FMF fatty and power core

sporty982000

New Member
Jul 10, 2012
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Illinois
So, some of my parts, that I have.

Is a fmf fatty and power core.

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The fatty pipe is missing the flange to it.

It was ruff, i tried buffing and polishing, but no luck. So I painted with some high heat black gloss engine paint. 500 degree. Should I have gone with the 2000 degree ?
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Now the power core, has a issue. Looks like a cracked/ damage at the pipe to silencer connection. And someone attempted a JB weld repair at what time. which is no longer a valid repair.

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Now can I get this welded or try a JB weld again ?

I also have a DG pipe and silencer.

They are not damaged. I did paint the pipe, it was rusty. I sanded / light grind, before painting. no pic yet of that one.

Sporty
 
you should be able to grind out the old jb weld repair and re weld the broken pipe. maybe get a piece of exhaust pipe to replace a bad section if needed. good luck
and also the website for fmf sells just the flange needed for 30 bucks
 
The 500 degF engine paint might not last but at least it's easier to apply than the other stuff.

The silencer cracked is going to leak splooge but that's into the silencer body itself, it shouldn't affect performance....

Other than that, looks good.
 
My relative knows a good aluminuim welder. but that stuff is pretty thin, I might have him try to weld it or try JB weld, or just use the DG one.

I would have to take the packing out of it also, before he welds it, if he can.

Not a imediate concern, since I got a whole ton of work to do, before I get to those parts.
Thanks for the reply and comments.

Sporty
 
Take it as seen, if JB has fallen off before, it most certainly will fall off again.

There is no way that JB will butt weld, get it welded properly, before it breaks off completly.
 
I redid a pipe with the 2000 degree ceramic paint, it has held up very well, looks just like it did when I sprayed it. I did blast down to bare metal, do a rust kill treatment and cured the paint in an oven instead of on the bike.
 
I redid a pipe with the 2000 degree ceramic paint, it has held up very well, looks just like it did when I sprayed it. I did blast down to bare metal, do a rust kill treatment and cured the paint in an oven instead of on the bike.

I did not even think of using ceramic paint.

Got a pic and of the paint ? where to buy ?


Sporty
 
I think I took pictures but I must have been using my camera, they aren't on my phone. Here is the best pictures I can find showing the pipe.
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And here is the link to the paint.
VHT Paint SP106 - Ceramic Coating | O'Reilly Auto Parts
The paint gives the options of oven curing or "on the bike" curing. I used the oven option, which was 30 minutes at 250 degrees, cool for 30 minutes, 30 minutes at 400 degrees, cool for 30 minutes and 30 minutes at 650 degrees for final cure. I don't think it would have reached those temps on the bike, so I'm don't know how it would do with the "on the bike" curing option. Also, my prep work....I blaster to bare metal, then did a rust kill treatment, blasted again and then removed the moisture with a torch. It looks as good now as it did the day I painted it, with no sign of the rust coming back.