Hello guys, I'm new to the forum but have been reading them since I've had my first blaster but now I have a question. So my top end blew up due to my stator side crankseal going bad, my piston blew up to peices, leaving the front of my cases cracked as well. So far I ordered, a new too end, wiesco crankshaft, and a set of cases off Ebay that are in pretty good looking shape. This is my first time splitting a case on a motor I understand how most of the motor comes apart and goes together, but like I said I've never split a case on any of my blaster I would just like to know in more detail where I should start with taking everything out of my transmission and putting into a new case side by side. Post diagrams or pages from manual if possible. Thank you!!
First time swapping case
- Thread starter Cjleh757
- Start date
This could be the best $22 you'll ever spend, every part, detail, and tip is covered for a complete blaster engine rebuild
http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/ns/videos
http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/ns/videos
Thanks for the link to that, from ur experience is the blaster transmission and shift forks easy to place into another case, II'd be able to test the shifting with everything in the one side of the case before I assemble right? What are some common problems people run into when reassembly the transmission?.
Update: ordered threebond and a tusk crank installer.
pull each shaft with gears on them out as one assembly each and set them aside (or in your case set them right into the new case where it came from the old one)
watch where the shift forks go and the number/letter of each (the video shows this and is very important to get them back exactly where they came from)
you cannot bench test the shifting until it is fully assembled with both case halves bolted together and you rotate the assembly with the output shaft/sprocket, these things do not like to shift without the whole assembly rotating as it would while running, even then I and others have had them only shift up to 3rd but when installed and running be just fine.
the washers under the clutch basket MUST go back in exactly as taken out, and the kick start assembly and it's clip positions < common mistakes
again the video is invaluable here
use a plumbers flux brush to spread the thin coat of threebond
watch where the shift forks go and the number/letter of each (the video shows this and is very important to get them back exactly where they came from)
you cannot bench test the shifting until it is fully assembled with both case halves bolted together and you rotate the assembly with the output shaft/sprocket, these things do not like to shift without the whole assembly rotating as it would while running, even then I and others have had them only shift up to 3rd but when installed and running be just fine.
the washers under the clutch basket MUST go back in exactly as taken out, and the kick start assembly and it's clip positions < common mistakes
again the video is invaluable here
use a plumbers flux brush to spread the thin coat of threebond
Thanks for the walk thrue I ended up not getting the cases on ebay but cam across a guy that is selling a whole rebuild bottom end with a wiseco crank for 250 couldent pass it up evan if I just use the cases! I'll post how it all goes togather. Thank you
