but you'll have to just pm them, you're not supporting member yet, and dont have the 300 posts needed yet
lemme check my resources on here for ya
 
ok flywheel that's a thought,I don't know how the stators would be adjusted the flywheel is enclosed and I have no clue where I would get another flywheel just for a test.

i got one and you sound like me every thing electrically on my blaster was new. put on the old cdi and fired right up. but yea i have a flywheel if you need one
 
Ohms test result

Pick-up(black & red wire)=240

Source(white & red wire)=20.5

Coil wire to orange wire terminal=12.55

New CDI

Cut out tors etc...

Now here's my friggin problem my orange
wire has only 2 to 5 volts when I kick it over
Any ideas?

b4 or after the coil?