first rebuild process

shok47

New Member
Apr 5, 2009
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Alright guys, I posted here awhile ago about my blaster needing a bore. I got it done for $45, and chamfered the points myself. So I had everything off, and when i went back together pretty straight forward.
-I cleaned the surfaces very well
-installed the roller bearing (forgot to put some lube!)
-put the piston, clips and rod through and had the arrow facing forward
-lined up the rings on the notches and put on the cylinder W/ gasket, tighten.
-put on the copper gasket and tightened up the top end.
-attached the exhaust (with new oring gasket), tank, and carb.

So everything is together but I think I didnt have oil in the engine when starting it. Should the level be visible when looking down the fill hole? I had it run for maybe 5 minutes on and off, never even opened it . THOUGH I keep hearing a knock. (sign of no case oil I guess?)

I had my brother pull me and I popped the clutch to start it. I popped it a few times after some stalls. Finally I gave up and thought there must be something wrong. When I stopped I saw some smoke near the cylinder:o

I just got upset from that and came to work...

SO
Oil level? probably have none, so it caused knocking and that bit of smoke? It ran it with the automatic mixing setup of gas and oil and I did see blue smoke.
 
the oil in the bottom end is for the trans. it should be about halfway up on the sight glass. are you sure you got all the nuts tight around the head and the base of the jug?
 
Could you explain what the jug is?? Should I run the mix myself by or rely on the system? The tank was rarely ever filled but it ran great and the level was good

Pretty sure I got them all tight. What is the torque spec? In the manual it says 20ft/lb for cylinder head and 18 for cylinder. I dont have a torque wrench that can fit but I am sure I got 20+ on there with a wrench
 
Q: Could you explain what the jug is??

A: The jug is the cylinder part.

Q: Should I run the mix myself by or rely on the system?

A: I would deff run an oil block off and pre mix it yourself. 32:1 is the mix ratio.

Q: Pretty sure I got them all tight. What is the torque spec? In the manual it says 20ft/lb for cylinder head and 18 for cylinder. I dont have a torque wrench that can fit but I am sure I got 20+ on there with a wrench

A: I would deff try to get a torque wrench and torque the top end to specs. There is also a certain pattern that you torque it to. The pattern is in the maual.
Maybe you can go to Auto Zone and see if a torque wrench is in there tool rental program. They let you rent tools, and when you return the tool they give your money back.


The tank was rarely ever filled but it ran great and the level was good

If your talking about the oil injection tank at the back of the bike that holds the oil and the level being good but it was rarely ever filled prob means that its not injecting the oil in. If its not injecting oil than thats a bad thing.

Also since you rebuilt the top end there is a certain break in procedure that you should follow. To ensure that the motor is going to last you.

Hope this helps you...I:I
 
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The jug is the cylinder the thing the spark plug goes into is the head.

As for torque specs they are crusial in a motor. I would suggest you go get a torque wrench and do it right. If you over or unevenly torque the bolts you could crush the gaskets and they will be no good and cause an airleak.

You should also run premix at 32:1 and delete the oil injection........
 
Good news is the jug was just below spec 20lb. All were around 14lb. Is the correct torque spec 20lb? I understand the criss cross pattern for tightening bolts so I got that down. What is the torque spec for the cylinder to the bottom end? Is it 18lb??


Weird news is I saw that the oil line from the rezzy going into the bottom end???? Shouldnt it go to the carb or near there??

I put in 1 full bottle of yamalube. Too much?
 
Mine had a cracked left side case that leaked tranny oil. I tried to keep it full but at one time I forgot to add some before a ride. I let it warm up as always, but when I took off down the road, it started to knock and lose power. Put oil in the tranny amd everything was good. The line from the oil rezzy is going to the oil pump which is in the bottom end. Regardless, I would start premixing 4oz of oil per gallon. You can take the gear off of the pump and take the lines off. You don't need to buy a block off kit.
 
cap off the oil line going into the carb. sitting on the quad it is on the right hand side. next to the vent line. there are two vent lines on your carb. one on each side the hoses are very short usually cut off right below the carb. the oil line going into the carb on the right is alot smaller looking but cap that off. then use premix. 8 ounces of your choice of two stroke oil perferably yamalube or klotz or belray name brand stuff. then take the gear off of the oil pump. you have to take off the clutch cover to get to it. its a white plastic gear that can strip out.
 
Alright, so i got it all torqued and gas mixed. I cannot get it to idle. Feels like when I choke it and kick it over, it will fill up the bowl or line, then once the gas is used up, it dies. I can rev it but after awhile it just dies. Im assume the idle mixture screw??
 
checked the float, it was measured at the right height. I also took off the carb and gave it a cleaning. I took out all the jets, needles, main nozzle, choke, etc, and cleaned it. There was some dirt/mud residue in the choke chamber, and some dirt around the main nozzle. I also noticed that one of the reed vavles has a big hole in it, taking off about 1/2 of one of the 4 flaps.

Could the reed be the problem??? The needle and seat where recently replaced as well.

Anything else to check/clean before putting back together?